UPDATE:I am happy to announce the panel has been started up successfully and has been put to some good use! Check this video out to see my creation:
So I recently acquired a holy huge VFD matrix display. This thing weighs quite a few kilos and is much larger than my hand.

Naturally given how I love those kinds of displays, I wanted to get it running. It came with a digital board, so I thought, can't be hard, huh? It has a TEST switch, and a 8251 UART, so it'd be a matter of dumping the ROM and finding out the protocol, then stuffing an arduino on the other end and showing weather or something.

So I get my IC puller, take the ROM out, drop it into my MSX, start the dumper tool... and I can only read 00s. Well, if I erased it somehow, it would be FFs, so something is wrong in another way, right? The ROM also gets warm, so it's not like it's not connected.
Well, fat chance — I measure 27 Ohms on the power connector of the logic board, and it just causes my PSU to go into protection. It's also lacquer coated to add insult to injury — can't even pull the mask ROMs to dump the fonts, not to mention repairing it, though not like there is much point in that given the ROM is gone.
Thus, I turn my attention to the VFD module itself. It comes with this kind of a sweep/framebuffer/whatevery board:

The L1-2-3-4 plug is a standard Molex trapezoid you'd find on an HDD, and the 5V/Ground positions matched that (checking against the ICs Vcc/Vss pins). So I assumed the other side would be 12V and plugged in a standard PC power supply.
It seems to have started up fine on the 5V side, but the consumption on the 12V side was suspiciously low, at around 5mA.
Probing around with a scope shows that at least something in here is alive — the 74LS257 multiplexing the input bus gets switched with a few kHz every now and then, the 2114 SRAM is getting some motion on the data lines (which looks weird, but whatever for now) and the #WE pin. However, the display itself is dead silent. The diodes in the top right corner which, I assume, should drive the cathodes on the display, always have 5V on their negative side (and 0V on the positive side).
I tried shorting the 2114 data outputs to ground or Vcc, nothing. Then I tried shorting the negative side of those diodes to ground, still nothing.
Out of ideas, I tried slowly brushing the ground wire on the pins of the VFD itself, to see if it lights up directly, but still nothing.
Worthy of note I cannot see any heater glow in the display — but I can't also see any heater pins to check against. There is a pair of pins on both bottom and top side of it, though, that goes directly to power via a 1MOhm and 2MOhm resistor for each pin. But testing continuity across those pins doesn't give an expected 0 reading, but rather some more megaohms range.
The VFD itself also has a few boards: two side boards with weird modules I have no idea about, and two boards full of tiny tiny transistors.



To summarize, I am inclined to think the digital side of things works fine, but I don't know the protocol to communicate with it. Before I go full force into analyzing this bunch of logic gates, I want to see if the VFD tube itself is working.
My current hypothesis is:
1. It works, I've just been plugging the wrong voltages into it (e.g. should have given the pins 12V instead of Ground)
2. It works, but disabled by the drive board on a more fundamental level than just not outputting to the cathodes. The transistor contraption in the bottom right corner does indeed control a 12V supply to a negative side of a diode, which has the positive side going somewhere to the VFD. But normally it is open, thus the negative side of the diode is pulled down to Gnd, so current from the VFD must flow if it wanted to?
3. 12V is too big for this thing and I've already destroyed it. (Because when you assume, you make an
ass of
u and
me) — I don't think that's realistic? I don't see any boost converters on the board and a VFD of that size would most certainly not run on 5 volts.
4. The 12V rail should be negative in reference to ground. Well in such case the axial capacitor in the top right of the drive board will end up being in reverse polarity and eventually explode :-) That capacitor is also rated 1uF 250V so maybe...
5. 12V is too
low for this thing and I need to go higher. Well, I tried 19V, nothing changed, still the same 5mA draw and that's it. For something even higher I'd have to invest in a bench PSU which I'd rather not do unless I know this is the way. Also I presume they wanted, given the 8080 on the original logic board, to test the VFD with a PC during development, hence the Molex power connector? So I would expect it to be 12V, but also a matching connector does not always mean matching voltages...
So the question is, am I doing something wrong and what could be missing? I feel like it's something pretty simple. Would be lovely to get this thing running and put it to use in a project I'm doing right now.
P.S. If anyone knows some easy helpful tools for tracing schematics of such things filled with 74 series logic, hints are much appreciated.
P.P.S. Also hints on how to make those imgur pictures smaller are much appreciated — I ran out of attachment space, so had to put the photos there.
Also, keywords off the PCBs for those googling in case someone has a similar board in the future:
* Morio Denki 6M06056
* Mitsubishi MA7446-01
* MD-24T-ADT (2) 8201
* MD 16101DS-CONT82 06