Help with Termal Fuse Replacement

[NikkiC]

I am repairing a portable air fryer / oven / toaster / broiler unit for my daughter.  From what I can tell, the only issue is the blown thermal fuse and I could really use some help in sourcing this fuse from here in the U.S. preferably from Mouser (close to me) or Digikey, ETC.  I have found what appears to be the correct datasheet for this component:  https://www.electronicoscaldas.com/datasheet/RYXX-10A-Series_Baile-Electric.pdf

Based on the markings on the component it  appears to be a RY184.  For the sake of completeness, here are the markings on the fuse:

CPGXLD
RY184Tf   184 C
250V 10A
125V 16A

The component is indeed from the manufacturer datasheet, however, for some reason, finding an exact replacement for this fuse hasn't been easy.  I really, really could use some help on finding the right replacement part and to be able to sleep at night knowing the correct fuse replacement was made. 

The unit itself: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09VLGTNTR/

I know there will be an issue replacing the fuse.  Naturally, it is crimped on each end inline with the 120VAC. I am not sure how I am going to address that issue, the crimp connectors are small and appear to be brass.   I am not sure  if just any crimp connector can be used or not.  Advice please.  Don't want to start any fires!!  TIA.

[thm_w]

A no name brand air fryer oven? wonderful. Not something I would buy.

Anyway, the main important specs of a thermal fuse are: fusing temperature, and current rating, which you have found.
The closest I see on Digikey is 192C: SDF DF192S
Maybe mouser has something closer, although I would be OK using that one. Or Amazon might have the exact RY184's.

Crimp, do you have something non-insulated that looks like it would work?
Otherwise, lots available on digikey or mouser https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/terminals/wire-splice-connectors/305

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/need-advice-thermal-fuse-is-it-iok-to-down-or-uprate-them-slightly/
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/thermal-fuse-for-oscillating-fan/
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/thermal-fuse-what-are-the-most-commonly-used/
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/dryer-thermal-fuse/
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/hot-plate-part-(fuse-thermal-axial)-replacement-help/

[Excavatoree]

I did the same thing with  one of those "pressure cooker/rice cooker/slow cooker" thing my aunt had.   I wasn't confident about my ability to crimp the new fuse, so I tried leaving the leads as long as I could, and using three hemostats on the lead of the fuse between the wire and the fuse.  I soldered the wires to the very ends and got away with it.   She used it for a few years afterward, so I suppose the repair was reliable, but I do wonder why the thing blew in the first place.  I was careful to get the same part.  (same manuf part number - I didn't take any chances)

[thm_w]

I did the same thing with  one of those "pressure cooker/rice cooker/slow cooker" things my aunt had.   I wasn't confident about my ability to crimp the new fuse, so I tried leaving the leads as long as I could, and using three hemostats on the lead of the fuse between the wire and the fuse.  I soldered the wires to the very ends and got away with it.   She used it for a few years afterward, so I suppose the repair was reliable, but I do wonder why the thing blew in the first place.  I was careful to get the same part.  (same manuf part number - I didn't take any chances)

If you read the other thread, temperature cycling could also be a cause of failure. Or rice cooker was maybe running dry/empty?
Soldering is probably fine for something that low temperature and power.
When you are at 180C thats already leaded solder melting point, and power level here is probably way higher.

[NikkiC]

I found this: https://www.amazon.com/Tnisesm-Non-Insulated-Connectors-Transformer-Industrial/dp/B09194QM3C , so will see how that works out.  The interesting thing about the SDF DF192S mentioned in the post above is even though it is rated at a functioning temp of 192°C , it's holding temp is slightly lower at 162°C verses 169°C  for the RY184.  Not sure if that makes any difference or not.  Naturally, not many components one gets on Amazon has any datasheet, so in the end your choice of the DF192S might be the better one, but that remains to be seen.  Right now, the Amazon route is the cheapest and fastest way, and I will be thoroughly testing the oven out before giving it back to the kiddo.

If you read the other thread, temperature cycling could also be a cause of failure. ...

I concur. Questioning my daughter about her usage habits revealed what I believe to the the cause of the failure.  The oven's internal fans continue to run after the oven timer expires for about 5 minutes in order to cool the unit down.  She would simply unplug the oven when finished, interrupting the cool down period.  I believe this to be the cause of the premature thermal fuse failure over an 8 month period.

Thank you.    I appreciate your time and efforts in helping me. 

[GLouie]

I had to do this a few years ago on a ski boot fitting oven. I found that NTE sold a whole range, including the 184 you seek. For the crimps, I cut off some noninsulated ferrules from some spade lugs and used my regular Vaco crimper, although I have also used a mini Vise Grip on occasion.

NTE is a venerable repackager of components. I think mine may have been from Amazon or eBay, they were supplied to me. The usual distributors didn't seem to have the exact temperature I wanted.

[themadhippy]

Top tip.Before crimping make sure youve put the silicone/fiber glass sleeving,  if used, over the wires first. Do double check before giving the  crimp a squeeze