Fluke 8060a (or 8020b) bail stand repair

[ogdento]

Hi folks,
I'm repairing an 8060a that's got a broken bail/stand but is in otherwise great physical shape... Has anybody had any luck repairing these? 

I thought I could maybe use a small screw/pin/bolt and some jbweld to re-form the end.  If that doesn't work I could try 3d printing one (I found an 8020b one on thingverse), but I'd really like to use an original part.

Here's a few pics...

[ogdento]

Well I tried the fixes I mentioned above but in the end I didn't like how it turned out.

I ended up finding a source of fluke bails on the interwebs for 5 bucks apiece, so I just bought some of those and called it a day.

[modulate]

How are you supposed to install these bails? I assume you just squeeze the plastic arms until you can fit the cylindrical tabs into the holes. I am also trying to repair one of these but can't get it to fit into the holes without breaking off the cylindrical tab (again). Seems like the recessed portion under the bail interferes with the fit or I should be doing it another way.

[bob91343]

I repaired a similar part recently.  I think I used epoxy.  In any case, the owner had complained that the stand kept falling down.  I played with it and broke it so felt obliged to fix it.

After my fix, the owner said the stand works better than it did, and no longer falls down.  On this one, the break was higher up and there was more 'meat' for a good adhesive joint.  Unless you know what to look for, it's pretty much an invisible repair.

You are supposed to deform the part in order to install it, and they probably didn't do enough searching in order to design a part that wouldn't break.  It's a compromise between flexibility and strength and probably should have been a better material.  I also suspect that the plastic got more brittle with age.

[modulate]

Thanks. I also repaired it with epoxy, but had trouble getting the bail installed without breaking the glue bond. I finally got it--seems to do better inserting the left and then the right.

[Wimberleytech]

If I had this problem, I would design and print a fix on my 3D printer.  I have fixed a number of things that way.  Of course, you need a printer.

The gap at the bottom where the pins sit.  Does that have to interleave into something?  What if a solution encroached in this area?  My guess is that it is designed that way to flex while inserting the pins during manufacture.

[Wimberleytech]

If I had this problem, I would design and print a fix on my 3D printer.  I have fixed a number of things that way.  Of course, you need a printer.

The gap at the bottom where the pins sit.  Does that have to interleave into something?  What if a solution encroached in this area?  My guess is that it is designed that way to flex while inserting the pins during manufacture.

Something like this (not the whole solution just the beginning of the concept)

[bob91343]

One of the things you ought to do with epoxy is give it extra curing time, say a few days.  That way it reaches maximum strength.  Don't stress the part during that time.

[ogdento]

actually if I needed another one of these I'd try this one made by Jeffrey at thingiverse:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2768369

[Wimberleytech]

actually if I needed another one of these I'd try this one made by Jeffrey at thingiverse:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2768369

So, is your problem solved? (Oh, I see you solved)

I just downloaded the stand...pretty simple print job.

[ogdento]

Ha, yeah I got some other bales but I noticed this thread still had some activity and remembered seeing that 3-d print model.  there's some battery holders too

[6PTsocket]

I have been a fan of JB Weld for years but put it away and  buy JB plastic bonder. It comes in tan or black. It is a double syringe like a lot of epoxies but is actually a two part urethane. They say is sets in 15 minutes and is cured in an hour. That is optimistic; it is more like a few hours and I leave it over night to be sure. I have fixed numerous plastic parts with it and it bonds to many other materials. I have had some luck with JB Weld on plastic but this stuff is faster and a pleasure to use. Almost no adhesive works directly on polypropylene, polyethelene, teflon or delrin. Do not confuse this stuff with similarly named JB products like Plastic Welder putty and syringes. You can easily build up weak spots with extra adhesive. It has already saved me a pile.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[ogdento]

bummer, I had that JB Weld Plastic Bonder in my hand the other day but got Kwik weld instead because I'd never heard anything about the bonder!

something to pick up on the next trip, thanks for the tip