Thank you all for posting. Just a few comments about what I have done so far.
1.. To get the motor out I had to cut the two wires [later I realised it is possible to remove electronics and motor connecte]. Then very carefully applied mains via a 60W bulb [just in case] it ran at a guess at 60-80% full speed then removed the bulb and sounded just right at its usual very energetic rpm. Let it run for a minute or two.
2.. No it is not connected all the time, power lead removed as mains socket need for other appliances. If lead not removed power is turned off at the wall outlet.
3.. Dry joint, my first look was the soldering looks better than on the photos. When I inspected the suggested specific dry joint with my normal glasses and bench top magnifier I still thought it looked ok. I did however put on extra strong glasses and there was a clear but thin darker ring around the the wire. The wire is the leg of the yellow cap.
Trying to push on the cap I noticed the leg moved a fraction, ring got more obvious. So yes it is a dry joint no doubt. The motor torque certainly strong enough to shake the cap and wire.
My wife did say that if she shook the grinder it would run for a little while initially. When I asked for a demonstration it did not work for her but when I tried occasionally it would just kick alive.
Now it make sense even what has happened. My wife has a small hard plastic ball on the end of stick she likes to tapp the grinder firmly to shake the grounds free. That would have put stress on the capacitor the way it is mounted. I will resolder later today and check.
Will report back.