How to remove solder stuck in hole

[Njackste]

I am working on a PCB and I am trying to desolder some components but the pads are gone and solder is stuck on the other side and in the barrel (btw it's throught hole)

I don't have access to the other side of the board and I need to keep the component so I can't break it.

I was thinking about getting a vacum desoldering station to such the solder through the hole (my engineer ss-02 can't do that)

Any ideas on how to do it

Any help appreciated
Thanks

[mikeselectricstuff]

Melt the solder and give the board a sharp tap on the bench - the solder will fly out

[pqass]

You could try pushing through a stainless steel sewing pin/needle.
Apply solder to what's left of the pad on the side you have access to and push the hot needle through.
You may need to blunt the needle tip a bit so it can make a better contact/push the lead out if it's still attached.

[aqibi2000]

I would very highly recommend having a set of these in your tool kit.

Just work amazingly, about £4.

Here’s a relatively poor demonstration with a cheap soldering iron with a rubbish tip, but works excellent on high thermal mass boards with a good iron.

https://youtu.be/UEA6PN764ew

[Njackste]

Thanks for all the suggestions the desoldering needles won't work because if I pull 1led out before the other it will break also if anyone ever used a desoldering station can you tell me if that helps remove the solder

[vintagepc]

I can vouch for the needles linked by aquibi2000. They're a brilliant tool because some of them are hollow and they are stainless steel. For me they were a "Where has this been all my life" moment, about on par with the feeling when I upgraded from a manual solder sucker to a Hakko 808.

Essentially, what happens is you heat the solder and slide the needle over the lead of the component (can also be helpful to straighten bent leads!!) and into the molten solder, through to the other side.

Remove the iron and let the solder harden. It won't bond with the steel, so what you now have is a perfect little plug you've cut out around your component lead, and it should now be free to remove (or you can move on to the next lead if it's a multipin package). I've done a few DIP8s with them because I didn't want to fire up and have to clean the desoldering gun for all of 30 seconds.

Obviously care must be taken in selecting the needle size so you don't damage the through-hole plating or punch it through.

[isopropilick]

In the past I have used compressed air (heat the joint and blast it full pressure ~120 PSI) and the solder is gone, not the best method TBH but it worked

[penfold]

Do I understand right that the component is still in the board, with the solder in the holes?

I've never been a fan of vacuum desolder gear, only owned a cheap one myself and used a few Weller and pace ones at various places of work -- never had any particular success with any -- couldn't say whether the older pro ones were losing their suck and the cheap one was just rubbish, always kept filters clean etc but never found them any more effective than solder wick and flux or a descent long-travel desolder pump.

Is the LED by any chance connected to an internal ground plane without thermal relief, that's a big cause of trapped solder and difficult to remove THT parts. In that case, you may find it a little more beneficial to heat the board with hot air, not quite to melting or to risk burning the board, but just enough that the board won't totally drain the heat from the soldering iron tip. Using plenty of flux, solder wick, (refilling the joint with fresh solder can help it wick out better) and wiggling the pin as it cools again can help break it free from any remaining solder.

[Njackste]

Yes the component is still stuck in the hole with solder stuck in the barrel and the other side.

Is ripping the component my only option or should I use hot air or a desoldering station

Thanks

[Njackste]

Also no ground plane

[esepecesito]

The very first thing I do, is add more solder, make it very hot, then use any desoldering technic you like.

[ErwinsCat]

sometimes i use nic-chrome wires. they do not get wet by solder so you can heat your joint and try to push the nic-chrome wire to open the whole same as stainless needles

[David Hess]

A vacuum desoldering tool can work.  A stainless steel needle may be the cheapest option.

Another way I have done it is with a wire drill and pin vice to hold the drill.

[aqibi2000]

You poke the hollow needle through for each leg of the component individually, to isolate it from the board in situ.

The led will not break, you just do them 1 at a time.

This is what you need

[RayRay]

By using a special tool intended for this exact purpose! Get a set of "solder assist tools: from aliexpress/amazon:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001999271733.html
The 4th one (top to bottom) is made for this usage (you just stick it in from the bottom, heat up the pad from the top with your iron and slightly press the board onto it, then remove it, and it'd clear the little bit of solder left in it. This tool set is a must have for anyone doing soldering work!

[Njackste]

Thanks

[ThermallyFrigid]

By using a special tool intended for this exact purpose! Get a set of "solder assist tools: from aliexpress/amazon:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001999271733.html
The 4th one (top to bottom) is made for this usage (you just stick it in from the bottom, heat up the pad from the top with your iron and slightly press the board onto it, then remove it, and it'd clear the little bit of solder left in it. This tool set is a must have for anyone doing soldering work!

The link is dead.
One of the problems not mentioned here is that is is very easy to overheat the board and thus allow any plating originally in the hole and or the tracks / traces around the pin in question to separate from the PCB.  Pulling out the plating inside a PCB hole can lead to isolation of that part of the PCB on one side from the other.  Unfortunately, that is all too often the end result.

Also, unfortunately, honing your PCB board repair skills after damage is done is important because no matter how good you are, or what tools you have at your disposal, it will happen.

[Martin Miranda]

i use the forbidden dark technique... 
i cut the pins from the pcb. resolder the dip or sil package on a hi-rel/socket, then install a new socket on the pcb. esp with old crusty pcb.

[Martin Miranda]

without the IC, it is more easy to pull the pins.