Electronics > Repair
Keithley 2002 repair help
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Samogon:
Tranformer is ok. They all look like this, melted, but it is not.
Accorfing to photos, you got nice unit. No acid damage.
nikonoid:
Thank you for reassurance on the transformer, Samogon.

Today I took the analog board out. It took quite a bit of effort. I think the manual is somewhat incorrect. They are recommending desoldering the white wire when disconnecting the rest of input connectors. In practice it seemed that the best course of action is disconnect the rest of front and back inputs, keep the white wire attached until the Analog Board is out of the case. Only then you have direct access to the back side of the board and can easily desolder it.

The good news is the the faulty inputs switch is off. Once I customized the vacuum suction tip to have wider opening: 0.052", removing the switch was a breeze.

Will be changing capacitors in few days.

Meanwhile I have another question, the board I have seem to have a bit of dust on it, mostly by the fan (including spots under the shield).
Should I blow this dust away? Is there a preferred method?

Manual suggests compressed nitrogen, but I do not have it. Would air from a compressor suffice or should I use IPA instead? Thank you very much.
macboy:

--- Quote from: nikonoid on May 18, 2017, 03:25:59 am ---
Meanwhile I have another question, the board I have seem to have a bit of dust on it, mostly by the fan (including spots under the shield).
Should I blow this dust away? Is there a preferred method?

Manual suggests compressed nitrogen, but I do not have it. Would air from a compressor suffice or should I use IPA instead? Thank you very much.

--- End quote ---
Don't use air from a compressor unless you have very good filtration. By that I mean 0.02 micron or better coalescing filter to remove oils in addition to particulates. Otherwise you will contaminate the board with compressor oils. You should be able to get ultra low residue canned duster from you usual electronic supply shops. Don't use the normal consumer grade stuff, in most countries it has a bitterant that will leave residue everywhere.
nikonoid:
Thanks for the suggestion. Would "MG Chemicals Super Duster 134" or "MG Chemicals Super Duster 152" be a good enough for the task?
macboy:

--- Quote from: nikonoid on May 20, 2017, 03:18:26 am ---Thanks for the suggestion. Would "MG Chemicals Super Duster 134" or "MG Chemicals Super Duster 152" be a good enough for the task?

--- End quote ---
Either looks fine, both are "pure" (single ingredient) and residue free. The 134 is non-flammable and approved for use on energized circuits. The 152 is flammable under some conditions, but I think it is less expensive as well. Use with good ventilation.
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