| Electronics > Repair |
| [Done] Dumpster find high-end turntable Sony PS-4300 is it worth repairing? |
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| Gyro:
Yes, you normally just lift the platter / sub-platter off the top of the motor. At least you've got a good look at the thrust face that the ball on the bottom of the spindle runs on (that one looks like nylon, some players use lapped and hardened steel, even ceramic). It looks as if there is a reasonable amount of wear, which will cause more the ball surface to thrust face contact, but it shouldn't squeak. Check that is still clearance between the flat end of the shaft and the thrust face (ie. just to ball in contact), just to make sure the platter isn't running too low in the deck. The more likely place for a squeak is the bearing bushes around the sides of the shaft if they are running dry. Look for any scores in the shaft that might indicate abrasive particles embedded in the bearing bushes. Also check for side play in the spindle (wobble at the edge of the patter). The only other potential sources of a squeak would be corrosion on the pole pieces or magnetic swarf on the inside surface of the magnet, rubbing against the pole pieces and possibly, any parts of the auto-return mechanism rubbing against the rotating parts (I'm not clear how this works as I can't see any gear or cam). The spindle bushes probably need some lubrication by now. I would normally suggest oil, but this is likely to run down the spindle and contaminate the plastic compatible grease on the thrust plate, possibly leaking out of the bottom of the motor, around the metal cap. In this case I would suggest a very light smear of clean Lithium based grease on the surface of the spindle. Also re-distribute the grease on the thrust plate back to the center, where the ball runs. Keep everything scrupulously clean on re-assembly. Go around the inside of the magnet with adhesive tape to collect any magnetic particles, check the pole pieces, clean and lightly lubricate the spindle and re-assemble. |
| agent_power:
Alright, thanks for the tips The old grease was somewhat crusty, I completely removed it and cleaned as per your instruction. Because I don't have Lithium grease I applied some Super Lube "Multi Purpose Synthetic Grease with Syncolon" where the ball rests and a small amount around the bushes. This helped, it doesn't squeak anymore :-+ . According to the RPM speed app +/- 0.55% WOW I also sprayed some contact lubricant (lazy I know) around the automatic arm movement which seems to have broken up the old grease enough to make the mechanism do its job again. Now I have the issue of the counterweight, as well as the broken headshell and needle. I will try to borrow a cartdrige from somewhere to check if the sound works, as well as fix the sound output cable. |
| Gyro:
That sounds promising. I didn't suggest changing the thrust pad grease because it is a heavily loaded part and I didn't want to encourage additional wear. If it was crusty anyway though, it was probably doing more harm than good. I think Super Lube (from some oil I have) has pretty good materials compatibility. Those headshells are a standard item. I remember, years ago, ADC used to do a rigid Magnesium aftermarket one (LMG-1) as an improvement to various manufacturers standard ones. ebay should yield many different replacements, far easier than trying to fix it. EDIT: This US listing has a PS-4300 counterweight, you might try asking the seller to weigh it for you! https://www.ebay.com/itm/305866531765 . Turned steel shaft collars are plentiful on ebay, if you can find one the right internal diameter (with/without o-rings) and mass, it might be a cheap and reasonably attractive substitute without needing a lathe. |
| agent_power:
Update to this: After reassembling the motor I lost a nut inside which didn't want to come out (stuck to a magnet). This prompted an almost complete teardown of all the insides at which point I decided to replace the old grease including adding new dampening grease to the tone arm lift. While there I also re-did the audio output cable. I found a cheap cartridge with a good enough needle and rigged some counterweight (roll of solder) to test the player. It worked pretty well therefore I decided to buy a replacement counterweight. They can be found rather cheap on Yahoo Auctions Japan through Buyee, it cost me around 25€ including shipping and even though it was sold as junk it was packed well and looks like new. (you could buy this model record player for 10 bucks in Japan but then would have to figure out shipping) |
| Gyro:
Very nice result. Thanks for reporting back, too few do. :-+ |
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