Induction motor- faulty or not?

[BurningTantalum]

I scored an 1970s 'made in Taiwan' bench grinder from the dump. It had a shattered Bakelite mains switch and the wires had been disconnected.
I wanted it for mounting a pair of small polishing mops.
The armature has a centrifugal switch and may not have had a start capacitor as there is no evidence of mounting.
The windings have two red wires and two smaller white wires. I tested for continuity which seemed OK, but found one red is short to one white. I removed the windings from the frame and could see that the red and white are crimped into a sleeve in the varnish. Close inspection revealed that only one copper wire went from this sleeve into the winding, but elsewhere there is a single copper wire from the slots into a sleeve and two copper wires out into the slots.
Red to red measures 13R 48mH.
White to white 12R 25mH. Then I measured red to white (not the shorted ones) and found 12R 25mH. This suggests a third winding.
I'm confused and cannot see how to connect this to run it. The windings are very clean with no discolouration or damage.
Any ideas welcome,  BT

[tautech]

Small bench grinder motors commonly do not have start or run caps.
One winding is as you have probably guessed a run winding and the other start with the centrifugal switch dropping the connection to the start winding when appropriate RPM is reached.

A bit of Googleing should find schematics.

Check the makers label for watts or current and when you have it running check current draw is in the right ballpark.

[BurningTantalum]

Thanks,
 that was the expected configuration, but what I don't understand is why if I test resistance between the red and the white leads (with other red/white shorted together) I don't read the sum of the two winding resistances.
BT