Plus will add the scopes normally used high voltages, much more than polymer is rated for. Just use good brand aluminium electrolytics, rated for 10k hours at 105C, and when buying them get same height or similar, same diameter or slightly smaller, and higher voltage than old ones. Generally higher voltage is bigger can, which works well, and in most cases you will only get radial types, and then sleeve the one lead, and extend it around the can, to make it roughly axial, with a short wire soldered to it as extension. Stick down to the board after cleaning, using mirror silicone, as that is a very cheap non acetoxy silicone, and thus does not harm copper, but is good at holding to PCB and plastic parts.
The originals normally are, to a great extent, 85C rated, regular ESR, so low ESR ones might run rectifier diodes a little hotter, and make the ripple current in the transformer windings higher. But really not a worry, and if critical, say high current applications, where the original diodes ran hot enough to discolour the board, the diodes might need to be upgraded as well, to more robust modern ones.But that is really on a case by case basis, most of the time the board traces, and the transformer windings, provide enough resistance anyway.