Ok, so I have this 5054B. I am wondering a few things. First is there a reset jumper somewhere on the PPC Board? These have no drive with them so I am having to reinstall everything. I attached a hdd preloaded with the Win2000 and the necessary software but it won't get past this little ribbon screen. It boots and shows the Tek splash screen, then goes to the black screen with the little blue ribbon looking icon in the top left. I was hoping that this was just a reset issue on the PPC board side. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Pics below.
Also does anyone know what this chip does? It's on the ATX board so I'm assuming that it is related to matching the hdd drive to the motherboard. Thanks in advance!
That chip in socket is the BIOS EEPROM. It's not related to harddrive.
Take a photo of area around CPU, let's see health of the VRM there.
What looks like that you have problem with your x86 PC side in the scope, as that human icon is Award BIOS logo, which is part of BIOS welcome screen.
So your PC does not boot far enough to draw all the stuff like CPU info, memory size, etc.
High chances there are power issues in the scope (PSU, VRMs on the x86 motherboard).
That chip in socket is the BIOS EEPROM. It's not related to harddrive.
Take a photo of area around CPU, let's see health of the VRM there.
What looks like that you have problem with your x86 PC side in the scope, as that human icon is Award BIOS logo, which is part of BIOS welcome screen.
So your PC does not boot far enough to draw all the stuff like CPU info, memory size, etc.
High chances there are power issues in the scope (PSU, VRMs on the x86 motherboard).
Hey TiN. Good to know. Also, both of the scopes have the exact same icon when I try to boot them so it would be great if they both have the same issue (if its a simple fix). I'm off to take the pics.
That's the VRM to the left with the heat sink I'm assuming? The caps seemed leaky at first, but it turns out that it was dust that collected over time from the CPU heat sink. I have an in-circuit ESR meter so I'm going to check the values for these.
Let me know if you need better pictures. I can upload them to my server.
All those capacitors around CPU must go. Write down their capacitance, voltage and got replacements from Digikey/etc (search for Low ESR +105c caps, with same size).
Replace the caps. Chances are ~70% that it will be all fixed after this
That ribbon looks like the Award BIOS logo.... So either someone borked a firmware update, and/or yes, the capacitors should be replaced.
All those capacitors around CPU must go. Write down their capacitance, voltage and got replacements from Digikey/etc (search for Low ESR +105c caps, with same size).
Replace the caps. Chances are ~70% that it will be all fixed after this
Awesome
! I have a local shop 5 miles from me that has all the goodies, so I might be able to pick them up tomorrow. They are Chemicon TMV series, but I couldn't find any data for them online.
Quick question for you. I know you have worked on these (I snoop around your site all the time
) before and these have the serial B06XXXX on both. What do you think about their performance when it comes to speed? I might (I'm a TE hoarder also
) keep one and get rid of my my hacked Rigol DS1054Z (it's only 3 months old LOL). Then I'll have 2 boat anchors! Well these aren't as bad as my 784D.
I also have an intel Core 2 Duo e6400 CPU that I'll probably use instead of the stock Celeron D. The E6400 smokes the Celeron performance wise.
That ribbon looks like the Award BIOS logo.... So either someone borked a firmware update, and/or yes, the capacitors should be replaced.
A possible BIOS goof was the first thing that came to mine when TiN told me what the logo was. I just hope they didn't do it on both, and that it's just bad caps.
I also have an intel Core 2 Duo e6400 CPU that I'll probably use instead of the stock Celeron D. The E6400 smokes the Celeron performance wise.
You will need to make sure the BIOS supports Core 2 CPUs. Many early 775 boards only work with P4 based chips. You can still still do a lot better than the original Celeron, and also max out the RAM. You could also replace the whole motherboard if you can find one with the same jack panel layout.
All those capacitors around CPU must go. Write down their capacitance, voltage and got replacements from Digikey/etc (search for Low ESR +105c caps, with same size).
Replace the caps. Chances are ~70% that it will be all fixed after this
Nailed it! I received the Nichicon replacements today from Mouser. These little caps are toast but when I checked them the ESR seemed ok, even though I couldn't find any datasheets for them. I know they are UCCs but nothing was available when I looked in terms of data online. Some had bad ESR (.17-.19ish) but most were reading .008-.04 range. Once I took a good look at them up close, I could see that the bottom had been pushed out. This was a great "rookie" experience for me understanding capacitor failure. If you had not told me to look there I would have never thought those guys were bad but being the anal retentive person I am I would have changed them out anyway, and I will most likely change out all the caps on this board after I get it to show more than the splash screen and that damned little ribbon!
Another thing I want to ask is does anyone have a suggestion on dealing with the desoldering process on these caps? They are a PITA to remove so on the second motherboard some of the legs are still there. The first one I was patient with and after about an hour I was able to get all the caps off cleanly. But the 2nd one...
I'm going to preheat the boards this time around and see if it helps make the clean up faster before I install the new caps. Pics belove of the old and the new. The new ones seem a bit pricey! $0.657 a piece. They did have Panasonics that were around .30ish but I'm not sure about reliability.
Good rule to follow on most of electronics repairs : if board is older than 10 years, caps must go. If area near caps stressed by high temperatures (typical when hot LDO or CPU nearby) : replace all caps that are older than 5 years. Life of the cap shortened twice with each +10c rise.
Often (but not always) this is the only problem with power delivery circuitry in device. SMPS especially sensitive to input and output capacitance quality.
Good rule to follow on most of electronics repairs : if board is older than 10 years, caps must go. If area near caps stressed by high temperatures (typical when hot LDO or CPU nearby) : replace all caps that are older than 5 years. Life of the cap shortened twice with each +10c rise.
Often (but not always) this is the only problem with power delivery circuitry in device. SMPS especially sensitive to input and output capacitance quality.
Good to know. I'm off to put it back together and see what happens
So I finally had the time to get back to this project (school is kicking my @$$ but I'm enjoying it). Thanks again to everyone for helping...
So after fighting to get the original capacitors out and clean the board good, I was able to install the new caps. I have two of these scopes so I replaced the caps on both boards. The first ATX motherboard I tried showed the same initial problems so I moved to the next one and it booted. I installed all the software and it's passes all tests, but I have one very critical problem. No waveform shows up! I remember something similiar happening with the TDS 7154B I repaired, but I haven't a clue as to how I got the trace/waveform to show up (note to self to improve my logging/ note taking skills).
@TiN , I saw on the site where you repaired/upgraded the TDS 5034B and I noticed that I didn't see any traces on the screen in your pictures. Maybe you can help me solve this as well?
Everything else looks good. I've upgraded the RAM from 512mb to 2GB in order to help with boot times and app installation speed. Huge difference! I can't want to get past this trace/waveform issue so I can install a Core 2 Duo on this puppy. The Celeron is ok, but I want to max these scopes out with what I have available and I have a few C2Ds (from Apple motherboard repairs) hanging around and some old RAM that I thought I would never end up using. I'm so glad I didn't throw it away as I intended to intially.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Make sure you have the Tektronix supplied video driver installed, not the one that comes with Windows.
Make sure you have the Tektronix supplied video driver installed, not the one that comes with Windows.
Thank you for the help guys. That driver install did the trick. We have a working scope
Now I'm going to work on the other scope after I run tests on this one again. I've ran the full diagnostic over 200 times with no failures except when I had the probe plugged in
I also need to get into the BIOS because the fan on the CPU heat sink is on high all the time. I also had to replace the BIOS battery which is to be expected. Once I know that the other scope is good, I'll replace all the caps on the ATX motherboards and I'll also take a look at the power supply caps. I'll probably end up changing them anyway UNLESS it will upset something. Older Tek scopes seem to be tanks. Waveform pic below.
Did you run the SPC (signal path compensation)?
Did you run the SPC (signal path compensation)?
Yes, and it passes all those as well. Do you know of any extended tests other than those 2?
No. I recently got a TDS7104 for free. It most of the time fails SPC. Last time fifth time was a PASS. We have some probe calibration and deskew fixture at work. I don't know if the same is available for your model.
No. I recently got a TDS7104 for free. It most of the time fails SPC. Last time fifth time was a PASS. We have some probe calibration and deskew fixture at work. I don't know if the same is available for your model.
I have to look into that. Thanks for the info. Along with help from everyone here I was able to bring a TDS7154B back to life but channel 4 had issues. I got rid of it because at the time, I didn't have the proper tools to expect the front end and I was advised to not go down that rabbit hole. Would it be possible to get access to the maintenance records for that machine? That would be very useful for troubleshooting
Anyone know how to get into the BIOS? I've tried the normal F9, F10, F2, and ESC, but nothing seems to work
I'm trying to fix the fan speed as it is running at high all the time. Thanks in advance.
A lot of machines from the era used DEL to get into the BIOS.