Scrubbed the entire board, and checked for any cracked solder joints? You can also replace the little electrolytic capacitor in there, normally I use whatever tantalum chip I can find that has a rating over 5V, and typically those are 47 to 100uF, which still allows the case to close. Check with your phone the IR LED is providing light, probably best done by pointing at a mirror on a far wall, and seeing if the brightness is comparable to the output of a similar remote transmitter. Transplant the LED from a dead or surplus remote into the weak one, as the IR LED's do degrade, and moisture wicking up the interface to the leads can cause issues.
Otherwise Chinese shop, and get universal remote, and program it, normally by putting into find mode and holding down power button till TV turns off for a lot of those remote replacements. Under $5 for the remote that can emulate 5 meeeelllion TV sets and other electronics, and then remove batteries from original for when you need the function buttons.