A lot has already been said but in general for every APC SmartUPS I've looked at :
- The screws holding the MOSFETS in are hex head not torx. You can remove them by removing one row at a time, then passing the allen key through the holes to get to the next row without de-soldering the heatsinks.
- There's no heatsink compound because you want maximum electrical conductivity to the heatsink
- You *may* have damaged the MOSFET driver circuit, but that should use off the shelf parts.
- The rest of the circuitry is usually powered by a small 24V->12V/5V SMPS. You may have damaged that converter, but odds on the downstream stuff has survived.
- The charging circuit uses the MOSFETs as diodes, but also relies on the inductance of the transformers to operate as a boost converter. It's pretty clever.
- You will very likely have smoked the main 24V rail filter cap. These are special, super low impedance electros and if you replace it with something "off the shelf" it's likely it'll die quickly under load.
The voltage divider that measures the battery voltage might have damaged the H-Bridge controller ASIC, but it's pretty high impedance so you might have gotten away with it.
To test it, I'd be applying mains through a dim-bulb tester (maybe a 40W light bulb in series with the input) rather than powering it from the DC side. You could then look at the waveforms on the MOSFETs and associated driver chip with a scope to see if the PWM ASIC has survived. If that's dead then it's scrap.
I had an old SU2200 fail where the MOSFET driver shorted and caused all the high side MOSFETs to release the magic smoke, but that was through-hole with discrete high side drivers and I could rebuild it piece by piece. Yours is a lot newer and uses the integrated MOSFET driver.
There's a schematic around somewhere for the "Grey Wolf", which is slightly older, but the topology is usually the same. See if you can find the schematic for an E1732-E5. It's an early SUA 1500 model, but they don't seem to change much in the actual inverter.