A friend of mine has recently had the a$$ blown out of his tv. On the secondary side three caps had exploded and I'm guessing went short. I don't have an ESR meter or an LCR to have measured them with, but the magic smoke escaped for sure. I got those three caps replaced, rated 35v, 470uF and a couple 680uF. Replaced them all with 35v rated 680's, which according to one of Dave's repair vids, should be fine to go higher capacitance. Got it back together and it still didn't work. Pulled apart one last time and measured some 252 packaged p-channel mosfets labeled "apm4050b". They looked okay but the board underneath in that area was stained brown and on the underside are two heat sinks for them. Did some in-circuit measurements of them and got continuity between the big drain tab and everything else. They must be shot right? Well the only datasheet I can find on these things lists negative voltage specs. How would I source new parts for these? I've checked around digikey and the search doesn't list negative voltages. Just trying to save my buddy some cash shelling out for a new tv and learn something about repair at the same time. Might even get a new soldering iron out of the deal XD
Here is a link to the only datasheet I could find for that part number.
http://www.datasheetbay.com/pdf/1107191/APM4050BPU.html Thanks for taking the time to read this wall of text folks, cheers!
edit:
FDD4685 seems to be a close match.
Except that the Rds is at least 16 times higher but will still work [
if that is the smoking gun].
I would actually suggest salvage pmos from junk board for trial first because I don't endorse trial and error repair fixes anyway. Don't need to go all out to look for few cents component for it now.
Thank you for the responses. Yes, I'd rather know more about repairing TV's before actually doing it, but what's the fun in that?
Before I waste my friends money, I'll check my voltages for sure. Since drain is common I should have a lower voltage on the gate than the source right? Also, how can you tell it's logic level?
I am sorry but I think you should first discover why 3 capacitors in the secondary would explode before anything else otherwise you would be searching and buying in vain.
And if 3 capacitors really exploded, it wouldn't be just simple voltage measurement.
But I think there is distinction between wanting to repair versus having fun, I am more incline to think the latter.
So have fun discovering
A bit of both really, you're right. Saying they exploded was a bit of an over statement I guess. They had either just bulged at the top, or had semi-punctured the vent. Other than that and the stained, over heated looking board, I didn't see any thing too obvious.
edit:
FDD4685 seems to be a close match.
Except that the Rds is at least 16 times higher but will still work [if that is the smoking gun].
fdd4685 datasheet (
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/149/FDD4685-1007311.pdf)
Rds(on) = 27mOhm Vgs=-10v
Rds(on) = 35mOhm Vgs=-4.5v
APM4050BPU datasheet(
http://www.1mos.com/upload/file/SINOPOWER/APM4050BPU.pdf)
Rds(on) = 33mOhm Vgs=-10v
Rds(on) = 59mOhm Vgs=-4.5v
The fdd4685 has smoller Rds(on) than the APM4050BPU. not 16 times higher.
Am i missing something Armadillo?
Also, how can you tell it's logic level?
It will be mentioned in the datasheet , at the beginning . But some times they don't. Then the only clue is when at the first page of the datasheet , you will see 2 values for Rds(on) . One at 10v and another for 4,5v (or 5v). Then the mosfet is a logic level .
its the same datasheet .But datasheetbay.com shows to you an html version . the conversion program (pdf->html) couldn't understand the greek leter
and put in place the letter 'w' .
Check whatever drives the mosfet too, since the mosfet shorted, the driver is probably bad, unless you got lucky and there's a gate resistor that went open.
So is the FDD4685 compatible or not? I have the same problem. I have 2 blown mosfets APM4050B & APM4030B. I also had 3 blown caps but replacing them did not fix the TV. I am putting this TV back together until I get parts.
That is a typical failure mode of many modern electrolytic capacitors, I've replaced hundreds of bulging/leaking capacitors where nothing else was wrong with the circuit. The discolored PCB is not necessarily an indication of a fault either, lots of components run hot enough in normal operation to discolor the PCB over time.