EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Repair => Topic started by: tkamiya on March 24, 2019, 05:06:23 pm
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When I home brew something (DIY that is...), I almost always end up with extra holes on chassis and cases. Sometimes design changes, sometimes changing mind....
Are there any speckling paste like product that is close to aluminum color and self-adhesive? I don't want to buy automotive bondo as colors are odd and I only need very little at a time.
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How about JB weld? wouldn't that do the job?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVLoJe3JbFI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVLoJe3JbFI)
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=jb+weld+aluminium (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=jb+weld+aluminium)
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How about JB weld? wouldn't that do the job?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVLoJe3JbFI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aVLoJe3JbFI)
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=jb+weld+aluminium (https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=jb+weld+aluminium)
That's a slightly disturbing user name. ;D
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@Mr. Scram :D :-DD It refers to my timekeeping, not my mortal status. :-D
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Thick formable epoxy putty in tubes from the home centre. Backing it with some foil or tape and reinforce it with some compatible screening if you need to. I'll second JB Weld, great all-purpose stuff.
For larger holes, plastic or metal plugs look clean but very present visually.
For RF, MasterBond, RS Components, and others have conductive epoxies to fill or overcoat, and-or use adhesive foil.
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For smaller holes countersink hole edges, peen in an aluminum rivet, and then file/sand flush. With care the repair will be totally invisible. Top end for this type of repair is in the 5-6 mm range.
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I wonder about JB Weld sometimes.... I hear incredible stories like fixing transmissions and engines in high torque, high temperature applications. Yet, it's just another epoxy. I've used it before and I didn't think it was any different from any two tube stuff.
I guess what I will do is fordable epoxy with copper tape under it. Then touch up paint to cover it up. I never painted epoxy... does it take paint?
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When i encounter this problem i use a very simple solution and it works perfectly every time.
I cut out and add a new metal plate on top of the current one. A new plate with all the good holes and none of the unwanted ones.
Since panel mount controls/jacks are usually mounted with nuts you don't even have to secure the new panel in place. The nuts do that for you!
On the same subject of cool panel/chassis hacks..
If you accidentally put a scratch on your nice new panel, get a wire brush and scratch the panel up more to make a nice brushed look and hide the scratch :-+
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I wonder about JB Weld sometimes.... I hear incredible stories like fixing transmissions and engines in high torque, high temperature applications. Yet, it's just another epoxy. I've used it before and I didn't think it was any different from any two tube stuff.
I guess what I will do is fordable epoxy with copper tape under it. Then touch up paint to cover it up. I never painted epoxy... does it take paint?
Most epoxies take paint well. Clean the surface thoroughly and perhaps slightly roughen it with fine grit sandpaper.
Another option is to use a clear epoxy and fill heavily with powdered aluminum. Won't be a perfect visual match, but can come close.
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The deal with JB Weld is it's good for 500F, so when you glue up your cylinder head it won't degrade and fail at 2-300F.
This is normally not a concern for non-automotive issues. I use the 5 minute stuff all the time for various repairs. The longer cure time variant seems to bond better.
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I wonder about JB Weld sometimes.... I hear incredible stories like fixing transmissions and engines in high torque, high temperature applications. Yet, it's just another epoxy. I've used it before and I didn't think it was any different from any two tube stuff.
I'm a JB Weld fan. The usual 5-minute epoxy cures to something like hard rubber. You can dent it with a screwdriver. JB Weld cures so hard that if you scratch it with the point of a knife, you can see the scratch it leaves behind. A leftover piece the size and thickness of a large coin cannot be bent - by hand or even with pliers - it will just snap in half.
Here's a youtube video that compares some different epoxy brands: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XObmZIbHOzY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XObmZIbHOzY)
One time I worked on the nosecone for a small research rocket. They used a type of epoxy (I think) to attach nuts to the smooth inside surface of the nosecone. The epoxy was white with maybe a touch of green and was rock hard and as smooth as glass. I've often wondered what that stuff was. Has anyone seen something like that?
Ed
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Fixed that historic EDC calibrator (somewhere here in this forum) with painters filling (Spachtelmasse), the kind to fix small holes in the wall, followed with a bit of black edding. Looking okay on the outside, at the inside there was anyway the >10 mm ridge left by the axe.
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JB Weld is pretty good stuff. I used it to patch stripped exhaust manifold threads in the aluminum cylinder head of a turbocharged engine. It held up for around 10k miles each of the times I glued it before I finally got around to pulling the manifold off and installing a helicoil.
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copper/aluminum tape if it's not too much of a cosmetic issue
other than that, chrome plugs look OK
https://www.ebay.com/bhp/metal-hole-plugs (https://www.ebay.com/bhp/metal-hole-plugs)
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Ummmm .... colour is the problem! I counter sink each side of the hole if possible.... put a patch of PVC tape over the top of the hole and fill with 'plastic padding' from the underside. Having done that place a flat surface on the top of the PVC tape to push the surface flat and remove excess filler from the underside. When set and tape removed the finish is better than a gaping hole!
73
Ian
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I had a ham radio friend who, when he bought a new car, would drill a big hole to mount his whip antenna. I asked him how he could do that to a new car and he smiled and said that's why he buys only black cars.
When he gets ready to sell the car he removes the antenna and uses black plastic electrical tape to cover the hole. He said that so far, no one has noticed it.
I have some adhesive backing aluminum tape made by 3M. It might work for your purpose.
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Metalset is pretty expensive and I haven't used it in quite a while but it (used to) approach the same colour as aluminium.
https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/metalset-a4/ (https://www.reynoldsam.com/product/metalset-a4/)
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I just purchased a metalset. Thank you for your recommendation! This will eliminate matching color.
Interestingly, it was cheaper from Amazon when shipping was factored in.
Thanks everyone else. I will report back the result. It's a bit expensive but I don't need to paint it, and worry about spill overs and smears. (I hope)
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What? You don't have a hole mover? Just use it to move the hole off the panel... >:D
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Are you going to tell me you have a top secret LH command to do this?
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What? You don't have a hole mover? Just use it to move the hole off the panel... >:D
Failing that, you can always try a Ctrl+Z... : ;D
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8 bit guy repairing an old Bell & Howell computer case to match texture and color of the case>
silicon mold over part of case that has texture. then upside down to add epoxy and exactly matches texture (i am sure almost)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlgOsqlInpc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlgOsqlInpc)
I love J&B weld..I can really make repairs that I can retap screws and bolts that hold, but too heavy duty for non-metal cases
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For metal case..silicone mold, then plastic to mold..then plastic against metal surface and force J&B weld or similar into the hold.
Don't know how much matching surface texture is important to you..
May be a shorter way with fewer steps.
don't know of anything better.
Hope this may help
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I've settled on Metalset. :-DD Product itself is great. My own workmanship is not so. But not too, too, bad for the first time. I'm painting over it now and as folks say, faults looks worse under fresh paint. It takes regular spray paint well. I guess it takes more experience.
I was actually able to remove the tape from under it once dry.
Thanks for the recommendation. Very much appreciated.
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One time I worked on the nosecone for a small research rocket. They used a type of epoxy (I think) to attach nuts to the smooth inside surface of the nosecone. The epoxy was white with maybe a touch of green and was rock hard and as smooth as glass. I've often wondered what that stuff was. Has anyone seen something like that?
Ed
Sounds like TorrSeal, but it is actually made by Huntington Engineering Labs. It is usually used for high vacuum work, and is designed to not outgas. It is pretty brittle, however, so not good for anything that will flex.
Jon