Author Topic: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair  (Read 5005 times)

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Offline Max1636Topic starter

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90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« on: July 17, 2021, 07:13:14 am »
I have a Delta DPS-300EB Rev. A Power supply for an Apple Network Server 500/132 that's currently not working, I'd really appreciate any help that could be provided by some of the experts on here as I've given up on Facebook groups. As far as I can tell there are no schematics for this unit and even searching the Delta or Apple part numbers give almost no information.

So when I first received the power supply it would instantly blow the internal 8A fuse. I replaced the main bridge rectifier as I found it to be faulty, after powering up again the NTC thermistor blew up, so I replaced it and powered the PSU up only have the same thing happen again unsurprisingly (Dave Doh!). I then discovered a triac with all 3 pins shorted which I replaced. The PSU would now no longer blow the fuse and is generating 165v DC X2 at the main caps to make the 330v DC.

However all is still not well, like most PC power supplies I believe this PSU should be generating a 5v standby voltage which it's not doing. I'm suspicious that the reason could be due to a small board near the main caps that I think supplies the 5v standby board. (Update: I don’t believe this board is the issue and it doesn’t support the 5v standby board) This board gets its own Active and Neutral supply and has its own rectifying circuit that makes 330v DC also but no voltage seems to get out of the board. With my limited testing tools I've tried to get all the components on the board but I can't find the fault.

I'll add photos of the board and again would really appreciate any help with this, TIA.

FYI the blue wires on the board were just temporary for testing.
« Last Edit: July 19, 2021, 01:43:08 am by Max1636 »
 

Offline trondl

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2021, 12:14:32 pm »
I just chime in here to say that I also have an ANS 700/150 with a secondary faulty psu.
The first psu is still ok, although I have problems installing AIX 4.1.5 which is unrelated (linux and AIX 4.1.4.1 installs without issue).
It’s probably the last surviving unit here in Norway.
If you happen to have access to the last AIX patches for 4.1.5 I’ m interrested!
 

Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2021, 12:40:50 pm »
If you ever decide to take your second PSU apart please let me know. I’ve never had my ANS working. Very cool to hear you have a 700.
 

Offline LateLesley

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2021, 12:49:15 pm »
Not a PSU expert by any means - but I have repaired a few in my day. One thing I've learned, is suspect every resistor, I've found these overlooked components can tend to burn up and go high resistance quite easily.

Looking at that wee suspect board, where you've marked the voltages, it looks like a resistor chain to drop the voltage, before the active stuff. Where you are jumping from 118V to 0.7V, that's a big jump, and would make me suspicious of two parts. one is that resistor R815, and also that IC801. It looks like R803, R816, and R815 are just dropping the voltage down at each step, So I would check  they are at their correct values (or close). They usually use multiple surface mount resistors, to keep them within voltage and power requirements due to their small size. But they can burn up pretty easily. Also, the 0.7V seems like a pretty specific diode drop voltage, which also has me thinking IC801 could have shorted internally.

So i'd be measuring those resistors, and pulling IC801 to see what it is, and test it out of circuit, to verify it's ok. Don't just think, if the resistor is open, that you've found the culprit - it could be IC801 died, and burned up the resistor. It may be just a resistor, but try and verify the rest first.
 

Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #4 on: July 18, 2021, 04:55:16 am »
Thanks or the help, I had the same thought and tested the voltage with IC801 removed which ends up being about 3.8V. For a minute I thought I was onto something but I replaced IC801 and end up with exactly the same voltage. I’ve attached photos of the original unit on the left and the replacement on the right.

R804 reads about 10k in circuit which is correct according to an online calculator.
 

Online xavier60

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #5 on: July 18, 2021, 10:42:22 am »
Referring to neutral as ground, If the TL431's Cathode is shorted to ground, the Reference pin will look like a forward biased diode to ground.
I think the circuit's function as a Under Voltage Lock Out.
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Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #6 on: July 18, 2021, 10:50:40 am »
Thanks for the help, I will test this tomorrow. Are you saying the whole board might be a low voltage lockout or just the TL431 part?
 

Online xavier60

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #7 on: July 18, 2021, 11:14:04 am »
Thanks for the help, I will test this tomorrow. Are you saying the whole board might be a low voltage lockout or just the TL431 part?
I'd say the whole board either allows the control circuit to operate or supplies start power somehow. I can see the rectifier diode charging the larger capacitor but not what it's suppling power to.
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Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2021, 11:19:39 am »
Please let me know if there’s any other photos I can add that help. You can see that extra board top left in the photo. Thanks for your help so far.
 

Online xavier60

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2021, 12:01:14 pm »
It's an auto mains voltage selector. When It thinks that the mains voltage is low, it turns on the triac which converts the bridge and split reservoir caps into a voltage doubler.
I have seen these auto voltage selectors get it wrong and blow up the PSU. Best is to disable it by removing the triac.
When repairing SMPS, I never directly apply mains on the first test because if problems have been missed, a lot of extra damage can be caused. It should at least be powered through a series light bulb.
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Online xavier60

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2021, 12:16:20 pm »
I see there are 2 triacs. Remove the upper one that has the black line to its Gate. The other is for anti-surge.
What are the row of 10 pins in the middle of the last photo for?
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Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #11 on: July 18, 2021, 12:31:23 pm »
Thanks allot for the information, this is the most help I’ve got since I first started my attempted repair. So I will remove the triac at the top left, is this only so that the circuit doesn’t get the voltage wrong and damage something?

Did you notice on the small board that one of the pins that I marked ‘G’ connects to that triac? Fairly sure to it’s gate pin. Could you explain why that is?

I have heard about using a light bulb but I didn’t completely understand how to do that? As I said the power supply seems to be somewhat working now as I have 165v at each main cap connected in series to make 330v DC.

The 10 pins connect to another kind of control board, I will get a good photo tomorrow. I will attach a photo that might help a bit though.
 

Online xavier60

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2021, 01:05:15 pm »
Thanks allot for the information, this is the most help I’ve got since I first started my attempted repair. So I will remove the triac at the top left, is this only so that the circuit doesn’t get the voltage wrong and damage something?

Did you notice on the small board that one of the pins that I marked ‘G’ connects to that triac? Fairly sure to it’s gate pin. Could you explain why that is?

I have heard about using a light bulb but I didn’t completely understand how to do that? As I said the power supply seems to be somewhat working now as I have 165v at each main cap connected in series to make 330v DC.

The 10 pins connect to another kind of control board, I will get a good photo tomorrow. I will attach a photo that might help a bit though.
A rail from the control supply comes in on an end pin to R805. Current can flow out of the other end pin to the triac's Gate. There are 2 transistors that are able to shunt this current to ground. One is controlled by the TL431 and the other starts of as always normally on, then can be turn off by a another voltage sensing circuit, a transistor and Zener diode sensing the mains derived voltage on the smaller capacitor.
This explains the rest, https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/479800/why-do-some-smps-power-supplies-require-an-input-voltage-select-switch
I suspect that the control supply has been damaged.
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Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2021, 01:19:40 pm »
Great thanks this gives me something to work with. This whole time I thought that small board should of been generating voltage because it had an A and N but those pins are only for sensing the voltage then right?

I believe the control voltage is generated by the board over to the right, I attached a photo which shows a line that connects the two. That board also has a 330v DC pin which I marked. I will look more closely at the board tomorrow, thanks again!
 

Online xavier60

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #14 on: July 19, 2021, 02:47:12 am »
 R50 appears to be 1Ω from here, not that it matters, it appears to be acting as a fuse on the HVDC.
Hopefully only the TOP200Y has broken down and the main SMPS is undamaged. Assuming that the auto voltage selector is the original problem cause.
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Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #15 on: July 19, 2021, 02:53:04 am »
Sorry for the confusion I deleted a previous message because that small yellow capacitor actually isn’t blown. The black soot actually came from the 2 main MOV’s that had previously blown but I’ve now replaced.

Still confused with that resistor though because even though I’m not reading anything between the 2 legs it seems to be passing voltage just fine.

Would it help if I told you what voltages I have on the TOP200YAI?
 

Online xavier60

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #16 on: July 19, 2021, 02:54:40 am »
Yes, I'll be back,
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Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #17 on: July 19, 2021, 03:02:17 am »
So on the right pin (Pin 3 I assume) I have 300v DC, although it’s strange it seems to sometimes be 330v DC but maybe it’s just not a great connection with my leads.

If I then put my positive lead on the 330v pin on the board then put my negative lead on pin 1 and 2 I get 330v DC. But from the looks of it that middle pin is connected to ground anyway so that makes sense there.

Hmm.. So with power off and measuring between pin 1 and 2 I have about 4.8Ohm. That doesn’t seem right does it?

Update: Out of circuit I’m still getting 4.8Ohm between the control and source pins. (The left and middle pin).
« Last Edit: July 19, 2021, 03:16:49 am by Max1636 »
 

Offline T3sl4co1l

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #18 on: July 19, 2021, 04:23:41 am »
Aha, a smoking, erm, smoked gun!

Is that R50 with a fuckin' hole blown out its side?

Ceramics are very uncommon to fail; can happen, but not primary suspects.  (On leads anyway.  Can be more suspicious for SMT chips, can crack due to board flex/vibration.  But still not the first thing.)  The one there just looks like its paint has peeled off.  But if it's actually dead yeah that's definitely something.

Missing aux, that TOP200 is your prime suspect.  Small, tall transformer, off to the side, with whatever reg/controller is on it.

Mid 90s I'm surprised they splurged for a regulator like that at all (wait, how old is the TOPSwitch family anyway? I didn't know they were around back then.. Aha, introduced '94, cutting edge technology it was!), mostly they used a single BJT blocking oscillator with zener regulation.  Such circuits are most common in AT/X PSUs, and VCRs and other consumer video equipment for some reason (and also, semifamously, Apple ]['s).


Troubleshooting, in general: maybe you realize this now, maybe it bears noting, maybe others will find it useful --
1. 9/10 times, replacing the fuse just begets another blown fuse.  Don't be a fool.  Something caused that fuse to blow!  Ohm it out.

The remaining 1/10 times, maybe it died on its own (thermal cycling/fatigue, just a shoddy part, or failed due to mains surge, who knows?), and replacing the fuse is actually all that's needed.  Very suspicious, and a bit spooky to be honest.

2. Switching supplies all have very typical designs; you have to learn a bit, but once you get the idea you can follow along just reading the board.  In this case, to wit (referring to https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/90s-delta-power-supply-repair/?action=dlattach;attach=1237205;image ):

Mains input: top right.  I see a ground lug with ferrite bead, smaller (5x20mm?) fuse, a couple chokes and caps.  Looks to be two common mode chokes (two windings, same direction), and one differential mode (with a yellow/white core I'm guessing?).  Two boxy caps are X1 (across-the-line) film type, and the blue discs (sometimes other colors) are Y1 (line-to-ground) ceramic.

Top left: rectifier, main filter, and some startup stuff I guess.  I haven't traced the circuit on the little riser board but I'm guessing it's related to either aux startup / bias, or precharge/NTC bypass timing circuit.  The main FWB would be on that heatsink (on the inside I guess, can see just an edge of it here?), but there's also a TO-220.  I don't see a resistor or NTC so I'm guessing there's one just out of view, and what happens is, some moment after power-on (either by a fixed time, or by the main DC supply voltage coming up to near nominal), the TRIAC is turned on, bypassing the resistor and supplying full mains to the circuit.

So, we have our first potential points of failure.  If the DC bus doesn't come up, the TRIAC turns on into a hard short, of at least momentary nature due to the capacitors (which it might grunt at but still be able to handle?), but if it's fully shorted out then the whole thing is just toast, and the mains fuse must blow to clear it.  Note that this won't happen if the startup circuit monitors DC bus; it'll never pull in.  In that case, the resistor burns out, because it's dropping full mains power for, like, whole seconds or minutes even, however long it takes to melt, when it was only designed to endure that for a hundred milliseconds!

SCRs and TRIACs are pretty robust devices, enough that they can often survive blowing a fuse, though it usually has to be a special very-fast-blow type ("semiconductor" fuse, so named because of what it can protect -- not what it's made of, if you were wondering :) ).  Rectifiers (the FWB) are usually a bit more robust in turn, though not so much to avoid the same requirement.  That said, I have seen plenty of rectifiers which survived, not only blowing a cartridge fuse, but a whole fucking panel breaker -- these do not open quickly, and a residential circuit probably supplies one or two thousand amperes for a cycle or two, before opening.  (The breaker has a magnetic loop that opens it much quicker under sudden fault like this, in contrast to the slow thermal (bimetallic strip) mechanism that opens in seconds to minutes.)

Another option for the TRIAC, is automatic mains voltage selection.  I don't see a connector on here for a "120/240" switch; it may be just out of view, or jumpered over, but this is another application where a TRIAC can be used.  (Which might explain the lack of startup resistor/NTC and so it doesn't actually have inrush limiting.)  The function is most likely something like: when total supply voltage is low (under say 200-250V), and after some delay (to allow for initial startup time), turn on the TRIAC, which is connected between neutral and capacitor midpoint.  This turns the FWB into a FW doubler, and now you get the full ~340VDC from a 120V input.

[Double checking with the underside view, that's exactly what it is, auto voltage setting.]

[Looking at the output side now, but noticing things about the primary side traces.  There are both!  That must be an NTC under the FWB heatsink, and it's bypassed by another TRIAC on the inverter heatsink; and powered by an aux winding on the power transformer itself -- so it's only turned on in normal operation.  Crazy!]

[And, it looks like the fly leads off the transformer, aren't a thermistor at all.  They look to just dead end, actually... weird.  Ah, but I haven't gotten to thermistors yet...]

In any case, the big electrolytics get charged, and on to the inverter.  The upper-middle heatsink ought to have 2 or 4 transistors on it, probably BJT for this age.  Looks like there's some kind of controller board to the right, or control circuitry on board.  TL494, SG3524 and KA7500 (and a couple older ones I don't remember) were typical at the time, making this a voltage-mode full-wave forward converter.

Further to the right, there's orange wires for a thermistor on the heatsink, and I think a few others -- looks like there's one in the transformer itself, nice, and one on the bottom left heatsink too.  These are probably read by a jellybean comparator (or op-amp being used as same -- LM339 and 324 are common sights), along with other status signals like aux voltage or DC bus, to implement UVLO, OVLO (under/over voltage lockout), overtemp, overcurrent, etc.  Simply disabling the main controller as a consequence (either with a delayed auto-retry ("hiccup") or latching behavior).

On the far right, there looks to be three optos (6 pin DIPs).  One should be feedback for regulation, the other two may be for startup trigger or secondary side fault trigger (which would be where the secondary side thermistor tells the primary side to shut down).

Going back a bit to the left, the small green toroid with fine wire on it, is likely a current sense transformer.  I don't think anyone used current mode controls at this time (for shame), so this is probably just for overcurrent detect.  It may also have windings on it for drive power -- when using BJTs in inverters, it's handy to loop back some of the load current into the base drive circuits, so they hold themselves on; it's a latching circuit, and you actually drive it by turning off the transistors (shorting mode commutation, at the drive transformer).

Usually, such a transformer looks similar to the aux supply's tall, thin transformer; unless it's just out of view, it may well be a MOSFET based circuit.  Although I'm still not sure how they'd get high side drive in there.  Maybe a much smaller [gate drive] transformer.  Or it could be low-side drive, but that only works with push-pull, which requires very high voltages (double the DC bus, so, 800V+ devices would be mandatory!).

I don't think they had bootstrap gate drivers at the time?  Not sure when they were introduced.  That would be the modern solution though, just a drive IC and a pair of MOSFETs, easy peasy.  Oh, or, heh, I suppose there's an outside chance they made their own, a discrete bootstrap driver.  That'd be interesting.

[Okay, having looked at the layout a bit more, it's not full-wave anything at all(!) -- it actually looks to be one-switch forward converter, and I think there's an aux winding on there, but I don't think it's a freewheeling winding, or not just; this thing may very well be what's called an active-clamp forward converter.  I had thought those were a somewhat newer idea!  So then, I think there's a TO-247 or TO-3P main switch in the middle of the heatsink, and a TO-220 active-clamp switch nearer the transformer.  Also, this explains the, 0.022uF? film cap right there.]

Anyway, onward down a bit, the output transformer obviously.  And on the left, the aux supply board -- this will be a very typical (application circuit) flyback supply, with an air-gapped ferrite transformer, and it appears they used sinterglass (round blob) diodes with it.  Not sure what the other heatsink is, maybe a 7805?  The aux supply might be just +12V (or anything 8-20V would likely work for the main controllers) and regulated down for the motherboard's +5V standby (or whatever it uses).  Hm, at least, I would assume aux powers the main controller; I don't actually see a path for it.  It looks more like the TRIAC is triggered by it..!  Well, I don't see the diode, but I'm pretty sure there's one tucked away in there, maybe beside the TOP200 itself, and powering it as well as the main controls.

Continuing down from the main transformer: on the right we have a heatsink with rectifiers, probably for the nearby (yellow/white) choke, maybe on the order of say +12V at 10 or 20A?

Note that there are multiple outputs, so we expect multiple rectifiers and chokes, and many windings on the transformer.

Which, with only the one control, they can't all be regulated, independently; normally a weighted combination is taken, and that works good for uniform loads, but a heavier load on one channel will drag it down, while pushing the others up (cross regulation, "sausage effect").  There are solutions for this (e.g. mag amp used in ATX supply +3.3V) but I don't think they used any here, and probably they're just doing 5V and 12V or something like that and it's fine.

Anyway, there's a small heatsink in the middle, maybe a smaller supply, maybe negative, not sure.  Heatsink on the right is likely +5V output, maybe another +12 (for the second yellow/white choke)

BTW, yellow/white is the color code for Micrometals mix #26, a very lossy powdered iron, mu_r = 75.  It's cheap, and that's it.  It almost makes better resistors than inductors... but, just as electrolytic capacitors are rather lossy, if we use enough of 'em we kinda don't care.  The consequence here is, the inductance is relatively large, to keep ripple current low, and thus core losses.

The large inductance puts the filter roll-off at a few kHz.  Which means the control can only respond to load changes in some ~ms, and so relatively large capacitors are needed to keep the output impedance low.  Electrolytics of the day, also had somewhat more ESR than today, which is both a curse and a blessing -- it amounts to AC losses and lack of filtering (which is improved in turn by the little rod chokes, I think you'll find those are in series with the respective outputs, with caps to ground on either side), but the ESR puts a zero in the feedback loop (i.e., the sense voltage changes immediately, in proportion to a change in inverter or load current), which helps with stability.  Which is why, when the caps inevitably dry out (ESR rises, C falls), loop compensation can go south, and maybe just ripple increases, maybe it starts whining or hissing (oscillation).  And why, when replacing them, they should be replaced with comparable types -- using too low ESR is also likely to cause oscillation!

Anyway, on the far left there's a bigger choke with multiple windings, and I'm willing to bet there's an aux winding on there, rectified (and probably regulated, on the small heatsink to the left?) for whatever -5 / -12V the thing needs (usually not much?).  Not sure why red and gold, guessing they're just wired in parallel.  And that'll be for like, 5V 40A or something.

Oh, also with two fans and a few transistors around, the thermistor down there might be for controlling one or both, or for overall fault as mentioned earlier.  Could be both, staged (fan first, then fault).

One thing I have no idea about: the stranded (coarse litz?) chokes by the transformer.  Maybe, like, dI/dt snubbing or something?  Haven't seen that in anything else though.  Shouldn't be any power transistors nearby, nor any need for additional conversion or something.  Oh, or I wonder if they might be mag amp cores, for reverse recovery snubbing?  The 12V supplies might be using high speed rectifiers, they didn't have much schottky in higher voltages back then I think.  The 5V rectifiers (under the bigger heatsink) ought to be TO-3P or TO-247 schottky though.

Also, as an overall half-wave forward converter type, dual rectifiers are still likely in use -- one from GND to the choke (catch diode), one from secondary to choke (rectifier).

Tim
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Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #19 on: July 19, 2021, 04:55:23 am »
Wow thanks Tim, vey helpful explaining the operation of the supply. I’ll be sure to give that a read a few more times to help me understand. Regarding the repair, any idea where I could source a new TOP200YAI? Or a modern equivalent? Do you think it’s strange that it’s reading 4.8 Ohm between pin 1 and 2?

Any idea what kind of wattage that R50 resistor would be rated for? Regarding the resistance in circuit I seem to get 1.3M Ohms which seems wrong… As mentioned by others I believe it should be 1 Ohm correct?
 

Offline T3sl4co1l

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #20 on: July 19, 2021, 07:30:16 am »
Looks like TOP222 is still available. Higher power tho.

Pin 1 should be primary side control power, give or take if they put any filtering around it.  It may show resistance, but 4.8 ohms does suggest something is shorting it.

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Online xavier60

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #21 on: July 19, 2021, 08:16:39 am »
The blown MOVs adds to the likelihood that the auto voltage select was the initial cause of the PSU failure.
One mystery is the track under the main board that has been stressed by over current. The amount of damage to the 1Ω resistor doesn't match.
Although it looks like a common 0.5W metal film resistor and it actually might be, it should be something that's specified to safely function as a fuse, not possibly cause a fire.
 Using the data sheet for the TOP200Y, look for possibly damaged components associated with the control pin. 
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Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #22 on: July 19, 2021, 01:49:58 pm »
I did notice that track… Do you mean where you can see the exposed copper? I’ve ordered some TOP222YN chips from eBay of all places as they have local stock, could someone confirm that it’s a suitable replacement?

Also regarding the resistor would it be unsafe to use a 1 Watt, 1 Ohm resistor from Jaycar? If not I will try to find out what the wattage value is.
 

Online xavier60

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #23 on: July 19, 2021, 04:28:00 pm »
I did notice that track… Do you mean where you can see the exposed copper? I’ve ordered some TOP222YN chips from eBay of all places as they have local stock, could someone confirm that it’s a suitable replacement?

Also regarding the resistor would it be unsafe to use a 1 Watt, 1 Ohm resistor from Jaycar? If not I will try to find out what the wattage value is.
Yes, where the exposed copper is showing.
You could use the resistor from Jaycar but its reaction to an over current event is not known. Ok for a test.
These would be a safer choice although I cant be fully certain, https://au.element14.com/vishay/nfr25h0001008ja500/res-1r-5-500mw-axial-metal-film/dp/9474048?st=nfr25h
With parts purchased on ebay, expect trouble. First have a close look for signs that the device markings have been altered.
I have had PI parts where a propotion just don't work and the rest work fine.
The TOP222YN appears to be a drop in replacement for the TOP200YN.
« Last Edit: July 20, 2021, 03:00:11 am by xavier60 »
HP 54645A dso, Fluke 87V dmm,  Agilent U8002A psu,  FY6600 function gen,  Brymen BM857S, HAKKO FM-204, New! HAKKO FX-971.
 

Offline Max1636Topic starter

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Re: 90's Delta Power Supply Repair
« Reply #24 on: July 24, 2021, 03:19:33 am »
Progress! So all I’ve done is replaced the TOP222YN which has got us closer. However it did fry that small 0.5w resistor at R50 so clearly something is shorted elsewhere. Even after this though I still read 5v at the TOP222YN.

Curiously also with my meter on DC volts I have 155v at the small board to the left that some here have thought is an automatic voltage selector, I also have 155v to the gate pin of the triac that it controls which I removed upon recommendation, does this mean that triac being in place could of destroyed the PSU again?
 


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