Frigidaire oven heating element repair

[edy]

Hi everyone,

I have a broken heating element for one of my 4 stove top elements. I tested the continuity using Ohm setting on my meter, the other 3 were showing a slight resistance while broken one was infinite. I traced it to the weld point between the coil itself and the straight connector which connects to the wire clip

My question is, can this be easily repaired? Is it worth it or should I buy another element? I don't think a solder job will do... solder will melt. This looks like a job for electrowelding. I don't think a torch can properly control heat to weld such a tiny connection. However I have no access to an electrowelding machine and I don't know who would even have one to ask for a favor or repair.

Please see attached photos. Seems like such a silly little problem... and I don't think clamping the bits together with a piece of metal will be good enough contact either and likely get screwed up as the element heats.

You can clearly see the break in the top connector in the photo... the end of the coil is no longer welded to the straight wire.

If I have to buy a new one, does anyone have a reliable source that will ship or is located in Canada? Thanks for your help!

[edy]

Here is the coil end pushed over showing it is not welded any more to the straight wire. I found the model number: CFEF366GCA and here is the parts page from Sears:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/FRIGIDAIRE-Parts/Range-Parts/Model-CFEF366GCA/1428/0124111?searchedModel=CFEF&blt=

This is the part here... $75 ouch just because of a small break, frustrating:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-number/FRIGIDAIRE-Parts/Range-Parts/318178110/0022/628/Model-CFEF366GCA/1428/0124111?keySuffixId=&pathTaken=partSearch&pathRender=modelComponent&documentCompId=R0704172&diagramPageId=00003&productTypeId=&searchModelNumber=CFEF366GCA&subCompDesc=Top/drawer&brandDesc=FRIGIDAIRE&modelDesc=ELECTRIC RANGE&blt=11&shdMod=&keyId=15

[corrado33]

Just crimp it on. That's what I do when I make furnaces in the lab. It works fine. While my furnaces often fail, the crimp is never the failure mechanism. As long as the crimps are steel, they won't melt. Alternatively, high temp solder. Just make sure the melting point is above how hot the coil gets (obviously).

As for a torch, you can buy small butane torches (for cheaper than $75), and all of the stuff surrounding the element is heat resistant, so you don't have to worry about melting anything else.

[SeanB]

Crimp with a nickel sleeve ( it will not rust as fast) or just a steel strip. Fold strip over 2 times then crimp hard, it will make good enough contact to work for a lot longer. If you have a dead pop up toaster then take some of the element wire out and use it to bind the wires together, about 4-5 turns then twist the toaster wires together and dress so they do not touch the other element wire.

[edy]

Hey thanks for the help! I found a metal strip, quite thick and hard in the basement, not sure what it is made of... crimped the ends together and obtained continuity again! See photos.... it works!

I don't know how long it will last but now I have time to get better crimps and tools to do the job better next time it fails.

Thanks again! That's why I love the EEVBLOG forums!