While the toaster works normally at work, why does it only increase the kitchen

[hummerjanne]

While the toaster works normally at work,  Why does she only blow the fuse for the kitchen at home?

[BrokenYugo]

How long is a piece of string?

Could be many things, but none can be explored without more detail. What sort of toaster are we talking here? Nameplate power rating? Size of mains circuit fuse/breaker at both sites? Is it really a fuse at home or some sort of breaker? Other loads on kitchen circuit? Could be anything with minimal detail given.

[Haenk]

Internal or external fuse?
I assume an external fuse - and that might be the thing to check. Commercial wiring has usually a bit higher rating than home wiring, so they probably also have a higher rated fuse installed.
So maybe you have 10A at home, but 16A at work. Your toaster requires 15A, so your wiring at home is not good enough to support the current requirement. (That's rather the electrician installed a lower rated fuse, mathing the installation.)

[themadhippy]

Not just the current rating of the protective device,but also the type,work could be a HRC fuse  whilst its a  B type mcb at home

[CatalinaWOW]

The lines voltage is a nominal value.  May run on the low side at work, on the high side at home, with current the following Mr. Ohm's rules.

[Bud]

@OP do you carry your toaster with you to your workplace and back home?

[fzabkar]

Measure the resistance between active and neutral when the lever is depressed. My 700W, 240V toaster measures 77 ohms.

[wasedadoc]

Measure the resistance between active and neutral when the lever is depressed. My 700W, 240V toaster measures 77 ohms.

Guatemala uses 120 Volts AC.  For the same power as an Australian toster the Guatemala one would be much less resistance.

[hummerjanne]

Capacity: 8 slices
Plate Type: Casting
Power: 1800W
Vertical Storage:
Heat Level: 3
Weight: 7 kg
Width: 32cm
Height: 32 cm
Depth: 17 cm

[hummerjanne]

I find this a bit interesting because it explodes when I plug it in. I experience this every time I plug it in. There is no leakage current relay or protection in the shop, but it works. I have a Siemens fuse at home.

[wasedadoc]

To get 1800 Watts from a 120 Volt supply takes 15 Amps.  But the power on surge when the elements are cold may be significantly higher.  Looks like your home kitchen supply does not have a high enough rating for this toaster.  I guess the toaster is not intended for home use but is an industrial model for cafes etc.

[TimFox]

In the US, my kitchen counters have two wall-outlet circuits (both protected by GFIs, per code) for toasters and other small appliances.
Each is protected by a 20 A breaker (as seen by the NEMA 5-20 outlets).
The poster's toaster would not be happy on a 15 A circuit.

[themadhippy]

because it explodes when I plug it in. I

coool,is it possible the toasters faulty to earth and the work supply dont have a good earth

[fmashockie]

1800W is a bit high for residental.  Here in the US most homes have 15A breakers for lighting and receptacles.  Even if you have a 20A circuit that you are plugging it into, you still probably have other appliances/electronics shared on that circuit.  Also, what do you mean by explodes?

[hummerjanne]

this toaster thermostat

[wasedadoc]

If that Siemens breaker, 40 A overload and 300mA leakage, is cutting off then the toaster has a serious dangerous fault and should not be used - even in the shop.  Get it is professionally repaired or incapacitate and discard it.

[themadhippy]

f

then the toaster has a serious dangerous fault

faulty yes, but an  rcd can trip on a  neutral  earth fault which in most places isnt that dangerous

[mzzj]

f

then the toaster has a serious dangerous fault

faulty yes, but an  rcd can trip on a  neutral  earth fault which in most places isnt that dangerous

Most places = UK?
Most of the word(not UK) uses "non-polarized" plugs in households so that live and neutral can be at random order. In that case neutral-earth fault in appliance is no different from live-earth fault.

[AndyBeez]

Have you had the power socket, cabling and other sockets on the same circuit checked for safety? Are you operating any other appliances on the same circuit? How old is the MCB? 1800W is the output or input power?

Switched on, a typical inrush or surge current might be anywhere from 25% above this rating. The MCB could be hit with a 19+ amp pulse

[TimFox]

f

then the toaster has a serious dangerous fault

faulty yes, but an  rcd can trip on a  neutral  earth fault which in most places isnt that dangerous

Most places = UK?
Most of the word(not UK) uses "non-polarized" plugs in households so that live and neutral can be at random order. In that case neutral-earth fault in appliance is no different from live-earth fault.

In my part of the known world (US), the sockets are required to be polarized (although violations do occur).

[hummerjanne]

As soon as I plug it into the socket, the switch that says "on" goes off and explodes while plugging it in, but what I don't understand is that there is no fuse protection at work and it works normally, why doesn't it work at home? If it doesn't work at home, why was it working before?

[hummerjanne]

Could this problem be caused by the socket? The socket cables at work are very thick.I will only use it at work, it is best to buy it new.

[wasedadoc]

If it injures or kills anyone where you work you will be in huge trouble. You are aware there is a problem and will not be able to plead otherwise.

[fzabkar]

As soon as I plug it into the socket, the switch that says "on" goes off and explodes while plugging it in, but what I don't understand is that there is no fuse protection at work and it works normally, why doesn't it work at home? If it doesn't work at home, why was it working before?

I seriously doubt that there is no fuse protection at work. If anything, there may be no earth leakage protection which is not the same thing.

Measure the resistance between earth and each of the active and neutral pins in the plug. Also measure the resistance between the earth pin and the metal body of the toaster.

BTW, the toaster's element(s) are not connected to the mains supply until you depress the lever, so the fault is unlikely to be due to overcurrent. (I'm assuming that the toaster doesn't start heating until the lever is depressed, otherwise that would be a different fault.)