Dead Graphics card. 780TI. Dead Mosfet perhaps?

[cheeseit]

Mouser has free shipping if you buy for a certain amount, 330 DKK (ex. VAT) here. I can always find more stuff that I need/want and would rather get things for 150 than pay that for shipping. 2-3 business days shipping so you'd be able to continue troubleshooting soon.

[Sikator]

Mouser has free shipping if you buy for a certain amount, 330 DKK (ex. VAT) here. I can always find more stuff that I need/want and would rather get things for 150 than pay that for shipping. 2-3 business days shipping so you'd be able to continue troubleshooting soon.

Very interesting, I have been looking for a few things before tbh. As long as i can keep the total under 350NOK or ill have to pay my great country 150-300NOK in taxes.

Thank you!


EDIT: It will become way too expensive. if i don't find a better solution ill just order the fuse, its better than a dead gpu atleast.

[Sikator]

Thank you so much for your help guys, And especially you Rasz for sticking with me the past days, re-explaining everything 2-4 times and dumbing things down to my level  x) I really appreciate it 
I do however feel bad for the next guy to come around with a similar problem, having to read trough all of my useless readings. x)

I also learnt the measurements we did and how it tells me if the parts in question were good or bad during this.  ++


The parts are ordered and i will update on the results when I've got it all together!

[Rasz]

1. FUSE 2410 125V 10A AEM AF2-10.0V125TM

2. FUSE 2410 65V 15A AEM AF2-15.0V065TM

3. FUSE 2410 65V 15A AEM AF2-15.0V065TM


So im buying Nr 2/3 then.

those values ... are wrong   they are 980TI fuses Y and Q
https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/980jetstream.jpg
http://www.ixbt.com/video3/images/gm204-10/palit-gtx980-scan-front.jpg
while you have 780
https://3dnews.ru/assets/external/illustrations/2014/03/27/814253/12_pal78ti_pcb-pw_big.jpg (the one with smaller external connector and weaker fuse)
https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/Super-Jetstream-PCB_64821.jpg (yours)

but at least that person confirmed they are using AEM fuses. You will need AF2-12.0V065TM
I see you ordered wrong fuses already ;P
You can email Palit again with links to those pictures and ask if they are sure about the wrong info they just gave you.

edit: of course its no drama, 15A fuse will work fine, its just gonna fry more things if it wasnt only the fuse . Personally I would start with 8A fuse, or even lab supply on that rail and limited current.

[Sikator]

1. FUSE 2410 125V 10A AEM AF2-10.0V125TM

2. FUSE 2410 65V 15A AEM AF2-15.0V065TM

3. FUSE 2410 65V 15A AEM AF2-15.0V065TM


So im buying Nr 2/3 then.

those values ... are wrong   they are 980TI fuses Y and Q
https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/980jetstream.jpg
http://www.ixbt.com/video3/images/gm204-10/palit-gtx980-scan-front.jpg
while you have 780
https://3dnews.ru/assets/external/illustrations/2014/03/27/814253/12_pal78ti_pcb-pw_big.jpg (the one with smaller external connector and weaker fuse)
https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/upload/pictures/Super-Jetstream-PCB_64821.jpg (yours)

but at least that person confirmed they are using AEM fuses. You will need AF2-12.0V065TM
I see you ordered wrong fuses already ;P
You can email Palit again with links to those pictures and ask if they are sure about the wrong info they just gave you.

edit: of course its no drama, 15A fuse will work fine, its just gonna fry more things if it wasnt only the fuse . Personally I would start with 8A fuse, or even lab supply on that rail and limited current.

Wait what? They don't know what fuses they have on their own Gpu's?!
 

EDIT: I should've checked the damn sheet myself, obviously the technician at palit is completely wrong. What the actual.... The fuses are ordered and been processed.
Kind of dissapointed in Palit, with the S/N of my gpu they still can't find the right info. I guess now i don't have much choice. I sent a mail trying to fix it.

[Sikator]

those values ... are wrong   they are 980TI fuses Y and Q

Since the original fuse was 12A, what do you think of using the 10A, If this were to go wrong under heavy load then the 15A?
In theory it wont ask for too much power if i don't make it right?

Or.

The original fuse did withstand at least 140% power draw if remember correctly, it was at 200% it blew.

If that's the case, i could potentially use the 10A Until i can order another one which i might do in the future as i want to replace LED's on a G710+ and mouser had the ones i wanted for a decent price each.
Also i could turn down the power draw to 80-90% if i really should.


If i am a complete idiot with these thoughts please call me out xD

[Rasz]

Since the original fuse was 12A, what do you think of using the 10A, If this were to go wrong under heavy load then the 15A?
In theory it wont ask for too much power if i don't make it right?

Or.

The original fuse did withstand at least 140% power draw if remember correctly, it was at 200% it blew.

If that's the case, i could potentially use the 10A Until i can order another one which i might do in the future as i want to replace LED's on a G710+ and mouser had the ones i wanted for a decent price each.
Also i could turn down the power draw to 80-90% if i really should.

did you order 10A too? its fine as long as fuses cutoff is around 350-400W like in those 780TI from links above.
980TI needs 2x15A + 10A because stock card pulls up to 430W at peak
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-980-ti,4164-7.html

all in all its not that important, few amps here or there, if something fries there wont be much difference ;-)

[Sikator]

did you order 10A too? its fine as long as fuses cutoff is around 350-400W like in those 780TI from links above.
980TI needs 2x15A + 10A because stock card pulls up to 430W at peak
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nvidia-geforce-gtx-980-ti,4164-7.html

EDIT:
Hmm, thats Nominal Amperage and 12v under ohms law? if so thats 292W on the 10A's Nvm, only way i found near 350-400w on the fuse.


I just ordered 1x10A 2x15A, idk why really haha, they were just so freakin cheap. And i managed to get free shipping aswell 

Seems like im gud then, atleast so far. Next time i'll order from Mouser i will add them in anyways. 0.3-0.4$ is practically nothing.

[Sikator]

all in all its not that important, few amps here or there, if something fries there wont be much difference ;-)

When i come to think about this. Isn't there a big differance? 10A fuse blows 15A gpu blows? (Potentially)?

[Rasz]

there are only 2 situations I can think of that made fuse blow in the first place:
a/ removed limit let card pull >144W from that one rail, nothing mysterious here
b/ removed limit let card pull close to 144W which somehow glitched/fried controller/gate driver? getting transistor/s stuck low/pulling supply to ground, and they turned out stronger than fuse (50A per datasheet)

b wouldnt let the screen stay frozen even for a fraction of a second, if would go straight to no signal
frozen screen = parts of gpu still running until watchdog ticks and restarts driver/emergency shut downs computer.


there still might be something wrong in power sensing circuit, one step at a time

[Sikator]

there are only 2 situations I can think of that made fuse blow in the first place:
a/ removed limit let card pull >144W from that one rail, nothing mysterious here
b/ removed limit let card pull close to 144W which somehow glitched/fried controller/gate driver? getting transistor/s stuck low/pulling supply to ground, and they turned out stronger than fuse (50A per datasheet)

b wouldnt let the screen stay frozen even for a fraction of a second, if would go straight to no signal
frozen screen = parts of gpu still running until watchdog ticks and restarts driver/emergency shut downs computer.


there still might be something wrong in power sensing circuit, one step at a time

Ok new update.
I am now really frustrated...

First time nothing, no freakout, no picture. Nothing.

I took it out, on to the bench and thought for a bit. Then i decided to resolder the fuse to the board threw it in my pc again and IT WORKED! Everything worked. I restarted one time to get full resolution on and all my 3 monitors. It fucking worked. Temps were fine, Everything was in perfect order. Both in GPU-Z And MSI Afterburner!

So i thought hey why not reinstall drivers aswell since i've been using a really old card up until now. I opened driver sweeper. Clicked okey dokey on "Reboot to safe mode" And boom, the card is dead again...

I have restarted. Replugged the gpu and everything. No freakouts. Nothing. Cant install drivers "No compatible card detected" it's not recognized in GPU-Z. What the actual f is going on?! This was exactly how it acted before i resoldered the fuse. 






EDIT: I have managed to make it work 2  times now. I am currently on and installing drivers. It seems like the pci connection is extremely unreliable for some reason. It is clean, but i don't expect 100% for it to work after a restart. And last time it worked i said YES And started screwing the screw on the PCI Slot in to straighten the gpu and that made the screen black. First black screen while the pc was on. (This is why i think it's an issue with the PCI Slot)

This card is teasing me so hard right now....

[RGB255_0_0]

Before it's ruled as a hardware issue, have you tried on a clean installation? What size fuse did you install in the end?

[Sikator]

Before it's ruled as a hardware issue, have you tried on a clean installation? What size fuse did you install in the end?

Hey. Did not see your comment. I have edited it now. this is weird

[Sikator]

Before it's ruled as a hardware issue, have you tried on a clean installation? What size fuse did you install in the end?

I installed the 10A fuse.

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk

[Rasz]

whoa, slow down! you dont go straight on a race track after transmission swap

the first time it worked - was it working with proper nvidia driver or default windows universal VGA one?

look at your cards pcie connector close to metal bracket, are the first 5 pins charred on either side by any chance? look into te slot on the motherboard, also try the card in different slot

Its possible you also fried your motherboard PCIE is rated at 75W max from both 3.3+12 rails. Your card is fused at ~100W from 12v alone. Its possible when L13 fuse went card pulled 100W from PCIE connector and motherboard didnt like that.


edit: also dont do stupid things like trying over and over when its clearly not working, thats the definition of insanity.

its possible power resistor got compromised and card detects that after loading proper driver, there is a lot of things that can be semi bad, trying over and over can only make things worse

[Sikator]

whoa, slow down! you dont go straight on a race track after transmission swap

the first time it worked - was it working with proper nvidia driver or default windows universal VGA one?

look at your cards pcie connector close to metal bracket, are the first 5 pins charred on either side by any chance? look into te slot on the motherboard, also try the card in different slot

Its possible you also fried your motherboard PCIE is rated at 75W max from both 3.3+12 rails. Your card is fused at ~100W from 12v alone. Its possible when L13 fuse went card pulled 100W from PCIE connector and motherboard didnt like that.


edit: also dont do stupid things like trying over and over when its clearly not working, thats the definition of insanity.

its possible power resistor got compromised and card detects that after loading proper driver, there is a lot of things that can be semi bad, trying over and over can only make things worse

Hmm. I have changed to the 15A fuse. And i have had no problems what so ever for at least 30 mins by now. I've ran benchmarks and currently playing. waiting to see if something is going to happen.
It also doesn't seem sensitive to movement. Proper drivers installed and restarted a couple times without problems. So far so good.

To me this doesn't make too much sense? cause if it pulled over 10A it would've just blown the fuse right?
The only difference between the fuses "10A" and "15A" other than the amperage is that in Diode Mode on my multimeter the 10A gives 001, where the 15A gives 003 (003 like everything other fuse already on the board) if that makes any differance.






As of your questions.

First time it worked i think it went straight to windows universial. Low res etc. (Later tries that worked i have seen it show up as microsoft display adapter or something in GPU-Z (Cause i by then had uninstalled all drivers ofc)

Pci connector looks beautiful. and i did test again with my 560ti which gave no problems.

The only components that i still have from when the gpu died last year is CPU, RAM and PSU.

[Rasz]

Hmm. I have changed to the 15A fuse. And i have had no problems what so ever for at least 30 mins by now. I've ran benchmarks and currently playing. waiting to see if something is going to happen.

nice
my guess is bad soldering on the first fuse swap, glad its working now

[Sikator]

Hmm. I have changed to the 15A fuse. And i have had no problems what so ever for at least 30 mins by now. I've ran benchmarks and currently playing. waiting to see if something is going to happen.

nice
my guess is bad soldering on the first fuse swap, glad its working now

Can't look away from that possibility with this ape on the soldering iron 


Also should i worry with anything now that i am using a 15A fuse? Like overclocking.
I guess what i am wondering is if i should still get the 12A original fuse



I have never really payed attention to all of GPU-Z's sensor readings tho. You were mentioning amps and wattage etc. heres a pic from when i ran OCCT maxed.



EDIT: I have to maneuver some stuff around in my pc soon so i'll wait with a celebration until then. I still don't feel confident in it working after a restart etc x)

[Rasz]

>Can't look away from that possibility with this ape on the soldering iron

its >10 layer board, you need two strong soldering irons or beefy hotair. Im curious how you managed to solder it in the first place, not to mention remove the bad one :-)

I never used OCCT so dont know its profile.
GPU-Z perfcap shows UTIL = card is not loaded enough to throttle at all, weak load = you didnt hit performance limit.

try something like unigine, heavy game with vsync off or furmarm to really load it up and test properly
15A is fine, just make sure you have all the external power connected (including those 1x2 plugs). As a bonus you can probably bump power limit again ;-) but stick to something sane like 120%

[RGB255_0_0]

Only run Furmark if you're sure your GPU/VRMs can handle it. So I'd stick to Heaven or Firestrike. But other than that, I'd avoid modded BIOS for voltage and power target

[Sikator]

>Can't look away from that possibility with this ape on the soldering iron

its >10 layer board, you need two strong soldering irons or beefy hotair. Im curious how you managed to solder it in the first place, not to mention remove the bad one :-)

I never used OCCT so dont know its profile.
GPU-Z perfcap shows UTIL = card is not loaded enough to throttle at all, weak load = you didnt hit performance limit.

try something like unigine, heavy game with vsync off or furmarm to really load it up and test properly
15A is fine, just make sure you have all the external power connected (including those 1x2 plugs). As a bonus you can probably bump power limit again ;-) but stick to something sane like 120%

Okey so everything worked perfectly without any problems since yesterday, Gaming, benchmarks and total ON time prob around 4 hours. I sat the whole evening with it, and this morning.

I ran Heaven (By GPU-Z Not pushing even near what OCCT did) for about 40mins no problems. I turned Heaven off. sat for 5-10 minutes in a web browser and suddenly the screens went black. The screen connected to motherboard IGPU, was on for 10sec. then started changing res or something and looking weird before it went black too. I got disconnect sounds (Windows sounds).

Restarted my pc and now once again i am on my third monitor connected to IGPU.



I have also seen that the "Skyn3t" Bios is still on the card somehow. I must have re flashed the wrong bios after it died last year. Though i don't see this having anything to do with it, no settings are above normal. if anything they are under. I have tried 120% etc but not since yesterday. they might be something under the hood of the bios but ehhh you think? I will find my original bios and flash it if i get it working again.




It worked. then didn't. It has been the story of this card since yesterday and now were back at not working again.    i am confused as there is no obvious things going on. there is no Run benchmark = black screen. Or even touching the pc = black screen. Nothing. It is stable as a rock one moment and the other it is a big fat pussy... 

[Sikator]

Actually, I think I can even boot with the card alone. Lije on to windows. I have not tried this with turning off the IGPU but with no displays connected to the motherboard.

I'll try this as well the next time it decides to work. O.o

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk



EDIT: I might know what the problem was, The metal "spring bracket" for the gpu's heatsink only fits perfectly in one direction.

It was touching 2 resistors or what ever those things are. Those things did not measure any different from GND to it compared from the metal backplate to it. IDK if this was it but now its working AGAIN... xD this is like a relationship with a girl that once cheated on you. You can never trust her 100%, but it's all you've got.

[Sikator]

I rearranged some stuff, had it in and out 2 times. No problems what so ever. It's as healthy as can be as far as i am concerned Thanks a lot again for the help I can play games again! <3

[Netcrusher]

Hello i´m new on this website and I read this topic, I have 3 Gtx 780 , they don´t work, just showing a black screen and the fan running at maximum speed, how can I check these Fuses??? In one of the three cards look like someone has changed the Fuse with letter R with one with letter Q, i´m total beginner about it, thanks.