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Recovering SMD parts for recycling, pain in the.....

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Lightages:
I had a couple of routers die recently. They happen to have some nice parts on the, specifically some TXCOs. The problem is that they are SMD parts and appear to be the only parts on the boards that were glued down before soldering. I tried heating one up with my hot air gun and all I accomplished was killing the part on not getting the part off of the board.

What glues are used typically? Cyanoacrylites that can be dissolved first with acetone? What other types?

I would really like to recover these parts. I know of Chipquik but it is a bit expensive for most parts.

Any other tips for salvaging parts from boards?

Alex Eisenhut:
I use two irons (Hakko 936 with 907 handles and some big tips) and bring the heat from all sides at once. I don't know why those parts would be glued down. If it's the usual 5x7mm or smaller oscillator case, the two-iron approach should work.

But what is the reason to want to do this? Are parts very expensive in your part of the world?

Lightages:
Parts aren't that expensive, it's just that I prefer to recover special parts if I can. The biggest problem here is availability. It can take me months for mail to arrive so if I see some good and relatively rare parts it is nice to recycle them. Also a TCXO that has been running for years will be really stable now, maybe not so stable after being ripped from a circuit board.

mazurov:
High speed digital boards typically have several power/ground planes which conduct heat very well. You won't be able to counter it with the soldering iron since the contact area will be too small. The easy solution is to increase the heating area so that the copper planes that were stealing the heat will work to your advantage. Use a preheater of some kind - plain old hot plate heated up to 20-30 degrees below melting point of solder is all that is necessary. Place your board on the plate, wait 30 seconds then solder as usual. This -> http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/ is even better. Here is mine -> https://plus.google.com/114645657478782700234/posts/hm3boiCHiqE .

mazurov:
High speed digital boards typically have several power/ground planes which conduct heat very well. You won't be able to counter it with the soldering iron since the contact area will be too small. The easy solution is to increase the heating area so that the copper planes that were stealing the heat will work to your advantage. Use a preheater of some kind - plain old hot plate heated up to 20-30 degrees below melting point of solder is all that is necessary. Place your board on the plate, wait 30 seconds then solder as usual. This -> http://mightyohm.com/blog/2009/01/diy-pid-controlled-soldering-hotplate/ is even better. Here is mine -> https://plus.google.com/114645657478782700234/posts/hm3boiCHiqE .

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