Datron 1062 and 1072

[maginnovision]

I'm considering picking these meters up and wanted to see what might be common problems(not sure if they even power on). There is some data out there about the 1062 but I can't find anything on the 1072.

[wn1fju]

Isn't the difference basically between 6-1/2 and 7-1/2 digits? 

You might download various Datron 1061 service manuals - they also describe the 1071.  The "2" models usually are just the thing with certain options
pre-installed (like ACV).

In my experience, things to look out for are 1) hot running power supplies (and therefore failures), 2) electrolytic capacitors on the main A/D board, and
3) the displays which are basically unobtainium if they go.

[coromonadalix]

Not sure  but search the threads here, a memeber did some search and hack / mods  for some datron ... 

[Kleinstein]

In some of the older meters the opto-couplers tend to fail. At least here replacements are usually still easy to get.

There is a search function here in the forum. the 1061 / 1071 should be the more common versions.

[DC1MC]

As Keinstein have already said, there are few treads dealing with Datrons DMM, the xxx2 versions are fully loaded with options variants, that originally had a reduced support time.
I'll just make a quick summary here of the most important mods:

- All electrolytic  and tantal capacitors have to be replaced, especially power supply, the two high voltage caps for display, along with the 6 elcos in line on the main analogue board in lower right corner for the bootstrab supply.
- On some models, a corrosive solder flux has been used, leading to some white-dust deep corrosion of the solder joints, especially on the 5V regulator pins along with the IC pins and sometimes even solder joints, if this is the case, inspect the boards carefully, and replace the solder joints and the wires if affected.
- If the device has bee used for a long time in a heated environment, the analogue board optocouplers may have lost some of their CTR, they are a bit sensitive to be replaced and DO NOT touch them, or switch their position, until you're sure that you've dealt with the capacitor issues above and the power supply voltages are in range and clean.
- Once the above are done, you can replace or reprogram  the 1062 EPROMS to bump it to 6,5 digits, see my related thread about going from 1061 to 1061A.

 Best of luck,
 DC1MC

[maginnovision]

Going to go check them out in a couple days. Offered $350 for both. They both pass self tests and displays are supposed to be good. I'll take my dmmcheck plus to see how they act. Replace caps and optos and hopefully they'll be good.

[Kleinstein]

Changing the optos can be a little tricky - so I would not do it unless really needed.

Changing the caps is different, as leaking caps or bad Ta caps can cause more and possibly serious damage. So here replacement can be a good idea before they are actually broken.

[maginnovision]

So I ended up with 3 good Datrons. 2 x 1062 and 1 x 1072. 1 not so good donor, but does seem to work well. No corrosion issues, not even on the TO packages. Need to find some Current boards, any suggestions where? My question though is... Does someone happen to have a list of what caps there are to replace? I'll do it tomorrow if not just tired so thought I'd ask. Also for people who have replaced optos, which did you use? I don't think they need replacement right now but might be good to have some on hand.

[DC1MC]

So I ended up with 3 good Datrons. 2 x 1062 and 1 x 1072. 1 not so good donor, but does seem to work well. No corrosion issues, not even on the TO packages. Need to find some Current boards, any suggestions where? My question though is... Does someone happen to have a list of what caps there are to replace? I'll do it tomorrow if not just tired so thought I'd ask. Also for people who have replaced optos, which did you use? I don't think they need replacement right now but might be good to have some on hand.

- Sell some of the good guys to buy more donors  , there's the only way to get Datron boards nowadays, or you can build your own, the current board it's not really complex  .

- The capacitors: ALL on the power supply, ESPECIALLY the 10u/250V one (me, as well as others, NEVER had one that it's not failed), having a clean power supply it's the first step for a good instrument. After you're sure that the PS it's in specs (values and ripple), on the top analogue board, there are in the bottom right 6 axial elcos, usually blue, there are for some kind of extra bootstrap power supply and they die like flies, EVERYBODY that posted a Datron thread here has found them dead on all of their devices.
Then the tantalums, I will start with the ones on the AC board, for some reason they die first (two confirmed cases), then the ones that are used for the relay coils and then the rest, some have been lucky on more recent models to have actual Kemets, but usually they are your hidden time bomb, generic teardrop shape.
In the end when you turn the beast belly up, there is another 10uF/250V axial elco on the display board, strangely enough most of the time it's way less dead and desiccated than the power supply one, but why risk ?

- The optocouplers: Do NOT touch them, do NOT change their position or your device is gone  , if you (after careful looking on the pins) consider that the pins are oxidized, ultra-carefully remove them, one at a time, and clean the pins.
In 99.5% the power supply and contacts are the cause of issues, the optos are matched by the manufacturer and except for units in really harsh environments, they should be left alone.


  Good luck, Datrons are really nice bests, too bad that you're in the US, Gremany need more of them .

 DC1MC

[maginnovision]

So I ended up with 3 good Datrons. 2 x 1062 and 1 x 1072. 1 not so good donor, but does seem to work well. No corrosion issues, not even on the TO packages. Need to find some Current boards, any suggestions where? My question though is... Does someone happen to have a list of what caps there are to replace? I'll do it tomorrow if not just tired so thought I'd ask. Also for people who have replaced optos, which did you use? I don't think they need replacement right now but might be good to have some on hand.

- Sell some of the good guys to buy more donors  , there's the only way to get Datron boards nowadays, or you can build your own, the current board it's not really complex  .

- The capacitors: ALL on the power supply, ESPECIALLY the 10u/250V one (me, as well as others, NEVER had one that it's not failed), having a clean power supply it's the first step for a good instrument. After you're sure that the PS it's in specs (values and ripple), on the top analogue board, there are in the bottom right 6 axial elcos, usually blue, there are for some kind of extra bootstrap power supply and they die like flies, EVERYBODY that posted a Datron thread here has found them dead on all of their devices.
Then the tantalums, I will start with the ones on the AC board, for some reason they die first (two confirmed cases), then the ones that are used for the relay coils and then the rest, some have been lucky on more recent models to have actual Kemets, but usually they are your hidden time bomb, generic teardrop shape.
In the end when you turn the beast belly up, there is another 10uF/250V axial elco on the display board, strangely enough most of the time it's way less dead and desiccated than the power supply one, but why risk ?

- The optocouplers: Do NOT touch them, do NOT change their position or your device is gone  , if you (after careful looking on the pins) consider that the pins are oxidized, ultra-carefully remove them, one at a time, and clean the pins.
In 99.5% the power supply and contacts are the cause of issues, the optos are matched by the manufacturer and except for units in really harsh environments, they should be left alone.


  Good luck, Datrons are really nice bests, too bad that you're in the US, Gremany need more of them .

 DC1MC

There is no corrosion anywhere to be found. Not even the donor which blew a tantalum. I may be able to get the donor going but the case was badly damaged and had no screws so I don't think I'll bother. At least one of these is going to be fixed up, properly calibrated, and given to my dad. I was pretty disappointed when I saw SO MANY DATRONS and no option 30's. Maybe you're right about making one, they weren't terribly accurate in that way anyhow so I can't mess it up much. Thanks for your help.