Electronics > Repair
fluke 289 problem
anwfeb:
--- Quote from: Ugur on November 05, 2024, 06:35:15 am ---Z1 should be 1 Mohm. RT1 and RT2 should be about 1.1 K ohm. R4 should be 1K ohm. You should measure the varistors as open circuit. That is "OL". If these parts are good, you can check the parts up to U9. However, if I have to comment, since the Fluke 289 device has a lifetime warranty, it would be healthier to send it to an authorized service.
--- End quote ---
Yes, thank you. Because i think problem it was a simple thing, i didn't need to send it to the Fluke office, Besides that the distributor was in my country when i asked and it was charged. i don't understand the meaning of the guarantee, is it free? and if the device had already been disassembled, so i try to fix it yourself, and it did lead to U9, i would consider sending it to the official fluke.
Ugur:
The device has a warranty, but as with all warranty conditions, this warranty covers manufacturing defects. In your first examination, you said that one of the varistors was broken. This is a part that can be damaged by improper use. Therefore, the service team may interpret this as user error.
anwfeb:
--- Quote from: Ugur on November 05, 2024, 08:27:04 am ---The device has a warranty, but as with all warranty conditions, this warranty covers manufacturing defects. In your first examination, you said that one of the varistors was broken. This is a part that can be damaged by improper use. Therefore, the service team may interpret this as user error.
--- End quote ---
yes physically RT1 it looks like there is a crack or peeling, but for measurements i see both have the same value in ohms 1.024Ω
i thought 1K1 was under certain conditions maybe in a higher or lower temperature, whereas in room temperature it displayed 1.024Ω and i had to look for a similar replacement with the same value, and RV1-RV2-RV3 also I tried removing the third one and it didn't solve the problem either. this did not solve the problem when the multimeter was not used it still couldn't work to zero condition. i still think the problem i'm facing is no longer a Z1, R4, RT1, RT2, RV1, RV2, RV3, C3 problem, i think this area is clear because when i try to find a replacement component, it's still the same (i can't get 0.0000V or even in Ohms i can't get OL when the multimeter is not used)
but I'm still curious, before going to the U9, are there any components that could have an impact like pseudo resistance, sometimes I wonder whether there are false barriers on the mainboard at several layers?
sorry if my english is bad.
Ugur:
If I were you, I would first clean the board with alcohol. Then I would heat the entire board with a hot air station. It may be a cold solder error.
If the problem still persists, I would check the following before U9.
Z2's 1st and 2nd pins are 10M ohms.
Z2's 6th and 3rd pins are 1M ohms.
R27 and R21 are 2Kohhm.
Q13 fet.
anwfeb:
--- Quote from: Ugur on November 07, 2024, 05:32:38 am ---If I were you, I would first clean the board with alcohol. Then I would heat the entire board with a hot air station. It may be a cold solder error.
If the problem still persists, I would check the following before U9.
Z2's 1st and 2nd pins are 10M ohms.
Z2's 6th and 3rd pins are 1M ohms.
R27 and R21 are 2Kohhm.
Q13 fet.
--- End quote ---
Z2, Pin 3 to Pin 6 my fluke resistance is 420KΩ, it should be 1.1MΩ
the other pins i check all had the correct values.
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