Electronics > Repair

miller dynasty what is precharge relay

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coppercone2:
you want this for PCB and dremel

https://www.amazon.com/dremel-rubber-polishing-bits/s?k=dremel+rubber+polishing+bits

coppercone2:
well I got the coating off the boost board, unpleasant work.

After it sun dries for a while I will bake it in PCB oven and then see if it works.. its always possible the coating was bad or there was a tiny tin whisker or something under the coating on that card, scrubbing and ultrasonic might have improved something  :-+

or perhaps it failed more to where its obvious what the problem is

DisasterNow:
I already have those inserts for the dremel, I should be able to clean the pads well before soldering the two chips.

For your electronic board, let me know if it will work well  :-+

coppercone2:
well cleaning it off aint do anything really

the only thing it works at is giving me a killer migraine

coppercone2:
I think how it works is when the 15V rail is stabilized on the card, it turns on the transistor that lets the relay drain. Because the transistors connected to the relay, the base of one of them seems to go to VDD, thought a resistor?

So I wonder if something is dragging down the 15V rail. It seems to be the output of the LDO on the card. And I think that LDO is connected to the output, and the input is the BUS.



the 15V LDO that is connected to one of the transistors for the relay driver is dead stable at 15V. As far as I know, the 30V powers the relay. That one was stable too, I think. I need to figure out exactly what is providing power to the relay, and see if thats stable when its clicking. I don't get what it could be. The circuit is mad annoying to trace out. But I think the relay is connected to a rail, through a resistor, and the other side of the relay is connected to the boost board.. so if I probe ahead of that resitor, I should be able to see if the rail that powers it is sagging, or if a switch on the low side is opening and closing. or if the card is providing current,




because from the looks of things, out put and input is confused on the data sheet. The 15V LDO output, is connected to a pin labeled "input" on the manual!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |O

I think they copy paste it from the fucking main board and forgot to adjust polarity... let me see... thats right... both PC2 mainboard and PC10 have RC1 listed as "output 810VDC". Of course the little inverter board is not generating 810VDC ~!~!@@@@ :wtf: wow that ws driving me up a fucking wall >:( |O . high quality unverified documentation  >:(

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