PS3 fat delid like a Pro and fix YLOD caused by over heating

[dvd4me]

This is a fat PS3 with YLOD issue.

First cleaned and checked with the capacitor boost ( adding caps beside the Tokin ones) no success.
This means the caps are not at the origin of the YLOD failure.

Only thing left is to de-lid and enable additional pressure on the silicon die to try to fix the 1-st level interconnection.
This is the only reason these units are failing with the YLOD because the heat affects the die connection to substrate.

If the IHS ( integrated heat spreader ) loses heat efficiency, because of aged thermal paste between the die and IHS, then the high temperatures will affect the 1-st level connection. It's not PCB de-lamination, it's not that hot to get affected there.
I believe almost everybody missed the 1-st level potential problems. It may be a bad batch of epoxy that is expanding too much and brakes the connections.
Thus the necessity of pressing down directly on the die to compensate for the bad connection. This can only be done if you delid and remove all  the support ( silicone or the white glue ) for the IHS to rest on the substrate instead of directly on the die.
This is basically what I have done with 3 PS3 fat backwards compatible units.
I do not have more fat PS3 to test but I am confident this is the way to restore those units.
I have played hours with the one i first fixed and still boots up every time and no freezing during the games. The other ones are still booting fine even if I keep them off.
Because of the liquid metal compound the temperatures are very good.
You only need to have a thin film of that on the dye, no visible droplet.
On the IHS the liquid metal is not even needed, since I could not spread-it because of surface being quite repellent, it did not stick. I left the IHS almost uncovered by any liquid metal compound.

After all is assembled back, I put the hair drier in the back of the PS3 and let-it run for half hour.
Hair drier is not capable of re-flowing, remember it's safe for your hair, it will not damage any PS3 component. Compare hair drier with the reflow station, that's intense heat and the board survives.
The real reason the hair dryer "fix" actually works it's because it's concentrating the heating, thru the heat sink, directly to the die, and not necessarily to the solder balls to the PCB.
Heating up is also good to expand and release any air pockets trapped in the liquid metal and heat sink compound. 
I did not wait to cool down, power on repeatedly until there was no more overheating shutdown, it just stayed ON !!!! Remember this was YLOD initially.
That's it folks, keep repairing these wonderful units.
Tools are from amazon, the excellent painting tools and the dollar store bubble liquid to make the tool slide like butter.