Looking great there, xrunner! Any tips for restoring brushed aluminum face plates where some monster scratched it cross-grain trying to remove calibration stickers with a screwdriver ?
No not really. If it's got silk screened labels forget it. If it was clean aluminum you could brush it again with any number of materials but it wouldn't look exactly like the other panels, which may or may not matter.
The thing about those labels (cal stickers especially) is that you have to be patient with the removal (I know you know this). For example, on this project several places were so old that the old adhesive was more like petrified wood - rock hard. It literally took all night for the stuff to get soft, and then it took more than one application. But it will all come off eventually. If you get in a hurry then SCRACTH!
Fortunately the goo gone does not harm faceplates with painted labels.
Other things happen, for example on the FG 501A I wanted to remove the plastic dial for cleaning behind it, and it's held on by two little screws, just like this one. But one of the screws would not come out. It's steel into brass and they had been there from day one. I tried everything including penetrating oil but no go. I had to resort to drilling it out, and I was very nervous, but I succeeded.
I don't like the design of this older TM 500 plug-in frame, the second pass design is better. This one holds the front face plate to the frame with two screws each - top and bottom - going in from the front. Problem is the screws, once tightened, are then made inaccessible once the front face plate is on. If the plastic relaxes and makes it feel loose, you can't tighten it unless you take everything holding the face plate off which can be somewhat of a PITA. There's also a small screw that holds the locking mechanism for the frame once it's slid into the mainframe hidden behind there. So once you realize this you think man I need to make sure they are tight so I don't have to take it all apart again some day. Yea, but if they are too tight the plastic cracks, which I've seen now on most of them. So they have a fine line on how tight to screw them in.
And, the side shields are pressed in on the older design (the newer one has a securing screw and does not get warped trying to remove it). They can be warped because people have pulled on them when stuck, pulling too hard the wrong way trying to remove them. Instead of pulling up with your hand from the back try to pop each side out with a tool under the channel going along each side. A few I've gotten have side panels warped so bad I had to go into the garage with the panels and do unspeakable things to them with a hammer and block of wood. But it all comes out OK in the end