Buzzing probably due to a short circuit somewhere.
Cut one of the low voltage transformer wires and put in a light bulb of appropriate voltage, e.g. if 24v then use a 24v 20W bulb (or 2 x 12v bulbs) , wattage of bulb depends on transformer size, if it isa 2" cube then use a 20W bulb, if 4" cube , use 100w bulbs.
If there are three wires , then insert bulb on the "centre wire" it might be black where the other two are yellow. Otherwise use ohmmeter to find center.
When you power up , the bulb will light up and buzzing should stop. (If you are using a centre connection, and it still buzzes and bulb doesn't light, then your bridge rectifier is shorted). At this point you will probably have about half a volt across the main supply capacitor, then you just follow the PCB traces to figure where all the current is going. for example you might have 500mV at the filter capacitor , then 490mV 2 inches away then 480mV on a left branch and 490mV on a right branch, so keep following the branch with lowest voltage. The same method can be used on the ground rail, except the voltage will steadily increase as you get to the fault, then stay static, e.g. 10mv-20mv-30mv-40mv-40mv-40mv-40mv so start looking at the first node with 40mV. This approach is commonly known as the "millivolt method".
You can also just connect a lab supply set at 5v, 1A to the filter capacitor, and use the same method, this removes the hazard of 240v wiring.
Actually before you do all this try measuring the bridge rectifier with the diode range on your DMM. (Power off , of course ) a good bridge will show ~0.6v if red terminal on either AC terminal and black on + , and also if black terminal on either AC terminal and red on -, it may take a few seconds for reading to stabilise.