Using force as last stage of desoldering?

[lpc32]

Is it a bad idea to use some pulling, prying, pushing, as the final stage of desoldering?

I removed a double stacked USB jack and couldn't clean it up enough to be able to remove it without some tugging in multiple directions. Maybe the wick wasn't that great, but I think it would be a problem anyway.

[AmmoJammo]

Its generally how I always remove components.

Things like through hole ICs in old computers (namely the Commodore 64)
Wick as much solder off as I can, then push the ic from side to side, to break the small amount of solder left, or push each pin from the top and bottom to break the solder.

Very rarely will I remove or damage any pads or tracks using this technique.

[Prime73]

I usually add extra solder to cover pins on one side on a component and keep the solder melted with an iron and then pull one side of a component off a board.

[tszaboo]

Once I had a 40 pin IDC type connector that I desperately needed. I desoldered all the pins with the solder sucker. But that sucker didn't come out, somewhere it was always stuck. So I went to the tool case, and I took the tool which is rarely used by the engineer: The hammer. The connector was out (perfect condition) five seconds later.

The other people in the office looked at me funny though. So yes. If the job requires it...

[Psi]

Generally yes, you do need to add some force when desoldering.
But it doesn't take much force to rip pads off the pcb along with the IC, so it's a balancing act.

If you have a proper vacuum desoldering gun however, then force isn't needed as you're able to get all the solder out so the chip just falls/lifts out.

[tautech]

Once I thought solder wick was the best thing since sliced bread, but now I rarely use it.
I find a plunger type solder sucker will do most all I need.

I will second the process that AmmoJammo describes along with a selection of different solder types.
Low temp varieties and different flux types, all leaded of course.

Often I remove all the easy to get solder, then add new to pick up the remaining stubborn solder.
Lead free can be troublesome but I find my process can get through holes quite clean.
The further advantage of adding a low temp solder is to reduce the iron temps required, which reduces the likelihood of PCB damage.
We learn a lot from repairs and salvaging components on how to design and build PCB's for easy service/repair.
 Larger holes especially for anything with more than 2 leads makes for easy repair.

[Rerouter]

same as prime for me, (well similar) for small through-hole stuff, i cover the rows of pins in big globs of solder and by switching back and forth it happily pulls straight out,

for bigger things (think Motorola 68000 CPU, a 64 pin wide format DIP) i tend to preheat the board on both sides around the chip with my hot air gun, to actually pack heat into the component and board, then focus it on just the pins and it lifts out just fine,

[theatrus]

I've hung, via clamps or adhesives, something heavy (wrench, solder spool, etc) from the part while heating with hot air.

[lpc32]

...keep the solder melted with an iron and then pull one side of a component off a board.

Do you do that with multipin parts as well?

I find a plunger type solder sucker will do most all I need.

No problems with the final thin layer of randomly spread solder? Seems more difficult to vacuum because you need to be right on it, plus fully flush on the board.

different flux types

What different fluxes, and to what end?

for bigger things ... preheat the board on both sides around the chip with my hot air gun

Any specific target temperature?

The hammer. The connector was out (perfect condition) five seconds later.

The question is, what about the board?

Psi: I don't do it often enough to warrant buying a desoldering gun. But I wonder if those cheap $10-15 things might still be useful.

[pickle9000]

This is a chinese knockoff of a Soldapullit they work excellent.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GT-Cool-Antistatic-Vacumme-Desoldering-Pump-Sucker-Solder-Irons-removal-Tool-CA-/161347449557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item25910eb2d5

As with any tool you need to practice, try removing 20 chips and you will get the hang of it. Remember solder is your friend. Retin, resolder, suck always in that order. Push on the pin (sideways) after sucking to ensure it is free, if you don't you may pull out the thru-hole.

If you can afford it a board preheater is a fantastic addition to any shop and help during reflow and removal.

[Rasz]

get yourself a hotair, no need to suck any solder when you can melt all of it at once

pulling is fine if you know where to pull, otherwise you can rip legs, break plastic and take off whole pads