Greetings EEVBees:
TEARDOWN & REPAIR (we hope) of an OCZ MODXSTREAM-PRO 600W ATX PS - Mainboard marked 2009/16/16. This PS was bought used for $25. After a few weeks the computer shut down suddenly, and I noticed that the case was hot. I immediately shut down the power at the back of the case. After opening it up, inspecting, and allowing it to cool off, I turned it on, and it sparks came out of the fan, and I shut it down again. Removing the PS and taking the cover and fan off I noticed that there was a big blob of white adhesive holding several components together. This white stuff had attracted a rather large dust bunny, all of which was scorched black. So I unsoldered the board, and removed all three heatsinks with MOSFETs, diodes and what all still attached. I then (see pictures below) unsoldered a transformer, and was able to see a burnt resistor and a Tiny-Switch Off-Line Switcher Chip with a burnt off leg. I took over 50 pictures to make sure I could get this one back together. I have included a few below. I also downloaded the data sheets for nearly all of the chips. Build quality was generally good except for the cheap caps and the dust loving white adhesive.
--Having discovered I could get a replacement chip from Mouser, I proceeded to check the large Teapo 390F, 400V Cap. Lo and behold it had lost a third of its rated capacitance and now read 258uF. All of the other e caps are good, though a few are on their last. I checked the silicon with a DMM, and made sure that the IC chips had no shorts. One of the chips (see below) was plainly marked but I could not find it anywhere on the Net, but it had no shorts so we will hope it never goes. So I am ordering all of the Blown Parts from Mouser and all electrolytic caps, as I just do not trust the Teapo caps.
--I could not have done this job without my Hakko 470 desoldering system. I would so love to see a video of someone trying to do this with a bang stick and solder wick. Good luck! When replacing caps, I leave them soldered in place, unless I have to remove them to read values, and then replace them one at a time to prevent mistakes. I also mark each C101 or whatever when I remove them as well as making an exact list (see below). Also I take a lot of macro photos. This procedure saved the day when I had to replace 100 odd caps on a Vizio 37" CCFL TV. I will post that job later.
--I am afraid I cannot recommend this OCZ PS. Some of the caps are dated 9/11 which agrees with the mainboard date of 2009/16/16 and indicates this supply lasted at most 4 1/2 years, and maybe much less. But I do not think the large filter cap should have failed. I fault OCZ for allowing WHL (Wun Hung Lo) to assemble this unit using low grade caps. I notice that there are 3300uF Caps the same size and color but with voltages of 16 and 10 volts, and one slightly shorter of 6.3 volts. No chance of a mistake there. I will replace them all with 16 volts, as the smaller foot print 25Vs from Mouser are very expensive. At the bottom you will see the contemporaneous notes I made while deciding whether to repair or toss. I have decided to order the $30 worth from Mouser. Mouser is more expensive than DigiKey, generally, but they usually have better availability for obsolete chips and hard to find capacitors. If this repair fails I will save all the parts and the new capacitors, as I have several of the modular OCZ PSs. If the repair succeeds it should last al least another 10 years. I could by a new one but I am afraid it will blow after the 1 year warranty is up. I will post here the results of the repair attempt, but it may be a while as I have three other teardowns, that I now have the parts for, that have to be assembled first.
--If anyone has a blown Antec high wattage PS they would like to sell me cheap, I would like to do a teardown and possible repair. PM me.
DEVICE COMMENTS
R505 2.18 Ohms Red, Red, Gold, Gold 2.2 Ohms 1 or 2 Watts 10% Burnt. Replace with 3 watt wire wound.
IC501 TNY278PN, TNY274-280 Tiny-Switch III Family. Has leg blown off. Replace!
T501 Primary 0.00 Ohms, 2nd 1.25 Ohms and 3rd 0.36 Ohms, Probably Good.
U501 L0944 817B X Lite-On Optoisolator is Good.
D101 Good.
D501 FRI07 A08, Cannot identify. Switches on at 0.511 V. FR = 286.3 K Ohms, RR = 0.L, Probably Good.
ZD501 LT9250 P6KE200 = Little Fuse Transient Voltage Suppression Diode 600 W, 171-190V Breakdown. Tests Good.
HS1 GBU1005 = Taiwan Semiconductor Single Phase 10A Glass Passivated Bridge Rectifier. Tests Good
Q601 21N50C3 Good.
Q701 20N60C3 Good. All MOSFETs, Transistors and Diodes seem to be OK.
U201 PK377BN FAN4800IN Fairchild PFC CCM/DCM 64KHz 16DIP. No shorts. Modern replacements are available.
U901 J09A29A1F PS224 16DIP Cannot identify. No shorts. Hope for the best.
ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS
Name Brand Temp Value Volts ESRin ESRout Cond. ESR of New Comment
C103 Teapo 105 390 400 Bad 258 uF
C300 Teapo 105 3300 10 0.01
C305 Teapo 105 3300 16 0.08
C306 Teapo 105 3300 16 0.01 0.01
C307 Teapo 105 3300 6.3 0.09 0.02
C311 Teapo 105 3300 6.3 0.01
C313 Teapo 105 2.2 50 2.3
C315 Teapo 105 10 50 0.14
C316 Teapo 105 10 50 1.20
C317 Teapo 105 470 25 0.03
C318 Teapo 105 220 16 0.08 0.08
C319 Teapo 105 10 50 0.90 0.87
C320 Teapo 105 10 50 1.0
C? Teapo 105 3300 10 0.05 0.03 Next to C307 w/Red Dot
C503 Teapo 105 10 50 0.60
C507 Teapo 105 1000 10 0.03
C508 Teapo 105 1000 10 0.05
C515 Teapo 105 22 50 0.35
C703 Teapo 105 47 50 0.29
"Once in his life, every man is entitled to fall madly in love with a gorgeous redhead."
Lucille Désirée Ball
1911 - 1989
Best Regards
Clear Ether