Repair Fluke silicone test leads.

[viper]

First, I realize I might get flamed here as I would lose the CAT rating on my leads, but these things are stupid expensive and I have 3 sets doing the same thing.  The wire inside is breaking right at the strain relief. I am curious if I can buy other reliefs to add, remold something over the area once I cut it open and solder a repair, etc. 
These are the Suregrip quick change leads and I used them all the time with different ends.  The clamp ends are game changers for me. 

I am willing to live dangerous to get my leads going again.  I am sure it will keep happening.  The biggest thing for me is these silicone leads can be at 0F and work like normal.  Not stiff like PVC. 

[minifloat]

The wire is breaking at the strain relief, probe end or banana end?

If banana end, would invest in a pair of nice right-angled banana plugs. With strain relief again if possible. Safety type or not is your safety, taste and practicality choice.

Pro tip: keep a set of spare probe leads in your toolbox. No usage interruption on-site.

br, mf

[viper]

Not sure how to answer that.  The wire is breaking inside, right at the strain relief at the probe side of the lead.  Love to chop off the wire and re-end, but I need quality there.  I test 480v commonly.  May retire some stuff to bench leads at lower voltage but sometimes I am testing caps at near that voltage anyway. 

Annoyed Fluke didn't do better.. 

[bdunham7]

I use the TL175 Twist-Guard type with thread-on alligator clips, but those don't work with all the nice ends you can get for the TL220/221 style. 

Get the Probemaster 9000 series test leads, they're guaranteed and repairable if you wreck them.  Just be careful to order them with the ends that you want (they have quite a variety) and keep in mind they'll custom make them however you like--length, ends, etc.  I especially like the retractable sheath banana plugs because they work with shrouded accessories or they just plug into any banana jack.

https://probemaster.com/9000-series-modular/

[Black Phoenix]

First, I realize I might get flamed here as I would lose the CAT rating on my leads, but these things are stupid expensive and I have 3 sets doing the same thing.  The wire inside is breaking right at the strain relief. I am curious if I can buy other reliefs to add, remold something over the area once I cut it open and solder a repair, etc. 
These are the Suregrip quick change leads and I used them all the time with different ends.  The clamp ends are game changers for me. 

I am willing to live dangerous to get my leads going again.  I am sure it will keep happening.  The biggest thing for me is these silicone leads can be at 0F and work like normal.  Not stiff like PVC.

TL224s right? I can source them at 100HKD the pair (70+30 shipping).

And yes they are original, not fake.

[JJ_023]

I use the TL175 Twist-Guard type with thread-on alligator clips, but those don't work with all the nice ends you can get for the TL220/221 style. 

Get the Probemaster 9000 series test leads, they're guaranteed and repairable if you wreck them.  Just be careful to order them with the ends that you want (they have quite a variety) and keep in mind they'll custom make them however you like--length, ends, etc.  I especially like the retractable sheath banana plugs because they work with shrouded accessories or they just plug into any banana jack.

https://probemaster.com/9000-series-modular/

I think they make great probes but I personally prefer the 8000 series.  Why did you pick the 9000 series?

[rsjsouza]

https://probemaster.com/9000-series-modular/

I think they make great probes but I personally prefer the 8000 series.  Why did you pick the 9000 series?

Most probably because the 9000 series is almost identical to what the OP currently uses?

Fluke TL221

[Stray Electron]

   I'm sure that the CAT rating legally prevents you from doing any repairs to the cable so you're going to have to cut the cable off and reconnect it to the probe or connector; or lose the CAT rating.

  All of that said, wires flexing right at connectors and breaking the inner conductors is a very old and common problem. Many of the better cable back in the day had a spring or some sort of stiff plastic on that part of the cable to prevent sharp bends and breaking of the conductors.  On cables that didn't have any sort of strain relief and where I though they needed one, I have wrapped them with unwaxed dental floss to form a tapered strain relief and then coated that with Plasti Dip.

   https://www.amazon.com/plasti-dip/s?k=plasti+dip

[viper]

[/quote]

TL224s right? I can source them at 100HKD the pair (70+30 shipping).

And yes they are original, not fake.
[/quote]

Where?  I would have to double check the length but yes, the same style.  Mine are quite long, maybe 3m but not sure I need that for most things. 

As for strain relief, I think Fluke just missed on this because they use the same for PVC and silicone wires.  PVC is stiff enough to provide some resistance but silicones are like limp noodles.  More thought was needed there.  It sucks because I am ultra careful with my leads for this reason and it still happened. 

[tooki]

You haven’t listed exactly what model you’re using, and your terminology seems nonstandard, but since you say “quick change” I assume you mean modular ones where the probes and the cords are separate, with the cords simply having safety banana plugs at both ends. If so: you do realize you don’t have to use Fluke leads, even if you want to keep using your Fluke probes and clips? You can get leads from Probe Master, or Hirschmann, or Pomona (Fluke’s own probe/cord manufacturer), or Stäubli, or Cal-Test, or Electro-PJP, or Keysight, or any number of manufacturers. But also, if they are separate leads, you can get shrouded safety banana plugs with which to repair your existing leads while maintaining your CAT rating.

[bdunham7]

But also, if they are separate leads, you can get shrouded safety banana plugs with which to repair your existing leads while maintaining your CAT rating.

There are a lot of them available that I wouldn't recommend if you need a CAT-rated result, but these seem to fit the bill:

https://www.muellerelectric.com/product_files/852/DS-BU-32603-@.pdf

[viper]

But also, if they are separate leads, you can get shrouded safety banana plugs with which to repair your existing leads while maintaining your CAT rating.

There are a lot of them available that I wouldn't recommend if you need a CAT-rated result, but these seem to fit the bill:

https://www.muellerelectric.com/product_files/852/DS-BU-32603-@.pdf

Thanks so much for the helpful ideas and links guys!  I am under no 'requirement' to maintain a CAT rating, but I want them safe. 

In the provided link, I fail to see much for strain relief?  Id like to aid the issue if possible.  Are these ends found at places like digikey, or?  I'd prob just get a pile of them.  We have several sets now of silicone wires we can use to make other fun stuff.  I'd like to just buy new Fluke leads and move on but confident this issue will just continue. 

[bdunham7]

In the provided link, I fail to see much for strain relief?  Id like to aid the issue if possible. 

There are different theories as to strain relief designs and I wouldn't know which is best.  Obviously the Fluke setup is a fail for some reason--this is a super common issue.  But with the Mueller design, if it does fail you can just take them apart, cut an inch off and redo them again--but I suspect they won't fail.  Mouser/Digi-Key/Newark have them.  If you don't care about CAT ratings, there are much cheaper ones that I use for bench patch cords and so forth.  You can find them on Amazon, AliExpress, etc.  I prefer the retractable style, but they're much, much harder to find in the slim inline version.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832103052649.html

[Bud]

Are you sure they broken at strain relief? There are Fluke probes that break inside the molded probe where the wire is crimped to the tip. I posted an autopsy of such case with a recommendation how to fix, will post a link if I find where I posted it.

[TaylorD93]

Ive had trouble with multiple sets of Fluke TL175 leads, they go "bad" at the strain relief at the end of the probe and read in the 10s - 100s of Ohms.

Given the price its disappointing. admittedly after kind of "twisting" the wires around as they enter the probe the resistance drops down to less than 0.1 Ohm. One set was replaced under warranty, but a 2nd set which i bought with my Fluke 87V just 13 months ago have started to play up (making the third set).

My Fluke 115 i bought about 8 years ago came with a set of TL76 (i think) leads which had the fixed 4mm tips (not the later ones which unscrew) and they have lasted years.

[Black Phoenix]

TL224s right? I can source them at 100HKD the pair (70+30 shipping).

And yes they are original, not fake.
[/quote]

Where?  I would have to double check the length but yes, the same style.  Mine are quite long, maybe 3m but not sure I need that for most things. 

As for strain relief, I think Fluke just missed on this because they use the same for PVC and silicone wires.  PVC is stiff enough to provide some resistance but silicones are like limp noodles.  More thought was needed there.  It sucks because I am ultra careful with my leads for this reason and it still happened.
[/quote]

3M? Then it is not the TL224s, they are smaller. Then I don't know which leads you are using.

Replying to the were, it is a shop in Hong Kong that I know the owner. It is were I get my probes, leads and accessories for my DMMs.

[tooki]

But also, if they are separate leads, you can get shrouded safety banana plugs with which to repair your existing leads while maintaining your CAT rating.

There are a lot of them available that I wouldn't recommend if you need a CAT-rated result, but these seem to fit the bill:

https://www.muellerelectric.com/product_files/852/DS-BU-32603-@.pdf

Thanks so much for the helpful ideas and links guys!  I am under no 'requirement' to maintain a CAT rating, but I want them safe. 

In the provided link, I fail to see much for strain relief?  Id like to aid the issue if possible.  Are these ends found at places like digikey, or?  I'd prob just get a pile of them.  We have several sets now of silicone wires we can use to make other fun stuff.  I'd like to just buy new Fluke leads and move on but confident this issue will just continue.

Can you please confirm once and for all that your leads are modular (=removable cords)?

[tooki]

But also, if they are separate leads, you can get shrouded safety banana plugs with which to repair your existing leads while maintaining your CAT rating.

There are a lot of them available that I wouldn't recommend if you need a CAT-rated result, but these seem to fit the bill:

https://www.muellerelectric.com/product_files/852/DS-BU-32603-@.pdf

Well, I did specify ones that maintain the CAT rating. If the plug isn’t specified with a CAT rating, assume it has none…

What are ones you wouldn’t recommend, and why?

[tooki]

In the provided link, I fail to see much for strain relief?

Right on the second page you see the strain relief. It’s the white conical thing that clamps the wire.

InAre these ends found at places like digikey, or?  I'd prob just get a pile of them.

Any reputable electronics supplier carries some decent brand. I listed a bunch of brands already.

We have several sets now of silicone wires we can use to make other fun stuff.

Beware that not all silicone wire is test lead wire. Modern test lead wire has two layers within the insulation, so that you can see whether the insulation is damaged. (The inner layer is usually white, since that stands out from underneath both red and black. White wire usually has a black inner layer.) The stuff sold specifically as test lead wire tends to have thicker, tougher insulation than the silicone wire sold as ordinary high-temperature wire.  (For example, Pomona, which as I said is actually Fluke, sells very nice, affordable test lead wire you can use to make custom cables.)

I'd like to just buy new Fluke leads and move on but confident this issue will just continue.

Why stick with Fluke if you’re unhappy with the failure rate?!? I gave you a whole list of alternatives you could buy.

[bdunham7]

What are ones you wouldn’t recommend, and why?

As I had posted above, I use these and like them, but they have no CAT rating.  I don't know how the CAT ratings work for test leads, but perhaps retractable sheaths aren't permitted anyway.  For me the advantage is that they work with older ancient equipment.  There are also fixed versions like this readily available.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832103052649.html

Can you please confirm once and for all that your leads are modular (=removable cords)?

He mentioned 'Suregrip quick change', and also that there is a 'probe end', so I'd assume TL224 with right-angle plugs on the meter end.

[tooki]

What are ones you wouldn’t recommend, and why?

As I had posted above, I use these and like them, but they have no CAT rating.  I don't know how the CAT ratings work for test leads, but perhaps retractable sheaths aren't permitted anyway.  For me the advantage is that they work with older ancient equipment.  There are also fixed versions like this readily available.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832103052649.html.

You linked those in a subsequent reply, but those show no CAT rating and expressly list a 30V AC limit, so they’re squarely outside the scope of the CAT-rated plugs I specified.

It’s unclear to me what the CAT rating system does or doesn’t allow with regards to retractable sleeves; the highest I’ve seen is CAT III 300V in one, CAT II 600V in another.

With that said, since the plug only needs to fit into the probes, not into anything else, and the fact that retractable sheaths often fail to properly engage with a safety jack (that is, the sheath often retracts), making it potentially possible to have exposed metal right near your hands, I don’t see any reason to use a retractable sheath plug here. A fixed-sheath safety banana plug is the only thing that makes sense here.

Can you please confirm once and for all that your leads are modular (=removable cords)?

He mentioned 'Suregrip quick change', and also that there is a 'probe end', so I'd assume TL224 with right-angle plugs on the meter end.

Given that people continue to respond with answers pertaining to fixed-lead probes, it’s evident that it’s not entirely clear what OP means.

Someone else already ruled out the TL224 due to the length, but I suspect you’re correct and they are TL224, but that the OP doesn't have a good feel for length. Because as best I can tell, Fluke doesn’t make any 3m multimeter leads, just 1.5m. (They sell the TL221 straight leads that come with couplers to extend existing leads.) However, there is the TL1550B test lead set intended for their megohm meters. They’re 2.6m long, and cost an eye watering $300 (set of three, including probes and alligator clips).

[Bud]

Ive had trouble with multiple sets of Fluke TL175 leads, they go "bad" at the strain relief at the end of the probe and read in the 10s - 100s of Ohms.

Check out my post below about the failure mode of TL175 probes. It is not what you think. You may be able to repair them as I suggest in my last post in that thread.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/x-raying-fluke-tl-175-probed/msg4908254/#msg4908254

[fmashockie]

Ive had trouble with multiple sets of Fluke TL175 leads, they go "bad" at the strain relief at the end of the probe and read in the 10s - 100s of Ohms.

Check out my post below about the failure mode of TL175 probes. It is not what you think. You may be able to repair them as I suggest in my last post in that thread.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/x-raying-fluke-tl-175-probed/msg4908254/#msg4908254

Doesn't have much to do with OP's post, but I saw people mentioning the twist TL-175s.  I loved them at first, and then after using them for a few months, they started to give poor continutity measurements.  It was a shame, because I liked them at first as well (and they are friggin' expensive!).  I still have them, but no longer use them.  Might have to take a closer look at them where you suggest. 

[viper]

Oh boy.  The clarify, my leads must be the TL224.  I measure them slightly longer than that, but who knows.  These leads were reclaimed from my old 337 meter and now being used on my 376fc currently.  Yes, modular.  I have several ends and bee watching for a deal on another kit for my bench FOREVER!  I just love the modular setup but will admit, there always seems to be resistance in something.


I usually use the 376 for power applications.  Automotive or 480 3P applications.  As I mentioned, I am under no 'requirement' for the CAT rating, but I want to survive to tell the story.. 

I now have a few sets of wires around so I would like to at least re-end these, but I will certainly look at the provided links for Fluke level goods. 

I will say, I have had saved searches for the TLK282 kits now for about 2yrs, trying to find a decent deal.  They just don't come!  I need to be able to do some back probing on plugs and sometimes, last ditch, you need to pierce the wire.  I need more toys on the bench.  Really hate moving stuff around.  Certain meters stay in truck, others at the bench, etc. 

[jchw4]

Oh boy.  The clarify, my leads must be the TL224.  I measure them slightly longer than that, but who knows.  These leads were reclaimed from my old 337 meter and now being used on my 376fc currently.  Yes, modular.  I have several ends and bee watching for a deal on another kit for my bench FOREVER!  I just love the modular setup but will admit, there always seems to be resistance in something.


I usually use the 376 for power applications.  Automotive or 480 3P applications.  As I mentioned, I am under no 'requirement' for the CAT rating, but I want to survive to tell the story.. 

I now have a few sets of wires around so I would like to at least re-end these, but I will certainly look at the provided links for Fluke level goods. 

I will say, I have had saved searches for the TLK282 kits now for about 2yrs, trying to find a decent deal.  They just don't come!  I need to be able to do some back probing on plugs and sometimes, last ditch, you need to pierce the wire.  I need more toys on the bench.  Really hate moving stuff around.  Certain meters stay in truck, others at the bench, etc.

Just a few days ago https://www.amazon.com/BOCEUC-Multimeter-Silicone-Electrician-Alligator/dp/B0BGJF36PY/ was selling with 50% discount.  For $12.50 it was unbeatable offer.

Feels like silicone and well made. These days it's difficult to make a silicone probe that will fail 1000V test. And personally I would never come close to anything higher than a household SMPS.