Jaycar 80W Desoldering Station gun replacment?

[mictas]

I didn't have my station set to the right temperature and it now has some solder stuck in the nozzle. So something really stupid... (I will try to drill it out, I am waiting on some bits for that)

While yes I know about the replacement heating element. I would like to get myself a second gun, just encase.

I was thinking about getting the gun for the ZD-985, I did email one of the sellers in Australia and he said something about there being one less pin. Having looked at my station, it dose have seven pins.
This is the unit I am thinking of buying: https://rhinotools.com.au/product/replacement-desoldering-gun/
While this has a three month wait: https://www.jaycar.com.au/spare-80w-desoldering-gun-for-ts-1513/p/TS1514

I found this image in google posted here



Has anyone been able to test if this works, or if I go down this road, should using a multi-meter to check help?

[beanflying]

Depending on wherein Oz you are drop Radio Parts a call and ask about the plug on this Doss one https://www.radioparts.com.au/product/38571752/zd552-desoldering-gun-for-zd917-24v-80w-6-pin-din-plug#.XCRkWs1xUdU You will also find desoldering guns in Australia similar to the Jaycar one but you won't get any sensible information in most cases.

I can't make out if the Jaycar one you linked is a 6 or 7 pin?

Edit looks like the Doss is 6 pin so if you grab one on ebay you may need to do a plug change.

[Armadillo]

You don't need to drill through.... All you need is to turn on the gun at moderate high temperature, wait for 10 minutes or so, then use the cleaning tool to push thru.
The stuck solder inside would have soften by then and a moderate force would be able to do it.

The good practice is always clean your desoldering gun after each use. When the flow is weak, and you turn off the gun, that's where stuck solder will develop.
Avoid breaking the plating surfaces of the gun by drilling, for example. When the tip is oxidized, it would be counterintuitive to increase the temperature to compensate leading to early death.

Well, that's my opinion. 

[mictas]

Depending on wherein Oz you are drop Radio Parts a call and ask about the plug on this Doss one https://www.radioparts.com.au/product/38571752/zd552-desoldering-gun-for-zd917-24v-80w-6-pin-din-plug#.XCRkWs1xUdU You will also find desoldering guns in Australia similar to the Jaycar one but you won't get any sensible information in most cases.

I can't make out if the Jaycar one you linked is a 6 or 7 pin?

Edit looks like the Doss is 6 pin so if you grab one on ebay you may need to do a plug change.

The gun I have has 7 pins and not six. Its also white unlike the photo, its white. Here is the one I have https://www.jaycar.com.au/spare-80w-desoldering-gun-for-ts-1513/p/TS1514 this has a three month wait for resupply.

I'm also down in Tasmanian, for anything at this point I will need shipping.

You don't need to drill through.... All you need is to turn on the gun at moderate high temperature, wait for 10 minutes or so, then use the cleaning tool to push thru.
The stuck solder inside would have soften by then and a moderate force would be able to do it.

The good practice is always clean your desoldering gun after each use. When the flow is weak, and you turn off the gun, that's where stuck solder will develop.
Avoid breaking the plating surfaces of the gun by drilling, for example. When the tip is oxidized, it would be counterintuitive to increase the temperature to compensate leading to early death.

Well, that's my opinion. 

So when you say 'moderate high' do you mean like 300 or?

Yea, I do give it a clean, also while I am using the thing. The issue was when I forget to turn the temperature up and a blub of solder was sucked in and didn't make it through. I also make sure to leave the tip covered with fresh solder when I am done using it and have never had any early tip death issues.
I needed to stop using the desoldering satiation for a little bit and turned it down but not off.

I did try to poke at the blockage a few times and it didn't want to move.

[beanflying]

I should have read more thoroughly too I read it as you needed a new gun not a clean

My Aoyue has a different tip to yours but clearing it should be similar crank it up to 250-260 and even add some more heat to it from the front with a soldering iron to get some power into the tip. So not necessarily more temperature but getting all of the tip to melting point. In my case I add the tip of the iron to the rear of the tip shown in the Pic. Tip cleaner works great or even copper wire if that's all you have should sort it out.

Tip shows a partial blockage (shot tonight so I failed to clean it last time). Generally will clear when hot and a tap on the bench. Mmm Time to do the dusting too 

[Armadillo]

Moderate high means about 350 degC ~ 400 degC around. Repairing multi-layered boards common temperature.

If the temperature is low, it's difficult to melt the solder to desolder it.
Actually blockage happen when the flow is slow or low after previous desoldering. The small piece of filter get stuck easily.

If you have difficulty, take our the glass cartridge and remove the black rubber "grommet" from the gun, to expose the suction tube. You may see the stuck bids, ply with plier or Aid the 350deg.C with another soldering gun at the back of the tube, then push thru. Careful with melting plastic body with second gun.

So when you say 'moderate high' do you mean like 300 or?

Yea, I do give it a clean, also while I am using the thing. The issue was when I forget to turn the temperature up and a blub of solder was sucked in and didn't make it through. I also make sure to leave the tip covered with fresh solder when I am done using it and have never had any early tip death issues.
I needed to stop using the desoldering satiation for a little bit and turned it down but not off.

I did try to poke at the blockage a few times and it didn't want to move.

[Armadillo]

I think when you set at 260degC, you may have been misled by the solder profile.
We need to think dynamically, when the tip touches the colder solder surface areas, the temperature drops drastically because of heat exchanged.
The effect will be even worst with ground planes or planes added with heatsinks.
So do you think it will stuck at the back of the tube more easily.?

[beanflying]

Also will vary from tool to tool. 250-260 works for mine but whatever you need depending on the solder. The Adding of extra heat with an Iron is the easy way to melt a blockage for me at least.

The Aoyue tips can also be unscrewed in most cases and put in front of a gas flame if really needed as the barrel runs in one piece from tip to waste area.

[Armadillo]

Its that your stuck tip?   

Also will vary from tool to tool. 250-260 works for mine

[beanflying]

Yep. I desoldered a piece of crud Victor Insulation tester (last job) and went straight on to soldering the board up again

Even when careful the rearmost 5-6mm can block as the tubes are outside the element and heat.

[GreyWoolfe]

I had the same problem with my ZD-985.  My research had me turning up the heat all the way and wait about 10 minutes.  Jam cleared easily with the cleaning tool.  No need to use a drill bit.

[ciccio]

My ZD-985 jammed exactly in that point.
Set temp at 450  C, waited for 10 minutes, cleared with the clenaing tool, and it worked fine.
I do not understad how the OP can desolder at 250 °C. 
In my experience such a low temperature will not allow efficient and fast desoldering (and even soldering).
My unit is set to 370 °C...
By the way, I believe that the Jaicar gun is too similar to the ZD-985 one for not being a ZD-985 gun, and you can get it on e-bay for a few dollars.
This is an Italian seller,https://www.ebay.it/itm/PISTOLA-RICAMBIO-STAZIONE-DISSALDANTE-ZD-985-ZD-915-SSD-25-ZD-91-SALDANTE-7-POLI/281972643624?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180221161347%26meid%3D496b0ecca3b145f6a33265e8de680b0a%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D281972643624&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226 but you can find others in your Country..
Best regards

[beanflying]

My ZD-985 jammed exactly in that point.
Set temp at 450  C, waited for 10 minutes, cleared with the clenaing tool, and it worked fine.
I do not understad how the OP can desolder at 250 °C. 
In my experience such a low temperature will not allow efficient and fast desoldering (and even soldering).
My unit is set to 370 °C...

My Aoyue is numbered 1-10 on the desoldering side but is still has a calibration pot (maybe so it can be turned up to 11) So the 260 is a measured temp at the tip itself with a thermocouple. Different construction too as per below. Most likely equates to something hotter on the Doss/Jaycar tips?

[mictas]

My ZD-985 jammed exactly in that point.
Set temp at 450  C, waited for 10 minutes, cleared with the clenaing tool, and it worked fine.
I do not understad how the OP can desolder at 250 °C. 
In my experience such a low temperature will not allow efficient and fast desoldering (and even soldering).
My unit is set to 370 °C...
By the way, I believe that the Jaicar gun is too similar to the ZD-985 one for not being a ZD-985 gun, and you can get it on e-bay for a few dollars.
This is an Italian seller,https://www.ebay.it/itm/PISTOLA-RICAMBIO-STAZIONE-DISSALDANTE-ZD-985-ZD-915-SSD-25-ZD-91-SALDANTE-7-POLI/281972643624?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180221161347%26meid%3D496b0ecca3b145f6a33265e8de680b0a%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D281972643624&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226 but you can find others in your Country..
Best regards

I like to desolder between 350c to 400c, I like to use 400c when I have to deal with a larger ground plain.

That dose look like it yes, sadly that seller dose not ship to Australia, but because they list the model ZD-985 which is the same as the rhino tools, and in the eBay listing you have linked, this gun has the 7 pins.

Meaning it should work, thank you for that.

I should have read more thoroughly too I read it as you needed a new gun not a clean

My Aoyue has a different tip to yours but clearing it should be similar crank it up to 250-260 and even add some more heat to it from the front with a soldering iron to get some power into the tip. So not necessarily more temperature but getting all of the tip to melting point. In my case I add the tip of the iron to the rear of the tip shown in the Pic. Tip cleaner works great or even copper wire if that's all you have should sort it out.

Tip shows a partial blockage (shot tonight so I failed to clean it last time). Generally will clear when hot and a tap on the bench. Mmm Time to do the dusting too 

Yea mine did not look like that, the blockage was more towards the top, I'd guess 1.5 cm from the tip.
And it turns out it wasn't that small pile of solder I watched get sucked up into the gun, but dirt... bloody dirt...

Moderate high means about 350 degC ~ 400 degC around. Repairing multi-layered boards common temperature.

If the temperature is low, it's difficult to melt the solder to desolder it.
Actually blockage happen when the flow is slow or low after previous desoldering. The small piece of filter get stuck easily.

If you have difficulty, take our the glass cartridge and remove the black rubber "grommet" from the gun, to expose the suction tube. You may see the stuck bids, ply with plier or Aid the 350deg.C with another soldering gun at the back of the tube, then push thru. Careful with melting plastic body with second gun.

I've found that sometimes I do have a little trouble taking out the chamber, but mostly because I push in the wrong direction.

My ZD-985 jammed exactly in that point.
Set temp at 450  C, waited for 10 minutes, cleared with the clenaing tool, and it worked fine.
I do not understad how the OP can desolder at 250 °C. 
In my experience such a low temperature will not allow efficient and fast desoldering (and even soldering).
My unit is set to 370 °C...

My Aoyue is numbered 1-10 on the desoldering side but is still has a calibration pot (maybe so it can be turned up to 11) So the 260 is a measured temp at the tip itself with a thermocouple. Different construction too as per below. Most likely equates to something hotter on the Doss/Jaycar tips?

If that tip would fit the 2 mm tunnel in my gun, it would make life SO much easier.

---

Now, I have a few photos I have taken, I kind of 'lost it' after about 20 mins of getting no where with a stripped 2.5mm 2c+e solid core cable, used to start trying to clear the blockage and found it got me no where.

So getting my hands on a 2mm drill bit, I carefully insert the drill bit and slowly turned it. I found small bits of dirt coming out and over time, it seemed to clear. Now I used my cleaning rod and found zero resistance, so to be 100% sure I checked down the barrel, before sticking the drill bit through again from the glass chamber side and pushed it through with the aid of my copper wire.

Now, the gun sucks like new again.

Please see photos below.





 

[mictas]

I'm going to close this off, with a video I made.

[Muttley Snickers]

I've mentioned Rhino Tools a few times around the forum and only have good things to say about them, their products, pricing and service are excellent. In regards to the missing splash plate, you probably could have made one from the base of an aluminium can and a pair of tin snips if need be.

[mictas]

I've mentioned Rhino Tools a few times around the forum and only have good things to say about them, their products, pricing and service are excellent. In regards to the missing splash plate, you probably could have made one from the base of an aluminium can and a pair of tin snips if need be.

The problem is that I have not had one to work with in the past, my Jaycar one didn't come with it, but the gun from Rhino Tools I ordered did. It might have been hard to tell, but it was a happy surprise.

The Hakko 808 I had access to at HackerSpace also didn't have the prefilter.