Electronics > Repair
GE Microwave oven with burnt connectors on thermal cutoffs [USA]
scootley:
I fixed it with these parts:
Faston connectors:
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-521081-1.html
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/521081-1/288134
TCOs: (which are also physically compatible with the existing mount points)
https://www.cantherm.com/product_post_type/r53/
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cantherm/CS715025Z/2195567
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cantherm/CS711525Y/2195559
Also should note that wiggling the door (in particular upwards) will cause the lowermost interlock switch (referred to as "door sensing" or "secondary interlock") to toggle to an incorrect state (open circuit). This switch is a logical interlock, in the sense that it does not make or break current through the main components, but feeds into the control board as a logic input of sorts. When this happens, the unit activates the fan, turntable, and light, but not the magnetron. This to me is poor control design. You can see why this happens in my simulator in my earlier post. The only way this unit can turn on the light when the door is open is by activating what is labeled as the "motor relay". But if the aforementioned door sense interlock gives a false reading, the motor relay still activates, which then not only turns on the light but also activates the fan and turntable, since that one relay is wired to (and the only way to turn on) all 3 components. In other words, there is no relay/switch that toggles only the light.
(the fan/turntable are normally not on when the door is open because the upper interlock cuts power to them even though the motor relay is active)
However I don't see how this door sense interlock could have caused the TCO failure, so my earlier theory remains the best explanation.
Zakilorado25:
I have the same problem, but I cannot remove the white connectors from the terminals...How do I remove the connectors from the terminals?
amyk:
--- Quote from: Zakilorado25 on January 17, 2024, 11:02:55 pm ---I have the same problem, but I cannot remove the white connectors from the terminals...How do I remove the connectors from the terminals?
--- End quote ---
Pliers or a screwdriver, depending on how stuck they are.
Of course make sure you're pulling on the right part.
Zakilorado25:
Yes I'm pulling on the right part....but I just don't know how to wiggle my pliers to get it out...is there a video or something that I can watch on how to remove it...or can you explain a little more detailly please..
ggggizli:
I ran into exactly the same problem with my Thermador microwave. Like many pointed out in this thread, the problem seems to be bad quality connectors on the TCO.
I have a dumb question before I jump in and start ordering parts. How do you crimp hard-shell plastic insulated connectors like these (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/521011-1/288143) ? The insulation does not seem to be removable but may be it is?
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