KID-R480A Loud bang and smoke

[offline]

I'm looking for advice about a KID-R480A Bga Rework Station.
It was bought recently as untested, It had a yellow industrial plug. which I swapped for an Masterplug RCD Plug
I turned it on everything seemed okay, and was browsing the touch screen menu
suddenly there was a loud BANG, it tripped the breaker in my house. There was a lot of smoke coming from the left around the side cooler.

I've removed the back panel to have a look inside
What do you think the source of the smoke might, be what should I remove to check.

Is it possible it's modified for 110v and and I put 240v. although it does say 220v on the side
Also It has a hole on the side for a usb, but there is no usb port it's missing. and the laser and lamp don't turn on.

[pinyoro]

Bang and smoke sounds like a faulty capacitor.

Sent from my WAS-LX1A using Tapatalk

[offline]

I was having a look at this before, I think the cause was this cross flow cooling fan. It smells burned.
looks similar to the fans found inside microwaves.

After some research I believe I need a AC Shaded Pole Motor YJ61-30

Does anybody know where I buy a replacement?

[Towger]

"Industrial yellow plugs" are 110v, so yes you blew it up.  However, the switch mode PSUs I see in it are probably 110-240v.  So it is a matter of seeing what let the smoke out and hopefully fixing it.

[amyk]

That looks like a regular shaded-pole motor, it should be relatively easy to find a replacement of the right dimensions, and even if you can't, it's not hard to rewind one.

[themadhippy]

"Industrial yellow plugs" are 110v,

Supposedly. However its not unusual to find idiots cutting of the locating lugs on the plugs  to make a "universal  lead",why waste money on 2  different leads for 240 and 110 when 1 can be bodged   to fit everything.

[Gyro]

Forgive me for being sceptical but I wouldn't expect a small shaded pole motor to cause a loud bang and trip the house breaker.

The motor winding is quite fine, so I would expect one of the ends of the winding to quietly fuse without tripping anything, even if the winding insulation had started to develop shorted turns. The outer tape doesn't appear to have got that hot and I don't see any evidence of the former melting enough (at all?) to cause a ground fault.

I wouldn't be particularly surprised by it smelling burned as it will have been sucking smoke. You could well be smelling hot varnish. If the winding still shows a sensible continuity then I think the actual culprit is almost certainly something else.

[mikerj]

I would agree with Gyro, I'd expect a small motor with e.g. shorted turns to get hot and smell, maybe smoke but loud bangs usually suggest a capacitor or semiconductor device has met it's maker.

The plate shows this thing is rated at 18Amps, if true you won't be able to power this from a 13 Amp socket and would explain why it had an industrial plug attached.  Just to check, the smoke was definitely coming from the unit and not your freshly fitted RCD plug?

[offline]

I turned it on without the cooler motor it blew the fuse on my extension reel. If this needs 18A what do I need to run this machine? All I have is 13A sockets.

[Mechatrommer]

I turned it on without the cooler motor it blew the fuse on my extension reel. If this needs 18A what do I need to run this machine? All I have is 13A sockets.

something wrong and shorted if that small equipment requires more than 10A from 240Vac, more than 2KW is not right. whats arrowed in the picture? looks like melting points. try disconnect the load and turn on PSU only if its still burning fuse. your picture is not clear where the mains power input will go, looks like there are more than one entries. no schematics? it has its own circuit breaker

[xmetal]

I did a search for the model and it says rated power is 2700W (assuming the Chinese source is correct) so it should run fine on a 13A socket.

[xmetal]

I then found this which gives the impression that 2700W refers to the bottom IR heater. If that is the case, a 13A socket wouldn't be suitable and you would need a 16A or 32A socket installed. These use the industrial blue plugs, not the yellow which are 110V.

 

Specification

Power: single-phase 220V, 50/60Hz

PC B size：L20*W20~L470*W420mm

BGA size：2*2-6 0* 60mm

PC B locating way：outer or frame

Bottom pre-heating：IR2700 W

Lower heater：hot air 800 W

Upper heater: hot air 600 W

Power: Single-phase 220V, 50/60Hz

Machine size：L675*W630*H600mm

[Gyro]

Wow, I bet that makes decent toast! 

Are you planning on doing lots of BGAs? Just curious.

[offline]

I must have an early revision, no usb, no ir sensor for a remote control, There isn't much info anywhere for this rework station.
Really I just wanted to practice removing bga components, I've decided to try rewire, and separate what I can from the wiring loom. Then I can test things individually
and get rid of some bullet connectors, maybe use terminal strips.
I did buy a blue 16A/32A plug/socket pair. but wont my 13A wall socket be insufficient. Is it safe to draw power from two sockets into one?.

Still think this cooler motor windings are blown, I got virtually zero ohms on my meter. the motor connects to no 7 and negative on the breaker

First thing I want to figure out is the lamp and laser menu touch buttons not working. what is the three pairs of connectors OUT1 OUT2 OUT3

[themadhippy]

Is it safe to draw power from two sockets into one

congratulations  youve just made a widow maker.

[Gyro]

Is it safe to draw power from two sockets into one

I'd have to say no - once you put one plug in, the pins on the other one would become live. You could of course use the switches on the sockets to mitigate this but it wouldn't be a foolproof procedure and could potentially injure of kill someone.

[Renate]

I'm sorry that your nice new device blew up.
Whatever its shortcomings, it looks like a lot of work (and money?) went into it.

First of all, for Americans (like me) who don't understand these things, "yellow industrial plug" means IEC 60309 European standard round, colorful, plastic plugs.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEC_60309
The British are always selling stuff without plugs or the wrong plug.
Yellow plug = 120V, blue plug = 240V.

So the specs say 2750 + 800W + 600W + (mmm, maybe 100W for the Mean Well NES-50-24) = 4250 Watts = 20 Amps @220V
Ok, so why is the line circuit breaker 60 Amps!!!
Because this was intended for 120V.

The Mean Well and the little LED driver are universal, but the fan and the heating elements are not.
I don't know if the heating elements have serial/parallel options for 120/240.
If there are wiring options, you may be saved, although the triacs may be blown.

They probably didn't test this because they didn't have a big enough 120V supply.

[Renate]

The QS-2008 vacuum pump (which is 220V) is being fed with that step-up transformer, it might have gotten hit with 480V!
It all comes down to what options you turned on with the touch panel.
If you can remember, it might help.
Also, the triacs under the blue MOVs may be blown.
You did turn on 11kW of heating (4*2750).

[Mechatrommer]

holy spaghetti! (the hand drawn schematics above) well at least you have learnt your system, thats a good thing... i think that toaster will not turned on right away when you switch the mains power on, so i still think there's something causing the short or high power consumption. have you tried disconnecting all and then connecting one by one to see which one consume that much power? just by looking at it, if me, i will try disconnecting the green connectors on the control board and to led/laser driver first to see if the SMPS cause the high current consumption. if its ok, then i'll try connecting the left green connector, if its ok, reconnecting the right green connector, this should narrow down the problem. ymmv.

[Renate]

I still think there's something causing the short or high power consumption.

Seriously?

You've got a 50W SMPS, designed for 240V, probably with a fuse inside.
Why are you suspecting that, versus, say the 11kW load that the main heater represents on the wrong voltage?
Everything didn't explode when he plugged it in, it was after trying some buttons on the panel.
Maybe it was "preheat" or "calibrate" or "demo" or who knows.

We already have a shaded pole fan that's toast.
If he turns on the vacuum pump, that will blow up.
If he turns on any of the three heaters on, they will blow up (if they haven't already).

[mikerj]

The British are always selling stuff without plugs or the wrong plug.

The British are doing no such thing.  All consumer appliances sold in the UK must come fitted with the correct BS1363-1 plug by law, but cheap, low quality crap with incorrect or badly made connectors seem to be very easy to import.

So the specs say 2750 + 800W + 600W + (mmm, maybe 100W for the Mean Well NES-50-24) = 4250 Watts = 20 Amps @220V

You might want to check your maths.  The plated current matches up almost perfectly with the total power at 240v, so how would this be a 120v device?

[Renate]

The British are always selling stuff without plugs or the wrong plug.

The British are doing no such thing.  All consumer appliances sold in the UK must come fitted with the correct BS1363-1 plug by law

My apologies, I'm out of date, but that law was only passed in 1992.
https://www.nytimes.com/1992/01/31/world/mere-plug-at-the-wire-s-end-in-england-that-s-progress.html

So the specs say 2750 + 800W + 600W + (mmm, maybe 100W for the Mean Well NES-50-24) = 4250 Watts = 20 Amps @220V

You might want to check your maths.  The plated current matches up almost perfectly with the total power at 240v, so how would this be a 120v device?

We're agreed that this device takes over 4000 Watts, correct?
It's only the voltage that is in dispute.

There is a 60 Amp, two pole, trip curve C breaker on the input.
(As a C breaker it would trip instantly at 5-10X, i.e. 300-600 Amp.)
There was a yellow IEC 60309 plug on the unit
There is a transformer (which I claim is step-up) on the vacuum pump.
It blew up on 240V.

[offline]

Maybe it is 110V, one of these voltage relays has died. burn damage under the pcb
I tested the vacuum transformer direct to 240v It output 120v

HELISHUN HLS-T78-DC24V-C
10A 120VAC
20A 14VDC

[Renate]

I tested the vacuum transformer direct to 240v It output 120v

I presume that you hooked this up "backwards", 240V into where the pump was connected and got 120V out of where the input line was.

You may have lucked out in that the relays that feed the accessories blew up.
Maybe it never tried to turn on any of the heating sources.

Your biggest problem may be that all the heating elements are only designed to work on 120V.
Getting three of them replaced with 240V could be expensive.

The 120V is crazy, even in America a device like this would take 240V.

[Mechatrommer]

Maybe it is 110V, one of these voltage relays has died. burn damage under the pcb

thats the 8th pin from the left (silkscreen marking blocked by the bottom relay, so cant tell what), you didnt mark where it go on your hand drawn schematics (now missing) either. the PCB is obviously designed for 220V. ignore the 120V marking on the relays, they can happily take 240V, china style designs obviously knows this what the vaccum pump rated? (the white box there?)