Electronics > Repair
safe way to remove large smd caps
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Audiorepair:
I used to repair a lot of DAT's back in the day.  Never liked doing the portable ones mind, good luck with that.

One problem with them is the tape wrap is more than the 90 degrees you get in the larger format ones.
It's a design bodge really, I used to refuse to repair them.


Now I have no idea where you might get pinch rollers or mode switches for even the larger format DAT's. 
Is that a thing any more?
cncjerry:
Pinch rollers are no trouble, actually most parts you can order from Teac.  For instance, I had been searching for the tascam drive belt that is cogged/ribbed/indexed depending on what you call them.  Finally sent a note to teac parts and they had them.  So most of the parts are available.  People have ordered pinch rollers from them after I they sent me the belts.

I wanted a TCD-D3 or a PCM-M1 to take on a long trip to Egypt & the Nile, so instead of ordering one that "worked" as they never do, I ordered two D3s and repaired them thinking I would get one but both worked after I oiled and unjammed the mecha. The first PCM-M1 I ordered works perfectly too.  that's a cool device.  I have two Tascam DA-P1 that work perfectly I had bought for the belts before I got them from teac.  I don't think I paid more than $45 for either plus shipping but they are larger, pro boxes.

Whenever I buy the TCD-D7s or D8s, they all fail.  I owned one since it was released, say '90? and that broke a gear when the mecha jammed.  I bought an iron gear I had to modify and won an auction (cheap) for another that has the exact same problem.  I replaced the electrolytic caps but no joy, I need 6 more, none of the ones I need test fine in circuit.  But they are strange caps.  They have a rectangular case around an aluminum electrolytic with radial leads.  10uf @6v and 6.8uf at 6.3V and 10@4V.  Can't even find the electrolytics in the needed values these days.  Looked on Mouser and Digikey and they only have SMD.  There isn't much room to put a higher voltage.  I'm going to try eBay or just use tantalums for now as I have every value known to man.

Even "excellent" TCD-D7 and D8's usually fail when you try to FF or RW to the next track (AMS).  Same problem when you try to queue FF or RW.  I check the RPMs of the drum, stare at the tape, everything looks perfect yet they sound like a tracking failure.  I put them under a microscope and I can't see any variation in speed or tracking but it doesn't take much for the pinch roller to slip yet they have new rollers.  The failure they have now is it seems like they are playing in LP mode, or maybe a head amp is failing.

I love the confluence of hobbies (mechanics, electronics and audio).  I've been a tapehead for a long time. I use an LTO library on my cloud even.  I repair them for puzzles to keep me sharp.

Jerry

I've repaired over 25 ADAT, DTRS and DAT decks as well as a PCM-F1 with two companion betamaxes in the past year alone.  Of all those, the only I can't get working is this D7 but I have the schematics and waveforms, so I'll get it.
Audiorepair:
You really need the alignment tape to repair DATs. 
Sometimes they were massively out of alignment, one can only suppose the owner had had a go themseleves.
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