3D Systems CUBE 3D printer, Repair attempt, (no heating)

[HighVoltage]

Some devices  need older small capacity USB sticks. Modern large capacity sticks cause them problems.
Try one that is less than 512MB.

Aurora

Thanks, I will do that this coming weekend.
It is a surprise that a modern machine would have this limitation.

[HighVoltage]

Your a good and very honourable man Ian, never doubt it 

Aurora

+1
I have the highest respect for Ian, always perfect transactions.

[Fraser]

@Highvoltage,

I agree on the USB stick compatibility. The machine should cope with anything, but it potentially has a firmware issue. The Rigol 1052E and many other DSO's are fussy about USB stick size and chipset. Weird but true. Remember their comment on the Wi-Fi compatibility....that should not be an issue on modern equipment either.

I presume you have trawled the NET to see if a user group or other forums comment on similar issues. As you likely know, sometimes the user community offer better help than a the OEM customer support staff.

Your machine has a 'OEM only' locked down filament cartridge and I suspect hacked firmware will exist to overcome this..... It may be worth trying some 'improved' community sourced firmware ?

This hurdle will hopefully be overcome when you have more time to study the issue and possible options. Hope it works out for you.

Aurora

[amyk]

So I restarted and suddenly it is asking me for an activation code
Since this printer was registered before, it complains during the registration, that this serial number has been activated before
Interesting world, in which we have to activate a standard hardware printer.

3D printer manufacturers are obviously trying the same profit-extracting tricks as 2D ones. If I were you, that would probably be the next thing I'd "fix"... After all, the full firmware is available.

Then again, I'm probably one of the few who enjoy carefully tracing through code...

[soso]

Hello eveyone

 I have one of these 3d systems cubify, and it was given to me by a friend because he know I like to fix broken things, the only problem is the hotend and extruder is dead.. I've seen a video of this same printer with a different hotend and extruder, from another printer.. maybe it was the mk8 not sure..  My question is can I used the parts for the broken 3d systems printer, to make a working 3d printer?  or are the parts married to the mobo of this printer??
Thanks guys

[Mechatrommer]

My question is can I used the parts for the broken 3d systems printer, to make a working 3d printer?  or are the parts married to the mobo of this printer??

goto reprap forum and you'll be surprised how one printer maybe the reincarnation of another osshw printer. in fact if not because of stratasys "heated chamber" patent, everything will become stratasys alike... the simple answer is yes..

[HighVoltage]

My question is can I used the parts for the broken 3d systems printer, to make a working 3d printer?

For sure that should be possible.

BTW, I gave up on the repair, since nothing worked. No matter what USB stick I tried and no matter what format, the files could not be loaded. The CUBE service people were very helpful but at the end they also had no answers.
Well, I gave the printer to a friend and he is now using some parts to make his own printer.

[soso]

Thanks for the reply,, 

 I was thinking of getting ramps 1.4 and using the cubify motors and frame, maybe it will work, it will be fun to try..

[janoc]

I would chuck the crappy proprietary controller and put a proven board with open source firmware in it, ideally something supported by the RepRap project. Then you will get rid of the proprietary filament requirement as well.

The mechanics is likely sound and that is the largest cost of any 3D printer anyway.

[HighVoltage]

and put a proven board with open source firmware in it, ideally something supported by the RepRap project.

You have any suggestion of what would be a "proven" board?

[janoc]

There are plenty of those - e.g. the mentioned RAMPS, those are the most common on the cheap printers like the Prusa derivatives. Then there is Melzi (essentially RAMPS, just all on a single board, not an Arduino shield with the stepper drivers in sockets), Sanguinololu.  There are some ARM-based boards too. My Mendel90 is running on a Melzi and no issues with it so far.

Here is a good list:
http://reprap.org/wiki/List_of_electronics

[cancian123]

Hi Guys!
I also have a Cube 2nd generation, and its extruder is not heating because the heating element is shorted.
Does any of you know what kind of wire is used as the heating element of the extruder?
 I would like to replace it. I have already sent an email to Cubify, but they are not willing to help me. They want me to buy a new printer.


Thanks a lot.

[janoc]

Hi Guys!
I also have a Cube 2nd generation, and its extruder is not heating because the heating element is shorted.
Does any of you know what kind of wire is used as the heating element of the extruder?
 I would like to replace it. I have already sent an email to Cubify, but they are not willing to help me. They want me to buy a new printer.


Thanks a lot.

If you want someone to help you:

a) Don't necropost (you have replied to my comment from 2016!)
b) Don't hijack an unrelated topic - make your own fresh post!

[HighVoltage]

Hi Guys!
I also have a Cube 2nd generation, and its extruder is not heating because the heating element is shorted.
Does any of you know what kind of wire is used as the heating element of the extruder?
 I would like to replace it. I have already sent an email to Cubify, but they are not willing to help me. They want me to buy a new printer.


Thanks a lot.

Hello cancian123

Your problem should be fixable.
Can you take the heating element apart and take some pictures.
Maybe you can extract the size of the wire and estimate the diameter and length.

[cancian123]

If you want someone to help you:

a) Don't necropost (you have replied to my comment from 2016!)
b) Don't hijack an unrelated topic - make your own fresh post!

Thanks you for the tips. That was really helpful.

[cancian123]

Hello cancian123

Your problem should be fixable.
Can you take the heating element apart and take some pictures.
Maybe you can extract the size of the wire and estimate the diameter and length.

Hi HighVoltage!
I don`t have the heating element anymore. the only thing I can tell you is that it looks like a copper wire with some kind of fiberglass insulation aorund it. I never found out what type of wire it really is. I have been looking for it for a long time.
I also know that the resitance of the wire is around 28 Ohms and the Voltage applied by the printer is a PWM of 24 volts, which results in approximately 20watts of power

Thanks for your help!