genuinely LOL'd when you realised it wasn't on, been there before. Fair play to you for keeping it in the video.
One thing i have done before when fixing my Hameg scopes, is make the signal as big as possible on the display (to aid the trigger cct), and set it to "line trigger" then set it to a timebase to around 20/10/5mS/div. if you see it "lock" on the trigger, you can then measure the period between the ripple/spikes and quite easily find 100Hz (bad rectifier cap) or 50Hz (bad rectifier diode).
In your case it wouldnt have helped, but is still another really useful quick test to do when you suggest having a "play around with the settings"
I had a HM605 with a bad PSU, knackered bulk caps and a dead (previously replaced) bridge rectifier, helps narrow down where the PSU fault could be etc before even opening the scope.
Ps. just got another YT subscriber
