Author Topic: VICTOR 6056B CLAMP METER SCHEMATIC anyone ?  (Read 1451 times)

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Offline PKTKSTopic starter

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VICTOR 6056B CLAMP METER SCHEMATIC anyone ?
« on: May 26, 2018, 01:37:07 pm »

Hello folks.

Yet another crappy TANTALUM CAPACITOR should have gone wild.

This time there is no "exploded" or black CAP to make things easy.

Schematic will help a lot if any available or even partial BAT INPUT

Thanks a lot in advance any help

Paul
 

Offline PKTKSTopic starter

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Re: VICTOR 6056B CLAMP METER SCHEMATIC anyone ?
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2018, 02:29:46 pm »

OK folks.. cheapos are hard to find parts and specs.

Here is the thing dismantled.

COB on board and some chips hard to find any reference

Paul
 

Offline PKTKSTopic starter

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Re: VICTOR 6056B CLAMP METER SCHEMATIC anyone ?
« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2018, 02:31:56 pm »

It  was "DEAD" with some HOT AREA near a SOT23 package
marked V1PH  which by the way I found absolute nothing about ...

Judging the marked resistors and huge CAP that may be an LDO

By HOT I mean HOT.
 

Offline PKTKSTopic starter

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Re: VICTOR 6056B CLAMP METER SCHEMATIC anyone ?
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2018, 02:34:55 pm »

After testing the huge 220uF 16V CAP and the transistors near by
and a reflow of that area..

The thing  turns on but not properly.

The V1PH chip has gone from nothing (VERY HOT) to around 3V
which i have no clue if it is the proper output.

At least it is not hot anymore.  But the reflow was not enough
 

Offline PKTKSTopic starter

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Re: VICTOR 6056B CLAMP METER SCHEMATIC anyone ?
« Reply #4 on: May 28, 2018, 02:40:33 pm »
If  anyone has any clue about that  V1PH chip
please  post some reference.

It may help to find a suitable replacement.

Also that chip marked TI  68 i333  does not fit anything anywhere.

The rest is more or less easy to find

Paul
« Last Edit: May 28, 2018, 02:45:44 pm by PKTKS »
 

Offline PKTKSTopic starter

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Re: VICTOR 6056B CLAMP METER SCHEMATIC anyone ?
« Reply #5 on: May 31, 2018, 03:44:31 pm »
For the record:
- the thing is a cheapo - but for the money if you ask - it is OK
- problem is: if you sum a cheap but solid design WITH LEAD FREE SOLDER...
- what do you get?  a CRAPPY LEAD FREE SOLDER cheapo.
- several lead free solder joints were just CRAP.  I mean CRAP.

After reflow some other joints and arranging the ROTARY SWITCH
which is not all that solid good...

The thing is working properly. Even that V1PH which BTW is indeed a 3.3V LDO

Summary:
- For 30/35 U$  an AC/DC CLAMP capable of 1000Amps  is bargain
- Even if you have to reflow some crappy parts of the cheap crappy LEAD-FREE PCB

It is solid - it has no internal fuse (assumed that all job is in the clamp)
- protection is left to the MOV and PTC

with BONUS of a relative OK TrueRMS voltmeter and the usual DMM goodies

BARGAIN.
If you need a 1000A AC/DC clamp costing just U$30 box - it may be worthy

Paul
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 11:35:09 am by PKTKS »
 


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