EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Repair => Topic started by: Bondguy on November 16, 2016, 09:21:18 pm
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I have Asus Transformer TF300 tablet where digitizer( touch screen) does not work. More digitizers were tested yet none worked.
So I guess it is a problem on mainboard. The digitizer does not have any Touch Controller on its flat cable so I think there must be one on the tablet mainboard. That touch controller can be faulty but also paths to the digitizer or there can be any other reason why the touch screen does not work.
Can anyone suggest a procedure how to try to repair that problem? Thank you for your advice.
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Check the power supply? But I suspect some smd electrolytic capacitors may have higher esr.Do you have esr meter to check in-circuit?
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i had this on a TF103, reflow the controller i.c.
can you post a foto with the rear cover removed?
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But I suspect some smd electrolytic capacitors may have higher esr.Do you have esr meter to check in-circuit?
except there is none.
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i had this on a TF103, reflow the controller i.c.
can you post a foto with the rear cover removed?
yep, if there are no signs of corrosion, likely you would need either replace or reball touch countroller IC. In small portable deices it is not uncommon solder balls coming off on mechanical impact. you could try pressing on it (starting doing so before powering on) and see if touchscreen starts to work.
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no need to replace or reball, just put flux under it and re-flow it.
it's a "flip-chip" package, and on the T103 is on a sub-board.
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no need to replace or reball, just put flux under it and re-flow it.
it's a "flip-chip" package, and on the T103 is on a sub-board.
Usually this does not help to make a solder joint again, as pad needs to be retinned before solder sticks to it again. Also IC may be underfilled.
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your talking theory's to somebody who has already done it.
there is no underfill on these, and no oxide issues - just cracked solder joints probably caused by flexing of the pcb with a long and thin chip on it.
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your talking theory's to somebody who has already done it.
there is no underfill on these, and no oxide issues - just cracked solder joints probably caused by flexing of the pcb with a long and thin chip on it.
You are talking with one who professionally repaired mobile phones for many years. The thing is, you are left with bare oxidized copper on one side and solder ball on other.
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it's not a fone - the chip is not that small.
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you are both correct :)
reflow, then reball if still broken