Pace PPS-5 Desoldering Station

[jmgallag]

I recently picked up a Pace PPS-5 desoldering station. All the bits seem to work, except the fitting that attaches the hose to the station is missing. I had no luck finding it on the web, not even a picture. Pretty old, from the early 80's, I think.

Does anyone know where such a fitting might still be for sale, or have any they would sell?

Alternatively, if anyone has a Pace station of this vintage, would they be willing to photograph the fitting and post the pics?

Thanks,
Jim

[barbeque]

Hi Jim!

I just picked up a PPS-5 myself (found this while looking for more info on it) and took a quick picture of the fitting. A little afraid to remove it from the line right now, but hopefully this helps.

I can take some measurements if it helps further. If I had to guess, it is probably shared with some medical equipment. Please let the thread know if you figure out what it's called. Some kind of bayonet fitting.

I see it on the parts fiche pictures that the Pace spare parts page mentions, but so far haven't been able to find it in their listing.

edit: I found this parts catalogue: http://www.gsaservice.com/PACE_Consumables_Spare_Parts_Catalog.pdf

which says that this bit is two pieces, the "rear seal" (1213-0001-P1) and the "rear seal retainer assembly." (4010-0106-P1)

It doesn't look right, probably because this fiche is for an SX-70 handpiece (mine is a "DUAL PATH SODR-X-TRACTOR," P/N 6010-0033-01). But that is probably the terminology Pace themselves would use in a vintage parts fiche... although I also don't see a seal in this fitting of any sort.

I am considering adding one of the later-model "visi-filters" to the vacuum line to see if I can preserve the vacuum pump's life in case I can't source the older filters as well.

edit 2: It's definitely not 4010-0106-P1, that thing is huge and has a spring and a rubber seal. No bayonet at all.

[jmgallag]

Thank you! That is exactly what I hoped for. I think I can 3D print a replacement. 

Jim

[helius]

For those who are searching for these old and obsolete parts, the correct part for the bayonet air connector is 1263-0004 "Twist Lock Fitting".
The catalog mentioned above is much too new. You instead need an older one:
Try this address.

[barbeque]

Thanks for the post, but your link doesn't seem to work. 1989 seems like it's about the right age for this machine, so I'm sure it's the right catalogue.

[helius]

The catalog you posted is from 2007.

Thanks for the post, but your link doesn't seem to work.

I believe that site may have disabled read access.
I would upload the catalog here, but it exceeds the 2MB limit for this forum.
Try this url instead.

[barbeque]

Yes, I couldn't find any period-accurate catalogues so I went with squinting at what I could find and hoping Pace were fairly conservative in their development.

New link works great, thanks again!

[Lenny]

The links are unfortunately no longer available. Does anyone still have the old parts catalogue?

I would like to know if there is a seal behind the vacuum connection (behind the twist lock).

[Shock]

The links are unfortunately no longer available. Does anyone still have the old parts catalogue?
I would like to know if there is a seal behind the vacuum connection (behind the twist lock).

Here are one of the documents.

[Shock]

Here is the other (there is an attachment limit per post).

[edavid]

Has anyone had any luck finding replacement carbon vanes for the PPS-5 vacuum pump?

I don't know if they are the same as the 1338-0001-P4 vanes listed in the 1989 Price Book.

[Lenny]

Many thanks for the files.

Unfortunately there is also no expo drawing shown there.

I wonder if a gasket  (o-ring) is used in the connection.
Please see Picture.

[Lenny]

I shot the device very cheap on ebay. The connection was broken off.

Even with explosion drawings it would be hard to get spare parts. Therefore I have drawn and printed the part. Works quite well.

Now I am surprised that the vacuum is not particularly strong! How strong should it be? Does anyone know the flow rate of the original pump?

[coppercone2]

Does anyone know how imporant the surface finish of the things the graphite vanes push against is?

I took my PP5-5 apart because its all kind of messed up and thing the vanes spin in is a little scratched up inside. I am wondering how big a defect this is.

Is it at all possible to clean it up by hand with some light sand paper, or is that going to just make it worse (I assume it does, but this thing is weird, since I never saw spinning graphite before)?

Can I use a drill insert hone on it maybe? (automotive hone).

[helius]

Do the vanes have springs pushing them out? If they do, you may be able to lap the pump inner surface and then they will wear in against it. Use a flap brush?

[coppercone2]

no, the vanes have nothing pushing them out.

Should they have springs there?
Also, what is a flap brush??

I thought this might work https://www.mcmaster.com/honing-tools/

I imagined the one that expands, I have no idea about the one with balls on it.. that one seems hard to use on a shaft that is not deep. This is only an inch deep or so. you just stuff in some grapes into a hole and it makes it round 

Do you mean the flap brush that is the brillo with sand paper like I am used to? I figured that would just screw it up, but I know nothing about those. Should it be slightly over sized so it wedges in there like a hone or should it be under sized so you manually maneuver it around the inner surface?

[helius]

Like you said, carbon vanes aren't that common anymore and I'm not versed in them. I believe, however, that they are forced outward centrifugally against the inner pump surface.
So for them to work well they need the surface to be a true cylinder. Of two possible asymmetries, I think longitudinal skew is worse. Some degree of elliptical eccentricity may be tolerable, but none is ideal.
The front and back "wear plates" are also carbon and those should be removed to protect them from metal dust.

Manually moving the polishing wheel gives you more control over any high spots that you can see. But to keep the surface true I think you would need rouge/blue spot to locate them exactly. And you might not want blue getting on the carbon. When using a cylinder hone you would need a way to keep the tool perpendicular to avoid skew.

One idea is to drive the flap wheel with the pump's own motor shaft? I would put a spacer washer at the back of the shaft, and an external retaining ring on the front to hold the (arbor hole) polishing wheel in place.

The other thing that bothers me is the ports. You don't want to erode metal from the ports or push grit into them since that could screw up the seal.

just spitballing, of course I've never done this.

[keegs]

So barbeque actually hurled his PPS-5 into my vehicle the other night, and I accidentally stumbled across this thread. As I have no self-control and severe ADHD, I did a little bit of vigilante caliper-ing and whipped this up, if you have access to a 3D printer. Not sure what finding these original bayonet fittings is like in 2023, but one of these and a bit of sandpaper or a file ought to get you going right quick.

(Oh incidentally these are also comically trivial to print, so if anyone happens to need a bunch and doesn't know someone local with a 3D printer, I'm happy to throw like five or them or whatever in a bubble mailer and ship them wherever for the cost of postage.)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5779188