How to remove pcb hdmi easely

[Serge125]

Hi all!!! I'm trying to remove this hdmi pcb and no luck at all. I use rosin flux with a disordering braid no luck, I tried my trusty disordering electric pump no luck here either so what is the secret to remove these easily??? I don't have a heat gun (yet) so I know that it would of been easier so I'm stuck with the basic tools. Is there a specific temperature for my soldering iron, I have a hakko FX 888D and I have the org chisel tip on it. Any help with this would be VERY WELCOMED!!!

THANKS!!

Serge

[janoc]

I don't have a heat gun (yet) so I know that it would of been easier so I'm stuck with the basic tools. Is there a specific temperature for my soldering iron, I have a hakko FX 888D and I have the org chisel tip on it. Any help with this would be VERY WELCOMED!!!

With what you have there is no easy way to remove this. Hot air (please, use a proper hot air station, not hardware store "gun" for stripping paint!) would work but you would likely destroy the connector in the process (the plastic melts). Possibly not a concern seeing the state of the connector already. You could also try to snip the mechanical support pins on the sides off using a pair of cutters and then desolder the rest.

Solder suckers and braid are of no use here, you need to heat all the pins at once, including the mechanical pins that are holding the connector down and are soldered into a ground plane (so sucking away the heat).

The best way to do this is a hotplate/preheater. Preheat the board from the bottom and let the solder melt. Then you should be able to pull the connector out easily. And even better way is to preheat the board just below the solder melting using the hotplate and then quickly hit the connector from the top by hot air, it should pop right off.

I have recently got a tiny MHP30 preheater for doing just this type of work - localized rework without having to heat the entire board.

Without a preheater there is a chance that you could get it off by heating the board from the bottom using hot air only but it is very likely that you will scorch the board and the connector will be still stuck due to the ground plane wicking/blocking the heat away.

Oh and keep in mind that you may have a drop of glue under the connector too - that is sometimes done to secure the connectors to the boards for wave soldering and to prevent them being ripped off the board by people plugging and removing the cables.

[Alex Eisenhut]

Tough job, but not impossible. Main question, why remove it? I can see the damage, but I assume that was from attempting to remove it.
My approach would be a multiple iron/two person approach, bring immense heat to the right places quickly and let the thing fall off.
Otherwise you may damage traces.
You'd be surprised how delicate you can be with this

[perieanuo]

dremel/proxxon the connector metal case with care and remove it, then with some big solder blob and >=60W soldering iron, piece of cake
no need for expensive stuff
with hot air it's easy if you know the technique, covering with alu foil and leaving open just the connector, but takes experience, the pcb mustn't be overheated

[Serge125]

Hi there and thanks for your response!!

With what you have there is no easy way to remove this. Hot air (please, use a proper hot air station, not hardware store "gun" for stripping paint!) would work but you would likely destroy the connector in the process (the plastic melts). Possibly not a concern seeing the state of the connector already. You could also try to snip the mechanical support pins on the sides off using a pair of cutters and then desolder the rest.

Well I did it with a store hot gun (low setting) but there wasn't much solder left so I was able to remove it without any problems!! My next thing to buy on my list is the Quick 861DW air station. Now I just need to clean the remaining pads and prepare to solder in the new HDMI connector and scratch some traces around and solder magnet wire to pins that don't have any pads.

Solder suckers and braid are of no use here, you need to heat all the pins at once, including the mechanical pins that are holding the connector down and are soldered into a ground plane (so sucking away the heat).

Well I thought that I was gona have it easy as in the video () but one thing that I have noticed in his video is the the pins that holds the HDMI are longer than mine so he was more able to heat all the way in the hole compared to me. My pins were 3/4 inside the hole.

The best way to do this is a hotplate/preheater. Preheat the board from the bottom and let the solder melt. Then you should be able to pull the connector out easily. And even better way is to preheat the board just below the solder melting using the hotplate and then quickly hit the connector from the top by hot air, it should pop right off.

I have recently got a tiny MHP30 preheater for doing just this type of work - localized rework without having to heat the entire board.

Without a preheater there is a chance that you could get it off by heating the board from the bottom using hot air only but it is very likely that you will scorch the board and the connector will be still stuck due to the ground plane wicking/blocking the heat away.

Ok next thing on my list to get too. I've seen some good reviews on this MHP30!!

Oh and keep in mind that you may have a drop of glue under the connector too - that is sometimes done to secure the connectors to the boards for wave soldering and to prevent them being ripped off the board by people plugging and removing the cables.

Well no glue here so less work for me!! This is my FIRST attempt to do this kind of "micro soldering" but with what I have as a microscope for now it's better than nothing. We all have to start somewhere!! BTW I've sent a pic of my microscope I know it's old school but for now it get's the job done. What do you recommend as a stereo microscope for starters? For now I don't need a video camera to film this I just need a microscope with maybe a light ring. I had this in mind for starting (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0859VNPJB/?coliid=I23ZOTKSI3YKE&colid=RA9WS9ZZ1OGU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) OR (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07G92FG7L/?coliid=I11S62D81XQFDS&colid=RA9WS9ZZ1OGU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) budget wise, would that be ok?

THANKS for your help!!!

Serge

[Serge125]

Tough job, but not impossible. Main question, why remove it? I can see the damage, but I assume that was from attempting to remove it.
My approach would be a multiple iron/two person approach, bring immense heat to the right places quickly and let the thing fall off.
Otherwise you may damage traces.
You'd be surprised how delicate you can be with this

Thanks but I'm alone with this project but was able to get it off with a shop heat gun set on low!!

THANKS!!

[Serge125]

dremel/proxxon the connector metal case with care and remove it, then with some big solder blob and >=60W soldering iron, piece of cake
no need for expensive stuff
with hot air it's easy if you know the technique, covering with alu foil and leaving open just the connector, but takes experience, the pcb mustn't be overheated

Was able to remove it with a shop heat gun set on low.

THANKS!!