Standard wrench and standard element. Be sure to have a new seal for the element on hand, and be aware that the cheap wrenches can and do split on some older elements. Hard water area probably the anode is still usable, they go fast in soft water, the hard water areas provide a nice film over the piping and element, which will have a nice brown crud film on it and will be missing a large chunk where it blew apart.
When you have it out, drain off the water out of the bottom, using a hosepipe as a syphon, and if not possible and you have a large wet and dry vacuum use it as well to get the crud ( which will look like tea) out of the tank. When you have gotten the old element out, place a finger inside and feel for splits in the glass coat, and for any rust near there. Any splits, or big rust areas, time to buy a new tank ( buy the same identical model, much easier to put it in again as the mountings, piping and fittings will be in the same location and thus no plumbing) and swap it out.
I have done that before, got the same model tank, and just had to undo the old and put the new in. Then 2 years later I had to drain it to fix a leaking drain tap, by replacing it with a new one. Tank was fine on the inside, but the bottom was deep with sediment, despite having a 100 micron water filter feeding it. Swapped with a 10 micron one before filling it again, not going to have tea now in it.
The 40 year old gravity tank elsewhere also sprung a leak, so took it out, took to the manufacturer ( still in business, and local to me) and they refurbished it, new inner copper tank, new element and thermostat and new filling valve, and I hung it back a week later on the same bolts, connected the pipes to the tank with some new olives and nuts, connected power to it and filled it up again. Half the price of a new one, and a quarter the price of installing a pressure geyser. which likely would have popped all the old sweated joints as well.