| Electronics > Repair |
| Fluke 343A repair |
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| Vertamps:
*New PCB links Below |
| Vertamps:
Here i have uploaded pcb mod files of your choosing. Both 1mm and 1.2mm mating holes, a Wide hole cutout spacer that clears all solder pads, one tight fit spacer board with 1.2mm holes. I am fine with sticky pad spacers i used in trial, however i will tack on each of my boards for my next order. If using JLC PCB just drop the selected zip file, select 10 board qty and your good to go. Let me know of any issue with the link. -William https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/nz4almtqw9p33j7ymv4mh/ADGSwEl5e5UdivuPPLuvtyQ?rlkey=6nn4h3je2gnniqhheckspqx6j&st=61lgvxhj&dl=0 |
| bastl_r:
Oh man :palm: "head --> table" --- Quote ---The zero points are shifted. However, the deviation matches the range. 7.998mV in the 10V; 79.97mV in the 100V; and ~800mV in the 1000V range so I suspect a common error. The offset then also runs through all stages with the same deviation. --- End quote --- Wen i was looking for a video disassembling the switches i found the repair of defpom where he repaired a switch shaft. Later in bed I remembered what else can happen with a broken switch shaft :palm: And yes the shaft of the 4th digit ist totally destroyed. Unfortunately, the latching mechanism is firmly screwed to the device housing and suggests a correctly functioning switch, whereby the contacts set to 8 do not move any further... Defpom has uploaded a print file for a new shaft piece to thingiverse, but unfortunately it doesn't quite work with our printer. But that's not a problem. At least the error has been found. I will now replace all the shafts because they are all cracked Now I'll solder the old UA709 and the old Q39 back in and see if I can manage without recalibration. I didn't have to replace the electrolytic capacitors I've replaced so far. They were all still within the specified capacitance range, even though some of them were a bit high-impedance. Regards |
| TheDefpom:
--- Quote from: bastl_r on July 15, 2024, 12:40:23 am ---Oh man :palm: "head --> table" --- Quote ---The zero points are shifted. However, the deviation matches the range. 7.998mV in the 10V; 79.97mV in the 100V; and ~800mV in the 1000V range so I suspect a common error. The offset then also runs through all stages with the same deviation. --- End quote --- Wen i was looking for a video disassembling the switches i found the repair of defpom where he repaired a switch shaft. Later in bed I remembered what else can happen with a broken switch shaft :palm: And yes the shaft of the 4th digit ist totally destroyed. Unfortunately, the latching mechanism is firmly screwed to the device housing and suggests a correctly functioning switch, whereby the contacts set to 8 do not move any further... Defpom has uploaded a print file for a new shaft piece to thingiverse, but unfortunately it doesn't quite work with our printer. But that's not a problem. At least the error has been found. I will now replace all the shafts because they are all cracked Now I'll solder the old UA709 and the old Q39 back in and see if I can manage without recalibration. I didn't have to replace the electrolytic capacitors I've replaced so far. They were all still within the specified capacitance range, even though some of them were a bit high-impedance. Regards --- End quote --- The downloadable file is an STL, which you can drag into Cura for example and have it use your normal print settings and chosen material configuration, so you should be able to print it out like anything else you normally do, I do recommend something like PLA+ rather than just PLA as it will be stronger, unless you have something else that performs well. |
| bastl_r:
Hi We had to adjust the dimensions a little so that the extensions fitted and printed in PLA. Then you have to make sure that you plug the switches together in the correct position. Otherwise the calibrator won't go to zero either. :palm: I also had to replace Q38 because the zero did not remain stable and drifted away over a longer period of time. I installed a BSV80 instead. Now I still have to adjust the device completely because the previous owner had probably adjusted deck A and deck B but had not adjusted the ranges on deck C beforehand. :-/O At X on deck C 99.989mV and 1 on deck B 100.02mV are output... |
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