Author Topic: Replacing 1501-33  (Read 853 times)

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Offline Kg7noh

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Replacing 1501-33
« on: February 08, 2018, 06:25:51 pm »
Does anyone know how to get this power regulator off the PCB? After I get the solder hot I should point out. I'm assuming it's stuck on with a thermal adhesive of some kind, but know nothing about that stuff.
    It's from a Linksyd WRT54G ver. 2.  S/N  CDF5
   I'm hoping to get it working so I can add it to my ham mesh networks.

Thanks!
KG7NOH

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Offline Armadillo

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Re: Replacing 1501-33
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2018, 06:43:25 pm »
Snip the legs off and use a soldering iron to unsolder the pin 1 by 1.

OR

Use a hot air station.

Snip the legs would be the easiest option or the hot air if it has a backplane soldered.                 ;D
« Last Edit: February 08, 2018, 06:45:39 pm by Armadillo »
 

Offline Kg7noh

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Re: Replacing 1501-33
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2018, 06:46:51 pm »
Snip the legs off and use a soldering iron to unsolder the pin 1 by 1.

OR

Use a hot air station.

Snip the legs would be the easiest option or the hot air if it has a backplane soldered.                 ;D
Thanks, but the pins are not what I'm wondering about..

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Offline Twoflower

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Re: Replacing 1501-33
« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2018, 07:39:17 pm »
Probably the package of the device is soldered to the PCB too. This has two reasons. One is to run higher currents through the device and the second to transfer heat to the PCB to cool the device. Because the second point you need a good solder iron to melt the solder beneath the device.

As the package is already broken maybe remove the plastic to allow you to heat the metal part of the package directly. Use solder to increase the heat transfer from the solder iron to the metal.
 

Offline Samogon

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Re: Replacing 1501-33
« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2018, 07:42:57 pm »
Anyway to solder new component he will need hot air to properly solder case to the pcb.
 

Offline Twoflower

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Re: Replacing 1501-33
« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2018, 07:53:07 pm »
Not necessarily. It's a bit tricky but doable:

1. Add very little(!) Solder to the pad on the PCB and heat the pad; holding the solder iron nearly parallel to the PCB.
2. Hold the new device above the pad on the solder iron to heat the device.
3. Remove the solder iron and push down the device. This should be done quickly to make sure the solder is still above the melting point. This is tricky as you can't adjust the position any more as the solder cools down very fast.
4. Solder the normal leads.
5. Done

I've done that with SMD FETs. Sure they're smaller but it worked 100%.
 

Offline Samogon

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Re: Replacing 1501-33
« Reply #6 on: February 08, 2018, 08:12:22 pm »
yeah alignment is most difficult stage, once you screwed all process of desoldering and soldering repeated and chances to damage PCB increased. 
 

Offline Twoflower

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Re: Replacing 1501-33
« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2018, 08:27:56 pm »
I agree  :-+  Especially if you're not experienced with soldering it might increases the risk to create a bigger problem. On the plus side: The pins are huge so a misalignment of a mm or even two can be fixed by carefully bending the pins.

Kg7noh could try a few drycold runs with a cold solder iron to see were the device ends up while removing the solder iron and press down the device.
 

Offline keymaster

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Re: Replacing 1501-33
« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2018, 08:32:47 pm »
remove a little bit of the solder mask ,and keep the solder iron there to keep the solder melted  . problem solved
 

Offline Kg7noh

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Re: Replacing 1501-33
« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2018, 04:13:25 am »
Thanks guys. I fixed it. I ended up buying a cheap hotel air station, just like the one Dave has, but a different brand for $35 US. I have done a lot of soldering, but it was over 15 years ago when I got my degree in electronics, so I'm pretty rusty. Thanks again guys!

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