Is this monitor PSU fried? (Acer XB271HU, possible lightning damage)

[exscape]

Good news! I'm not done with it, but it seems the repair will be successful.
I made a bodge repair and it started up and looked just fine! However, there are two things I need to fix for it to truly feel repaired; I just wanted to check if a proper repair of replacing just the C200 transistor and the output caps had a chance of working.

1) I replaced the transistor with another C200 found in another monitor (in worse condition than this one). Interestingly the pinout was mislabeled on the PCB as EBC; I measured it to ensure it was indeed ECB as expected.
However, the middle pad was a bit burnt (only about 1/5 of the pad area still exists) out so I figure it's probably a good idea to insert a small wire between the center pad (collector) and the big resistor it connects to. The contact is good now, but it might not be in the future.

2) I used 220 uF 25 V output caps instead of 330 uF 35 V (the output voltage is 12.1 V) as I happened to have a couple fresh ones over at home, just to see if it would come alive -- so now I'm going to order the proper caps.

All in all, unless I screw something up this monitor should be fixed in a few days. Thanks for all the help!

[wasedadoc]

Be sure to use a good quality capacitor with low ESR.

[exscape]

Be sure to use a good quality capacitor with low ESR.

Yep, replacing with Rubycon caps.

[kylesb]

Found this old thread and hope the OP sees this post and can comment on how he got the monitor case opened up to access the internals of the monitor.  I have scoured the internet and cannot find any help in disassembly of this monitor.

I have a "white screen of death" xb271hu predator monitor and just wanna have a look inside to see if there is anything noticeable for repair reasons (bad caps) and check cabling connections.  The monitor is "alive" in that a computer connected via hdmi cable gets ID info of the monitor, but display is defective WSOD. I have setup my account to accept emails so take that route in responding if possible.

[exscape]

Found this old thread and hope the OP sees this post and can comment on how he got the monitor case opened up to access the internals of the monitor.  I have scoured the internet and cannot find any help in disassembly of this monitor.

I have a "white screen of death" xb271hu predator monitor and just wanna have a look inside to see if there is anything noticeable for repair reasons (bad caps) and check cabling connections.  The monitor is "alive" in that a computer connected via hdmi cable gets ID info of the monitor, but display is defective WSOD. I have setup my account to accept emails so take that route in responding if possible.

Hey!
I figured I'd respond here in case it helps others. I can send a PM but can't find how to send an actual e-mail (nor your address, of course). This should trigger a notification e-mail anyway if you're subscribed.

I don't remember the exact steps, but I'm like 98% sure you just need to unhook the stand, place the monitor on something soft with the screen downwards, and use a spudger (or screwdriver, though almost certainly you'll cause cosmetic damage) to open it up around the edges, on the back side that is. There's a 2 mm or so thick plastic border, and inside that is a big piece of plastic that makes up the entire back, that you can pop out, once you get it unhooked all around.

Once you get it open, just about everything except the panel itself is in a big metal box, held up by a bunch of tape(!), so you'll need to remove the tape and carefully remove all cabling to the panel. I used small sticky notes to number the cables so I wouldn't mix them up.

Here are a couple of pictures I took at the time, all only relevant after that first step.

https://imgur.com/a/jlPRnJf

Also, FWIW, I'm using the very same monitor right now, and every day since I repaired it, so the repair was very successful in my case.

[kylesb]

Many thank for the ultra prompt reply with pics. I had a look at the case/housing and would have taken your suggested approach maybe, but it never hurts to get experienced guidance if some is available, again thank you much.

[Paceguy]

Thanks everyone!
I've gotten started. I think the transistor is dead -- my transistor knowledge is extremely rusty but these values don't make sense, right?

I'm using the multimeter in diode mode and checking various combinations.
The results are:

+ on base, - on emitter: OL
+ on base, - on collector: 0.72 V
- on base, + on emitter: OL
- on base, + on collector: 1.60 V

Assuming it's dead, any ideas how to find a replacement?
It's marked K946 / C200 / Y (three lines).

The bulging caps are probably also dead, as the multimeter jumps between 15 uF and OL 1-2 times a second. I've only tested one so far though.
The cap closest to the transistor is likely fine as it reads as almost exactly 330 uF and looks fine.

Edit: All but one of the bulging caps give crap readings. I'll replace all of them anyway of course, assuming I can find a transistor replacement as well.

Did you check emitter to collector? should be OL in both directions. The bulging caps are a sure sign that they should be replaced.

[exscape]

Did you check emitter to collector? should be OL in both directions. The bulging caps are a sure sign that they should be replaced.

This is an old thread, and the issue is solved (see page 2)! I replaced the caps and the transistor.

[kylesb]

Well, there's no joy in mudville, mighty casey has struck out,  PS board looked nice and clean with nice looking caps and no burn marks, did not probe since I have no schematic nor voltaghe specs. Could not get processor/signal board out, it's like the heat sink sponge is stuck strong to metal housing and was afraid of putting too much stress on board to remove it, plus the internals of my monitor are dramatically different from your pics, no ribbon cables as in your pics just one cable from signal board to display with maybe 12-15  wires and not a classic ribbon cable.  Tried replugging all cables and that's about all I have w/o service info.  I know there is some activity on signal board since the monitor is recognized by my laptop.  Oh well, thanks again for posting pics.

In the fwiw category, the back panel came off readily using a credit card or thick guitar pick (I used both I think) inserted in a direction perpendicular to back of panel and from the back side along the smaller dimension side of the monitor housing near some rear connector openings (power plug opening) where I was able to reach thru the back panel and grasp the back of the panel and pull up while sliding credit card in slot from back side into the separation line/slot. Had the back panel off in just a few minutes, it came off remarkably easy using this technique.