You should ask on the Tek mailing list, TekScopes on groups.io. Make sure you read the manual thoroughly *before* working on the attenuators. Do *NOT* spray them with tuner cleaner.
Reed Dickinson is on the groups.io list and refurbishes Tek scopes and sells them on eBay. He can advise on retensioning and cleaning contacts. Closing the switch on a piece of bond paper and pulling it through is a safe method and 99% isopropyl a safe solvent.
If the scope has been in a humid climate the transistor leads tend to corrode in the sockets. They often need to be wiggled a bit, i.e. pull almost out and push back in a couple of times.
I had a delay line fault on mine. When I went to resolder a resistor it fell completely out of the board on to the bench.
The retired Tek service guy I went to for advice before starting on repairs on mine clapped his hands against the opposite sides of the scope and beat on the edge of the frame with a small piece of broom handle or such to check for intermittent connections of which I had many. But it also verified that the scope was basically functional except for a dozen or so broken solder joints and other intermittent connections.
You will probably find more faults when you go through the full calibration procedure. I highly recommend getting one of Leo's 40 pS pulsers from leobodnar.com. I'd offer you a Tek 106, but shipping would probably be prohibitive and it would probably need TLC. I'm in central Arkansas, USA.
A cracked solder joint in the vertical amplifier signal path would make contact once it warmed up a bit. So that's a high probability explanation. Identify the signal path for CH2 and gently flex the board with a bamboo chopstick or similar while it is in the flat line state. That will verify the cracked solder joint hypothesis.