Dead Milwaukee drill - too expensive to repair?

[YurkshireLad]

Well that's disappointing. I dragged my Milwaukee drill out to repair a kitchen cabinet, charged the battery, bought some new drill bits and....... One brief spin and the drill went dead. There's a bit of a burning smell from inside the drill's body. I've had it for 5-10 years but haven't had to use it much. It's not worth opening up to take a look - I'm an absolute beginner with electronics so I'm sure there's nothing I can do. So I'll have to chuck it. I assume it's probably cheaper to replace than find someone to repair it?

[james_s]

If it's broken and you're going to throw it out anyway, why would you not open it to see what went wrong? Do you know any electronics hobbyists? Is there a hacker or maker space anywhere nearby? Repair cafe? Did the smoke come from the vents at the back of the motor or from down in the handle area? If it's the motor it's possible the commutator is just dirty or clogged up with carbon dust. If it was a decent drill you could also sell it on ebay, somebody will buy it and repair it.

[YurkshireLad]

All good questions. I don't know any repair hobbyists or anything like that. There wasn't any smoke, so I could probably open it and see if I can clean anything. Good point about eBay, thanks.

[DLJ]

Is it brushed or brushless?
I have a brushed Milwaukee drill, and the brushes wore out, made the drill smell real bad and then it stopped. However original replacement motors are available. Nice easy fix. Still working 4 years later

Does the light still come on when the trigger is pressed?

Take it to bits and see what's wrong.

[james_s]

It's not possible to diagnose it remotely, the only thing that can be done is get in there and see what's wrong. Do make sure the battery is fully charged first though, the most common fault by far with cordless tools is a worn out battery. A burning smell can be perfectly normal from a brushed motor that has collected a bit of dust.

[Buk]

I'm surprised no one has asked you what model it is; or suggested you look for a repair video on youtube. Eg.

[sean0118]

Is it brushed or brushless?

I always wonder how many washing machines get thrown out because people don't know they need their brushes replaced. Fixed a good Bosch one for $15, still going strong 5 years later.

I guess a lot of the new ones are probably brushless for that reason though.

[KevinA]

Years ago our washing machine packed up - brushes worn out.

I bought a set that lunchtime and stripped it down that evening. The commutator was badly scored, and so I thought I would have to get a friend to skim it on his lathe the next day.

But why wait. During my apprenteship, I learnt how to file accurately, so why not file it. Three hours later, I had a nice clean (and round) commutator. Brushes fitted and it was working fine, and dis so for six more years.

[james_s]

Our washing machines have never used brushed motors but even so a large number of appliances get thrown out for similarly trivial things. A lot of dryers get replaced because they get squeaky drum rollers or the belt or idler fails, all simple and cheap repairs.

[mansaxel]

Our washing machines have never used brushed motors but even so a large number of appliances get thrown out for similarly trivial things. A lot of dryers get replaced because they get squeaky drum rollers or the belt or idler fails, all simple and cheap repairs.

Another favourite "easy replacement" is the motor capacitor. Our dryer first broke its belt, which was a many-screws-but-not-hard repair. Then, a year later, it only growled and refused to run as I'd filled it with laundry.  Suspected the motor cap, and indeed, it had a few pF when it should have held 10µF. New OEM cost 300SEK (around 33 USD) plus shipping. New similar-spec generic motor cap, from the most expensive electronics store in town, 68SEK. And I picked it up en route from work. That is knowledge working for you, as opposed to just paying for exact replacements.

Later, the dryer has decided it's time to deconstruct its condensate bilge pump a few times, so I'm pretty quick at getting it out and putting it back together again now.

[Kleinstein]

An embassing one are compressors send to repair of possible scraped because of a tripped motor protector. This sometimes happens when plugged in with the switch still in on position.

[WattsThat]

Not sure about the marketing in the UK but if it says “Fuel” on the outside of the unit, it’s a brushless design. Five years old, it’s very likely a brushed motor. The brushless units are always the more expensive models in the Milwaukee product line-up.

Milwaukee charges about 75-80% of retail for out out warranty repairs so they’re making a good profit on what becomes an exchange for a new unit since they no longer actually repair anything.

If it’s totally dead with no work light led, suspect the battery first and then the trigger switch. If the led lights, it’s the motor or the mosfet(s). Good place to learn, nothing to lose!