Microwave Relay Specs

[mpg9999]

I have an error code on my Whirlpool microwave that corresponds to a bad relay.  I pulled the board out of the microwave and the relay is a "HF25F012-H(489)".  I can't find the part with the "(489)" at the end.  Looking at the spec sheet, the last three digits are labeled special code, and if it's present it means it's a "Customer special requirement".  I can't find any other info on it.  Can I use one labeled HF25F 012-H?  Or does the customer special requirement actually changed specs that will effect it's operation?  Follow up question, does anyone know where I can buy one that doesn't ship direct from China?  I'd like to have my microwave working again before New Years...

[bob91343]

Maybe you can repair the relay.

[fzabkar]

https://www.loxone.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/13/2017/02/Subminiature-Highpower-Relay-Specs.pdf

I can't see any customer specific options, but I would check for the presence of a snubber diode across the coil pins on the PCB. Some relays may integrate the snubber diode inside the package, in which case there would be a polarity concern (but this would be unusual).

ISTM that you could use any suitable relay, provided that you would be prepared to do some custom wiring and mounting.

[teste33]

I have the exact same issue that hit my Whirlpool microwave. How did you end up fixing it?

[bob91343]

Ignore the code.  It's likely something trivial unrelated to its performance.

[Emrys]

Sorry for bumping this old topic, but I have a bit of helpful advice for anyone else who finds this while repairing their microwave.

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I accidentally damaged this same relay while fixing the switches in my microwave. I looked into replacing the relay, and found that the original part is a pain to get and it takes a long time to ship here.

I found a very similar relay that will probably work as a replacement at Mouser (mouser part # 769-ALF1T12 ). I ordered one to have on hand just in case the fix I describe below ever fails. The coil resistance is a little lower -- 160 ohm vs the original's 288 -- but I expect that probably won't cause any issues.

FYI - these are not pin to pin compatible -- it will take some work to 'adapt' the new relay, but my board had enough room to glue the relay down right next to where the old one was - so I expect it shouldn't be that hard of a job to extend the pins to the board.
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Once I ordered the new part, I decided to see what exactly went wrong with the relay -- I found that the outer shell broke off very easily with a small screwdriver inserted from the top (same side as the two tabs). After snapping off the whole cover around the sides, I could easily see the coil and the issue - for me, the coil wire had snapped off one pin (because the pin started to come out of the case).

Fortunately, there was enough slack for me to pull the wire back to the pin and solder it down. My digital microscope really helped there -- those wires are tiny!!

Anyways - long story short, I found it fairly easy to fix the relay, but I also found a replacement that wasn't that expensive or hard to find. Hope this helps someone else who runs into similar issues.