OTOH Chromium's Google translate works well here, for me, it detected a page in French and auto translated it, so lets see what we can do to help. For those who have problems auto-translating forum content here:
Hello,
in the attached photo I have an electronic card of my washing machine. There is a broken weld I circled it in black. I hesitate to resume welding because the space is not big I'm afraid to overflow on the other contacts. I bought a new spare part card from https :// pcdt . fr / lave-linge /
they are ok to take it back from me if I haven't unpacked it so it's super cool. The challenge is to send it back and therefore to succeed in my welding.
my question is that if I smudge my solder a bit on the neighboring contact, will that be a problem? It's the on/off button for the washing machine, but I don't want it messing up.
thank you for your feedback
If you have suitable tools available, and the correct type of flux and solder,
and there is no other fault, (see Grumpydoc's comments below) you can certainly fix it. Tell us what soldering tools you have or can borrow. It would help if you can find some scrap PCBs to practice on, removing and replacing parts then confirming that the re-made connections are good using a DMM (digital multimeter) in continuity test mode.
You will almost certainly need
desolder braid (also known as 'solder wick') to remove the solder from the failed joint so you can inspect it for a broken track or lifted pad on the PCB. It can also be used to clean up any solder blobs that get where they shouldn't. Chemtronics is a good reliable brand - there are others that are good but most of the Chinese brands on Ebay or Amazon are far less effective or even useless!
If the pad is still firmly attached to the PCB and not broken from its track, you only have to resolder it. Otherwise you may need a patch wire between the switch pin and the nearest part of its track that is still intact and firmly attached to the PCB to reconnect it. If the distance is short and it doesn't need to cross any other tracks or pads, you can use bare tinned copper wire (solid, not stranded), preferably with diameter a bit less than the pin thickness. If the distance is greater or it has to cross other tracks or pads, you must use an insulated patch wire, or put insulation under it. Kynar insulated wirewrap wire (30 AWG silver plated copper solid core) is the easiest to work with, but you could use any small diameter insulated solid core hook-up wire or even for fairly short distances, bare tinned copper wire with Kapton tape insulation under it so it doesn't short-circuit any other pad or track it crosses. If it is going to a track rather than an existing solder pad, you'll need to scrape off the green solder resist to expose bare copper, clean it with an abrasive glass fibre pencil brush, and pre-tin it with solder before you attempt to solder the patch wire to it.
If the pad has lifted, after soldering the patch wire to the pin and pad, and cleaning the flux off the board with a toothbrush and flux remover or denatured alcohol (Alcool À Brûler Auchan is suitable), taking care to use enough to wash all the dissolved flux off the edge of the board, and letting the board dry completely, you can glue it back down by applying a drop of thin cyanoacrylate superglue at the edge of the pad, then pressing it down (and holding it) to the board with a small jeweller's screwdriver or similar tool till the glue sets. Do not glue the pad before soldering as the fumes from hot cyanoacrylate are noxious and toxic. If the pad is completely detached, it may be preferable not to replace it, but just solder a stiff patch wire to the pin and nearby track it broke off from, then glue under the switch body to reinforce it following the full procedure as described for gluing a lifted pad.
N.B. look closely at how the PCB fits to the front panel - there may be plastic supports that must touch the board near the switch that will affect how you route patch wires.However, if the board is very high value and there is still a shop that does any sort of electronic repairs in a town near you, you may prefer to pay a professional technician to make the repair for you. Any shop that still repairs TVs and other home entertainment electronics should be able to do the repair well, and some larger independent mobile phone repair shops who do PCB repairs could also do it, but show them the fault on the board and ask their price before agreeing to the work.
They will probably say "We can re-solder the connection but there is no guarantee." as they cannot test the whole board.
Edit: See Grumpydoc's comments below
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