Re-covering Marshall Amplifier - Which Adhesive for Tolex

[paul_g_787]

Hi Everyone. I am looking for some advice.

I have recently acquired an old Marshall Bass State B30 which is in a sorry state and thought I would use it as a good opportunity for my first cabinet refurbishment.

I have already made good progress:

• I have already repaired the actual amplifier and it is ready to fit back along with the original speaker.
• I also have all of the parts for the cabinet ordered from Marshall.
• I have sanded and re-painted the shelf, rear panel and baffle.
• I have also re-covered the baffle with new grill cloth and a new Marshall logo (the logo was pricey but the original was gone).
• The cabinet itself has been stripped ready.
• I have the new corners, feet and handle to go on and all the screws.

Now I have come to the stage where I need to apply the new Tolex. And this is where I need some help.

I cannot find or decide which adhesive to use.

Marshall have said that any water based adhesive will suffice but were unable to tell me exactly which glue they use.

I don't think standard PVA will work as I think I need something that dries a little quicker to avoid the Tolex lifting as, however I also don't think something that sets instantly will work either.

What do you all use when covering a cabinet with Tolex?

[BreakingOhmsLaw]

I used regular wood glue (PVA) for it back in the days. Sticks best to both the wood and the vinyl. Rough the vinyl with sand paper before glueing.

[themadhippy]

contact adhesive, apply to both surfaces,let it dry and  join.

[paul_g_787]

contact adhesive, apply to both surfaces,let it dry and  join.

I think that Marshall must use some type of contact adhesive as watching their video on youtube, they just spray both the Tolex and the wood, put it on and roller it flat.

However the one they use appears to be quite forgiving as it is instant but gives them a few seconds to shift before setting.

Is there any particular one you can recommend?

[floobydust]

Always used contact cement, but it's totally unforgiving.  Coat both surfaces, if you stick it down crooked, you will not be able to lift the piece back up and move it around. Screaming at it might work.
The water-based contact cements are not as good as vintage high VOC ones that also gave you a high from the fumes lol.
I have not tried carpet adhesive. You could also make three test pieces to get the hang of it before doing the amp.

Consider using two people, one to keep slight tension on the piece but up at an angle off the slab, while the other person works the roller so no wrinkles.

[themadhippy]

However the one they use appears to be quite forgiving as it is instant but gives them a few seconds to shift before setting.

The newer stuff is heat activated ,as it cools it sets ,to restick you just heat it up and try again.

if you stick it down crooked, you will not be able to lift the piece back up and move it around

The trick is to use thin  strips of wood between the material and surface so the 2 dont come into contact until you want  them 5:40 into this video explains it better

[David Hess]

Contact cement is my first thought but 3M 77 spray adhesive might also work well.

[paul_g_787]

After studying the information given to me I think this might be a good choice. It is similar to the ones suggested.

https://cpc.farnell.com/bostik/30811853/spray-adhesive-500ml/dp/SA02561


Datasheet:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1504140.pdf

[bill_c]

" 3M 77 spray adhesive might also work well"
I haven't seen Tolex, but if it has any more memory than a sheet of paper, it will lift over time if you try to bend the film around the corners.  3M has a 90 spray adhesive with a bit more strength, but I haven't tried it that way.

Stay away from any water based contact adhesive, the glue turns to dust in less than 3 years in any use.   

[paul_g_787]

I am also having a hard time removing the old adhesive.

I have no idea what it is, it is a thick black adhesive that Marshall use. It is still tacky even after all these years.

Any tips on removing it?

I have tried washing in hot soapy water, washing in sugar soap, sticky label remover. None of these touched it.

I have tried scraping with a wallpaper scraper but this took over 25 minutes to do one of the edges, let alone the rest of the amp.

I have tried sanding it but the sandpaper just sticks and rips.

[themadhippy]

wd40,nail varnish remover/acetone  and  ipa  would be my weapons of choice.Also maybe try heating the gunk up with a hot air blower  to see if it makes life easier

[paul_g_787]

I tried Meths, White Spirit, Acetone. Nothing! Wouldn't budge.

I found some very old paint stripper in the garage and it took most of it off but left a thin layer still.

Marshall came back to me and said they use an industrial solvent to strip the cabinet before sanding but that is all they could tell me.

Then I tried petrol! Put it in a spray bottle and scrubbed with a nail brush and wallpaper scraper! Came straight off no effort!!

Just need some glue now!

[duckduck]

Uncle Doug uses DAP Weldwood contact cement, V&S 185 spray adhesive, and V&S 581 foam & fabric spray adhesive: