Electronics > Repair

Repair of Ryobi BCL14181H Li-Ion charger

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GraemeG - I got the diagram. Optocoupler I am ordering and more cleaning is coming prior to posting additional photos. (found 10 pack optocoupler for $5, and have no clue what to do with other 9 once this is replaced :-)
 Originally I was trying to post photos directly from the phone but they are too big.
Once it is vacuumed and images resized I will post other photos.
Rest of the board looks OK.
Eyes are not as they used to be so details are better through the camera.
Thanks everyone for input. (as for the throwing it in the trash - I would too. 220V units are expensive and wort thing is that I got it from flea market for a friend and now I feel bad for wasting his money -  hence trying to repair it)

As promised. Photos of the board before I start removing parts for verification. Will update this post with defective parts list. (Limited testing capabilities)
Nice to be getting back baby steps in electronics world

I would get red of that glue. It becomes corrosive and conductive with age.

Nice clean up job, BTW.

Yes clear the glue from around the optocoupler, ZD4 and the other corroded components. The bottom of the board looks clean and clear of any corrosion so that is promising.

You have a slightly different version to mine and others but I think the circuit diagram is probably still very close. If you compare yours with the photo in the very first post of this thread you can see that instead of a pair of separate diodes D3/D9 to rectify the secondary of the transformer, you have a single TO-220 package mounted with a small aluminium heatsink. This is a much better solution and this is how I set up mine when I repaired it.

The TO-220 package will almost certainly be a pair of diodes in a single package. You can check these 2 diodes using most multimeters using the diode test function. Fully testing ZD4 is a little harder but it is probably a 30V zener so should act like a normal diode as far as a multimeter is concerned.
You can test the optocoupler with a multimeter on diode test across the transistor (receiving side) and a second multimeter or even a battery and a resister to drive the photodiode on the transmitting side.

I just noticed in your first picture posted 3 days ago that the component beside ZD4 looks like a 3.15A fuse. On my version this is just a wire link but you should test it and replace it with the correct fuse if it is open circuit.

Also very carefully check CF1, RF1 and the link beside them. These are on the primary side of the transformer and look very corroded.

Amir can you read the part number of the TO220 package diode with the heatsink? I can see a date code of June 29, 2015 on the top of your board so this is a newer version than mine. My charger has a serial number  005624 and was made in week 4 of 2014 according to the label on the outside of the charger. What is the build date from the bottom of your unit?

It would seem that Ryobi has realised the weakness of the D3/D9 parallel diode pair that frequently fails. I am curious to hear what diode they have chosen to replace this pair.


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