EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
Electronics => Repair => Topic started by: gg64 on April 02, 2021, 08:55:47 am
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Hey,
So I have washing machine I had to tight up the terminal connector like those:
https://media.digikey.com/Photos/TE%20Connectivity/5-160447-5.JPG
And I already done it twice and this is clearly getting less time to get looser.
The terminal connector are those mounted on this pump: 5859en1001b
https://static1.sos-accessoire.com/8257-large_default/pompe-de-vidange-avec-moteur.jpg
They also have a solid plastic sleeves on it.
(I had to tight them up otherwise the washing machine would NOT allow it to empty the drum's water)
My question is there a way other than soldering the wire onto the pump terminal:
-like a (beta?) clip to force them to make good connection
-or change the terminal connector for special kind that can withstand the vibration ?
(I have terminal crimping plier btw if needed, soldering iron,...)
Thanks for the help.
Edit: I forgot a NOT
EDIT2:
Do you guys think one of those can help, and act like a kind of spring:
https://fr.farnell.com/te-connectivity/880645-6/female-disconnect-6-35mm-uninsulated/dp/2806278?MER=sy-me-pd-mi-alte
https://fr.farnell.com/te-connectivity/880645-6/pl-rec-1-0-2-5mm2-0-40-x-52-32/dp/2968735?MER=sy-me-pd-mi-alte
?
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they don't function on how tight they are
if you use them with the approved grease , they feel all quite loose. The tightness is a mechanical phenomena, the electrical conductivity is not always related. If you want a tight terminal, use a screw with retaining compound.
THat being said, is the crimp thickness of the spade and socket correct? 0.032 and 0.02 are commonly available, I don't think they like mixing and matching well.
I believe the 'tightness' people expect with disconnecting ancient ones in old equipment would be considered 'seized' by the manufacturer, likely to do damage to the solder joint, insulation or crimp junction during removal, so they are not designed for this. Also, brass will have a lower insertion force then other coatings/types.
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You never replaced bad connector but already looking for some special type. Just buy some decent connector and replace the bad one. Not to say, it probably has a bad crimp, and what makes it temporarily operational probably is you disturbing the wire, not tightening the connector.
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From my experience using pliers to press down the curved ends a little bit to get a more tight fit works pretty well. Or might be a bad crimp as wraper has already suggested.
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is that electrically good?
They market the high end terminals with having a lower insertion force, and have a low insertion force line of fast on. I don't know if you wanna be deforming them, the companies usually say there is a trade off between mechanical strength and electrical properties, and usually agree that they should be lubricated. From experience bending / deforming plated metal usually has bad consequences.
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For a washing machine you want connectors which don't come loose easily by vibration. And adding some petroleum jelly as lubricant also hinders corrosion. For a good electrical contact the area of contact matters, i.e. where the current flows. A flat surface isn't flat, it has tiny humps and bumps. To improve things you can go for super-flat surface, some soft alloy or force (pressing contacts together). I think what manufactures mean by "trade off between mechanical strength and electrical properties" is the contact material. For example, copper is a good conductor but easily deformable, Steel has much more mechanical strength but its conductivity isn't as good as copper.
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by adjusting crimp tension/tool force you adjust the point at which the crimp sits on the electromechanical tradeoff graph as it is made. i am not talking about the materials but during the crimping process you have adjustable crimpers, they adjust them for you (calibrate) to be in the manufacturers recommendation. If you meddle with this you can possibly mess with impedance and also mechanical strength, something specific the faster engineer might make a decision here. And this is for the crimp wire junction, you are messing with the socket-plug junction, which is not even defined!
I would say this is a bad crimp for a washing machine, you need to use screw lugs
also when you adjust it with pliers, you are possibly bending it enough to cause cracks to form in the plating that they usually have, it should be safer with brass crimps. these microcracks cause corrosion. it can also cause a clearance that is too small, that causes scraping to such a degree that the surface is damaged. It might turn the mechanism from a 'tight press' to a 'field plow' (the one you do corn with).
The only ones I would mess with are electricians screw terminals, you need to make these tight. BUt once you are messing with a precise crimped connection.. thats probably a bad thing
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I didn't mean the crimping flaps, but the part of the spade connector which makes the contact.
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see the earthplow analogy, it can scrape, bow, crack etc
that whole action that occurs during mating is made to occur at some kind of clearances, when you change these it can effect all sorts of things.
Be most wary of nickel plating.. it does weird things.
If its a solid brass connector without a covering you might eliminate some causes of concern, but still.. not recommended
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Ok, turns out, I figured that the pump would run good for a while after I touched the connector for the last time.
I figured it was because I disturbed the pump and it make it run good for a while.
I changed the pump (the whole assembly), now it no longer seems to wait after few washes.
No issue so far. :)