What capacitor formfactor is this?

[Stonent]

They resemble diodes.  If you look at them from the side you see it is a small radial capacitor slipped inside a plastic sheath with the leads splayed outward at about a 45 degree angle and then flat so it can surface mount.

Also there was one capacitor marked R47 50V.  I assume it means 47uF.  I've just never seen R used outside of resistors.

[singapol]

Those red circled are capacitors and if they have leads then they are thruhole types.
If a cap is marked R47 50V then it means 0.47uf as they use "R" in front to mean a decimal point as it is too small to be seen if printed. If it is 47R = 47 just as in resistor markings. A capacitance meter will quickly confirm this value.

[T3sl4co1l]

SEGA??!  Is this from a Dreamcast?  Don't think it's from a Genesis/Megadrive, that had an adapter as I recall.

Then again maybe it's a handheld?  You usually only see low profile caps like that where they need the space.

Tim

[poot36]

This is a SEGA GameGear.  Just replace the bad caps with standard axial through hole caps folded over to fit.  The original caps are surface mount and are glued to the PCB.  There is a list of the caps you will need if you search online for GameGear cap kit.  Just make sure to match the revision of your board up to the list for the correct caps.  Just don't be an idiot like me and try to place the PCB back in the housing without inserting the volume and contrast pots first or you will snap the plastic knobs off!  Don't forgot the caps on the audio output board as well.

[wraper]

Also there was one capacitor marked R47 50V.  I assume it means 47uF.  I've just never seen R used outside of resistors.

Most likely they are 0.47uF

[stmdude]

This is a SEGA GameGear.  Just replace the bad caps with standard axial through hole caps folded over to fit.  The original caps are surface mount and are glued to the PCB.  There is a list of the caps you will need if you search online for GameGear cap kit.  Just make sure to match the revision of your board up to the list for the correct caps.  Just don't be an idiot like me and try to place the PCB back in the housing without inserting the volume and contrast pots first or you will snap the plastic knobs off!  Don't forgot the caps on the audio output board as well.

100% agree. I've brought back a dozen GameGears to life this way.

Actually, there's the third boards as well (the power-board) that needs new caps as well.

Also, make sure you inspect for corrosion caused by leaking batteries. Quite common on the GameGears.

Since you already have it apart, the cartridge connector could probably do with a cleaning as well.

I don't know if the package has an official name, but as you figured out, they're just regular electrolytics in a sleeve. The reason for this is so that the pick-and-place machines of yore could place them.

Bonus content: List to the aforementioned capacitor list(s)
http://console5.com/wiki/Game_Gear#Capacitor_Lists

[Stonent]

Yeah it is a gamegear.  I originally bought it as as-is not working with the thought of gutting it and using it for an RPi project, but then found out the games are extremely cheap for it and thought about repairing it.

I know about soldering the TH caps on top, I was just curious if there was an official formfactor name for these types of caps. 

The problem it is having is when it comes on, the screen lights up and I if I play with the contrast I can see a dark bar go down the screen.  Then the pixels slowly fade to mostly black.

Putting a game in it does no better.  There's also no apparent sound, but I've heard that's all cap related from my research.  Several of the caps on the main board do look to have a bit of crust on the solder pads.

(This picture was not of my unit, I just googled it)  Mine is the same series though.  A 2 ASIC variety.

[stmdude]

The problem it is having is when it comes on, the screen lights up and I if I play with the contrast I can see a dark bar go down the screen.  Then the pixels slowly fade to mostly black.

Putting a game in it does no better.  There's also no apparent sound, but I've heard that's all cap related from my research.  Several of the caps on the main board do look to have a bit of crust on the solder pads.

Sure sounds like caps to me.

Oh, and when you're in there and have swapped out all the caps, you'll be tempted to test it before it's completely assembled.  When you do, make sure you don't touch the contacts for (or circuitry associated with) the florescent tube that does backlight duties. It's >100V AC, and it hurts..